1967 Imperial Amp Gauge

RKC

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Is there any way to test the amp gauge that is in the cluster and out of the car and on my work bench? Thanks!
 
First test is simple continuity check. There should be continuity between the two terminals.

Second test would be to connect a car battery to one ammeter terminal and a headlight to the other terminal. Ground from battery to other headlight terminal. There should be some ammeter movement when you hook this up... But! it will depend on which terminals went to the battery. In other words, it may show charge or discharge. That's not a bad thing though! Switch the terminals and the ammeter will read the other direction. Want to see more movement? Connect a second headlight.

Doing this will test operation, but it would be hard to figure out if it's accurate or not. Since there really isn't any markings, I don't see as it's a big deal.
 
Might the "+" top mark be similar to the max output from the alternators available those model years?
 
Might the "+" top mark be similar to the max output from the alternators available those model years?
I really don't know, but when you look at aftermarket ammeters, 50 or 60 amps seems to be the maximum reading, so that kind of aligns with that.

When cars got more electrical with more current draw, they started using a shunt type ammeter that can handle more current. 1972??
 
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