1969 Imperial progress thread

[Big_John]

I seam sealed the entire car, but you can't reach inside the trunk lid with normal seam sealer.

According to the manufacturer, this foam is designed for this application and doesn't have any strength to push metal apart.

I drilled holes on the bottom of the lid to insert the foam application hose and filled the support ribs with foam. And exactly along these ribs on the bottom is the metal lower now...
View attachment 628798

My bet is that the foam got hot and expanded as it catalyzed, stuck to the sheet metal, then shrunk as it cooled.

I can't help but wonder if it's supposed to be used in enclosed areas... Or in areas that have to be straight. You have more sheet metal in that deck lid than any new car... and the sheet metal is flat with no curve to strengthen it.... It's also softer and thicker than new cars. In other words, this might have worked great on a floor panel in a new Toyota, but not that football field size deck lid.

 

[65Port]

According to the manufacturer, this foam is designed for this application and doesn't have any strength to push metal apart.

Did you check with a straight edge prior to application? Maybe the panel was that way originally? Maybe it needs a couple of hot/cold cycles to even out. I am not sure how far I would go to remedy that. Unless the German inspection requires panel checks with a straight edge to pass. : )

 

[300rag]

Did you check with a straight edge prior to application? Maybe the panel was that way originally? Maybe it needs a couple of hot/cold cycles to even out. I am not sure how far I would go to remedy that. Unless the German inspection requires panel checks with a straight edge to pass. : )

The German inspector in charge of reflection quality is the only one that matters.

 

[Boydsdodge]

Well, **** just hit the fan...... I had to do something about the rattling and wobbling of the outer skin on the Hood and Trunk Lid. The original sealer had been washed out in the rust and paint removal bath.
After finding a product that sounded just like what I needed, I contacted the manufacturer and asked them if it's the right stuff for my particular case and they said yes, their product is made exactly for this application.

Well, I guess not, since it somehow shrunk and pulled the sheet metal down with it where the structulal braces are on the inside................... . . . . . . .

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I agree with the fire ball head.

 

[Samplingman]

Did you check with a straight edge prior to application? Maybe the panel was that way originally?

I was thinking this same thing. My hood was perfect before the mobil blaster warped the hell out of it. I forgot that the trunk lid is pretty much sealed. Maybe you can get away with a skim coat?

 

[commando1]

Fix-A-Dent?
Go in from the underside a pop it out?

 

[vdk2010]

My bet is that the foam got hot and expanded as it catalyzed, stuck to the sheet metal, then shrunk as it cooled.

I can't help but wonder if it's supposed to be used in enclosed areas... Or in areas that have to be straight. You have more sheet metal in that deck lid than any new car... and the sheet metal is flat with no curve to strengthen it.... It's also softer and thicker than new cars. In other words, this might have worked great on a floor panel in a new Toyota, but not that football field size deck lid.

After mixing the two components and shaking the can, it got pretty warm, so that would be a possibility.

The can reads:
PETEC Karo-Foam is a two-component bodywork foam for professional accident repair, repair and restoration of body parts. Karo foam adheres to metal surfaces, wood ...
Bodywork and add-on parts such as sills, hoods, doors, A, B and C pillars, trunk lids, roof and floor sections as well as rear and side panels can be filled, padded and thus protected against vibrations and contact corrosion. The foam is also ideal for eliminating and damping sound, noise and noises in cavities and on the bodywork.

That's exactly what I wanted. And I still talked to a process engineer and he ensured me that it's good for my application. Unfortunately, that was everything I could do and still something obviously went wrong.

Now I have to deal with it by using bondo to correct it. And I hate doing that because there is no body filler on the car at all so far.

 

[vdk2010]

Did you check with a straight edge prior to application? Maybe the panel was that way originally? Maybe it needs a couple of hot/cold cycles to even out. I am not sure how far I would go to remedy that. Unless the German inspection requires panel checks with a straight edge to pass. : )

Yes, my body man repaired and straighten the trunk lid. It was fine before using the foam.

The only inspector that counts is the guy who builds the car. And as I heard, he is picky. ;)

 

[vdk2010]

The German inspector in charge of reflection quality is the only one that matters.

 

[vdk2010]

I was thinking this same thing. My hood was perfect before the mobil blaster warped the hell out of it. I forgot that the trunk lid is pretty much sealed. Maybe you can get away with a skim coat?

My painter will do its best to correct it and probably use bondo to straighten it. :/

 

[vdk2010]

Fix-A-Dent?
Go in from the underside a pop it out?

Unfortunately, that's not possible because all cavities are filled with foam now...

 

[Boydsdodge]

My painter will do its best to correct it and probably use bondo to straighten it. :/

Sad

 

[300rag]

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Yup. That's the one.

 

[3C's & a D?]

That is unfortunate. Particularly when you did all you could to make sure it was the right product. To think you were worried about it expanding too much, which is a valid concern, and it ends up doing the opposite! Very frustrating. Acetone will dissolve most foam in a hurry. Could place the trunk lid upside down and pour some in to attack the upper surface of the foam. Acetone will also strip primer too, of course. It would be a good idea to test a small batch before attempting.

 

[Boydsdodge]

That is unfortunate. Particularly when you did all you could to make sure it was the right product. To think you were worried about it expanding too much, which is a valid concern, and it ends up doing the opposite! Very frustrating. Acetone will dissolve most foam in a hurry. Could place the trunk lid upside down and pour some in to attack the upper surface of the foam. Acetone will also strip primer too, of course. It would be a good idea to test a small batch before attempting.

I like this idea over bondo.

 

[PH27L7]

Isn't there some space between the sandwich of the inner frame & outer sheet metal? That's the way all my cars are built. Depending on how much space there is & how hard the material, you may be able to just physically cut & release. On one of my cars, a previous owner removed the original caulk material on the hood which caused it to flutter at speed. I bought some 3M stuff & injected it in the spaces where the original material was. While it doesn't look like the original, it solved the problem & did not expand or contract which 3M claimed in their specs.
Your work to date is awesome.

 

[mopar preferred]

This is the way Mother did it. Globs of dum-dum putty like stuff.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Isn't there some space between the sandwich of the inner frame & outer sheet metal? That's the way all my cars are built. Depending on how much space there is & how hard the material, you may be able to just physically cut & release. On one of my cars, a previous owner removed the original caulk material on the hood which caused it to flutter at speed. I bought some 3M stuff & injected it in the spaces where the original material was. While it doesn't look like the original, it solved the problem & did not expand or contract which 3M claimed in their specs.
Your work to date is awesome.


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This is the way Mother did it. Globs of dum-dum putty like stuff.

There is no way of redoing it this way on a 69 as the inside panel has no openings/cutouts, it is a FULL panel.


Alan

 

[mopar preferred]

Oh, ouch! I missed that, sorry.

 

[vdk2010]

That is unfortunate. Particularly when you did all you could to make sure it was the right product. To think you were worried about it expanding too much, which is a valid concern, and it ends up doing the opposite! Very frustrating. Acetone will dissolve most foam in a hurry. Could place the trunk lid upside down and pour some in to attack the upper surface of the foam. Acetone will also strip primer too, of course. It would be a good idea to test a small batch before attempting.

That was actually a good idea and I did a bunch of testing with foam pieces I've cut off the trunk lid and different solvents this weekend but it was not satisfying at all. Most solvents didn't do anything to the foam other then soaking into it but didn't change the structure of the foam at all.
I had the best results with acetone, but the foam ended up as a sticky, clumpy mass and the acetone residue left a big mess as well. So, unfortunately, that was not successful at all.