1966 Fury 4 speed/clutch linkage questions

Ross, I dont have the time nor energy to explain the science behind how and why the heavy spring needs to be removed when converting to the diaphragm style pressure plate.
I would suggest as you suggested that anyone interested should phone Wayne at Brewers. He can explain it quick and simple.
No probs :)

I wasn't referring to the elimination of the heavy overcentre spring when using the McLeod pressure plate style clutch that has been described, but more of the fact of what the original poster found when trying to step through the problems in his clutch pedal linkage.

Agreed, Brewers is the place to get all of the information and perhaps all the parts he needs to fix whatever the issues turn out to be.
My poor memory cells are fading fast but I'll give it a shot since I had a 66 Fury 4 spd.

View attachment 537405
Wow, there's a way-back car.
I remember sending you a bunch of pics and emails back on that project.

Looks like lots of good advice already posted.
@12BNH - I have an original 65 SF 4-speed. If the above info doesn't solve you, LMK and I'll see what pics I have.
Thanks again for the info, all. I'll take a look at the paperwork and receipts to see if I can find what parts they used when they replaced the clutch. I have no idea as far as what kind of pressure plate. I'm going to get into it more this weekend, maybe I can get some pictures showing the way it's rigged up. If so I'll post them here. I will definitely be hitting up Brewer's for info as well.
This is the borg and beck style.
You'll see 3 "release fingers"

This is diaphragm type.
If you remove the inspection cover off bottom of bellhousing you will see what you have.
You don't want the heavy spring with this kind.

If your over-center spring is already removed, a diaphragm clutch may be the easier choice, but I prefer the B&B style. Probably boils down to convenience and personal preference. I replaced mine this winter and tried to use the plastic alignment tool supplied with the kit. The tool was warped and useless. I reverted to using a spare drive pinion which works perfectly. Just a few thoughts. Lindsay
Over the years I've tried to get the wife (and others outside our hobby) to understand it's not *always* about cars.
Many times it's merely about people.
3. The Z bars is unique to both the 3 spd and the 4 spd. You can modify a B body z bar but you'll need to reach out to somebody with the dimensions.
I could be wrong, but in my research what I believe is diffrent between the 4 speed and some 3 speed z bars is some of the 3 speed had the reverse lockout. Those had the bigger tab on the z bar for the lockout bar to attach to. Not all 3 speeds had it.
As far as I know there wasn't any "reverse lockout" in 66
Slant 6 ZZZ bar is longer, but can be shortened to work on v8.
Big block and small block z is same length.

Keep in mind that Stan's is longer
I stand corrected.
According to service manual
The column shifted 3 speed appears to have a reverse lookout mechanism.
The 4 speed does not have reverse lockout.
My experience with 3 on tree is limited and I plan to keep it that way
Umm... my 4 speed 66 Monaco has Inland shifter with lockout...
Ross, by any chance are you referring to the T fork thing that is directly below the ball on the shifter handle?

I could be wrong, but in my research what I believe is diffrent between the 4 speed and some 3 speed z bars is some of the 3 speed had the reverse lockout. Those had the bigger tab on the z bar for the lockout bar to attach to. Not all 3 speeds had it.
Maybe I should have been more clear. I was referring to the reverse lockout that is used in conjunction with shifter to trans linkage, as 65 copcar was referring to

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Yes - T handle below the shift knob. A braided cable runs from the T handle down to the trans, and controls a spring loaded reverse lockout mechanism.
Well guys I finally had a chance to get in and take a look now that I knew what to look for....and I was TOTALLY wrong. The over-center spring IS installed, but the Z bar is not installed properly. It looks like it is clocked forward of where is should be so the over-center spring only has about 1/2 the amount of travel it should. It's like they installed the Z bar with it turned forward about 45 degrees of where it should be, if that makes sense. I don't understand why other than they just thought that's how it should be. I also can't figure out why they went to the trouble of welding a tab to the z bar to add another spring to bring the clutch pedal back up. Seems like more work than just doing it the right way? I'm definitely going to have to bring it to a shop that knows how to do this right, it is beyond my level. There may be more to it other than the Z bar but it sure looks like that's the main source of the issues from what I can see. As I mentioned before I don't have any experience with 4 speeds so I am about as far from an expert as it gets with this.
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Perhaps we've answered it, but in my contemplation there would be no lockout stuff on the Z-bar, that does only the clutch, and is oblivious to what the trans shifter is doing.
The intention of reverse lockout is to prevent shifting into reverse accidentally when intending a different forward gear, by requiring it to be a more intentional act. Which is done at the shifter.

I pirated this 6cyl/3-on-tree Z-bar many years ago, and aside from length, I notice no difference between it and a V8 4-speed bar.