NOT MINE 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible - $4,000 - Wolcottville, Indiana

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At the time of posting, This FB ad is 10 hours old.

1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible - $4,000 - Wolcottville, Indiana

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1970 Chrysler 300 convertible needs work (not running )but complete and pretty solid came from California
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Can that car be saved without going bankrupt?
No.
And the people remaining that would are getting fewer and fewer.
 
Can that car be saved without going bankrupt?
No.
And the people remaining that would are getting fewer and fewer.

I don't know. . . If the car is solid, it may be possible to clean it up, get it running and go from there. Seems like its all there. I would love to be able to inspect it in person. . . The way it sits, I think it is an FCBO-certified $2500 car.
 
I started out with a lot worse. Not all of them need to be a #1 car. Besides, $4K is $2500 in 2012 dollars.....
 
Can that car be saved without going bankrupt?
No.
And the people remaining that would are getting fewer and fewer.
I think a lot of us have gotten wiser about projects.

$4k + $15k in body /paint + $3k in mechanical + $3K top and interior +$1k in chrome. That's doing mechanical work yourself and farming out paint/body with no surprises. Double or triple the mechanical and interior prices if you have a pro do them.

Throw a year's worth if nights and weekends at it (minimum) and a 2 or 3 months in paint jail (again minimum) and suddenly that $15k price on a running/driving car that needs a little TLC and a grand or 2 in repairs/restoration makes a hell of a lot more sense.

I'm so upside down in my 300, it bothers me. Even selling it at a premium price, I'd lose my shirt. Its only money and I can't take it with me, so I don't care. But it was still running/driving when I bought it and never more than a days work away from driveable (except while at body shop for 7 weeks). My Barracuda is the same way, except I'm not upside down because it hasn't hit the paint shop (yet).
 
I think a lot of us have gotten wiser about projects.

$4k + $15k in body /paint + $3k in mechanical + $3K top and interior +$1k in chrome. That's doing mechanical work yourself and farming out paint/body with no surprises. Double or triple the mechanical and interior prices if you have a pro do them.

Throw a year's worth if nights and weekends at it (minimum) and a 2 or 3 months in paint jail (again minimum) and suddenly that $15k price on a running/driving car that needs a little TLC and a grand or 2 in repairs/restoration makes a hell of a lot more sense.

I'm so upside down in my 300, it bothers me. Even selling it at a premium price, I'd lose my shirt. Its only money and I can't take it with me, so I don't care. But it was still running/driving when I bought it and never more than a days work away from driveable (except while at body shop for 7 weeks). My Barracuda is the same way, except I'm not upside down because it hasn't hit the paint shop (yet).
You all know what I started with, but it originally only cost me shipping of $350. After 11 years I'm in to it about $10K. The motor and trans is the only Pro work done so far and that was just under $4k. I've got 68 hours logged in sheet metal, and probably another 60 to go, but the only cost is supplies (I did buy a new welder, but I don't count tools in the project cost.) I will have the big stuff blasted and primed next week, hood, fenders and trunk lid for about $1K, but it will save me weeks, and then I'll be making the decision to either paint it myself or hire a shop. I figure as long as I'm under $20K with the build I'm still above water with it, but then again I'm looking at maybe a strong #2 or #3, but that was never a real concern with me.

As long as you could do most of the work yourself I think someone could just get this presentable for under $10k provided the motor is not shot.

So John, how much you want for the 300?

:poke:
 
You all know what I started with, but it originally only cost me shipping of $350. After 11 years I'm in to it about $10K. The motor and trans is the only Pro work done so far and that was just under $4k. I've got 68 hours logged in sheet metal, and probably another 60 to go, but the only cost is supplies (I did buy a new welder, but I don't count tools in the project cost.) I will have the big stuff blasted and primed next week, hood, fenders and trunk lid for about $1K, but it will save me weeks, and then I'll be making the decision to either paint it myself or hire a shop. I figure as long as I'm under $20K with the build I'm still above water with it, but then again I'm looking at maybe a strong #2 or #3, but that was never a real concern with me.

As long as you could do most of the work yourself I think someone could just get this presentable for under $10k provided the motor is not shot.

So John, how much you want for the 300?

:poke:
11 years and counting, all your work and $20k.... Proves what I said.

As far as my car... I'd swap for a nice 300L hardtop with A/C.
 
Bottom line is if you want a nice car without getting dirty, frustrated, broke and possibly divorced buy a done car. If you want the satisfaction of doing it yourself buy that project car and have at it! Yes it's really that simple.
 
Without knowing what the stub and frame rails look like or the condition of the convertible top, I don’t know, but this car doesn’t scare me about completely breaking the bank. If not in a hurry, and are OK with working it during your free time or as a retirement project, it could be just the right car. The body appears to be in good condition and the seller states it’s solid & complete. Too bad they didn’t get pics of the front of the car, mention the condition of the glass or took any interior shots without all the parts covering the seats.
A good cleaning would go a long way to help sell this car, but even at $4K, it doesn’t seem to be that far of a stretch of an asking price knowing it is a convertible, and where C Body prices have gone over the past few years.
I’d say it’s worth a closer look or to have an inspection made It definitely will require a list of new items. My first observation, it will need new armrests, and new door sill plate, which seem to be missing, as well as a steering wheel, but some of us may already have those parts sitting on a shelf. :rolleyes:
 
V5X on the tag, looks like the original stick-on black BSM is still in place. I think this is starting to look like a real survivor. The fact that the boot is not all torn up might even show low mileage. "Not running" could simple mean a dead battery.
 
We can look at pictures all day and until you actually set eyes in it, its all guessing.

It does look like a good project if you want one.
 
Just making some observations of the ad. I'm not a buyer on this 300. But when any c body comes up for sale, and if looking at the posted pics/comments of the seller, that's all we can initially go on. I don't see a lot of rust on this 300. But as you mentioned, they're just pictures. I'd never buy another rusty car. Been there, done that. Never again.
IMO it won't last long on FB. I hope it goes to somebody here and that the buyer doesn't wind up with less than they expected.
 
Half a day cleaning it and staging the pictures to make it look better would pretty much guarantee it selling fast for his price. At least put the back seat in and empty out all the crap.
 
@amazinblue82 — any chance that CM27T0C204411 might tempt you at the right price?

It would .. at the right price.

$4K is too tall based on what I know from this thread. It would need to be running, stopping (not road worthy but NOT an in-op for transport purposes) .. and little to NO underside holes where there should be none.

Thanks for thinking about me ayilar ... but i cannot chase this one as the price would never fit my needs i'd predict :)

hope it finds a good home.
 
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It still has its original blue and yellow plates so it may well be pretty rust free. Besides being a vert, for me it has too few options to be desirable but for some it might be just what they want that way. Plus, it still has its original washer bottle on it that appears to be in nice shape - that must tell you something!

There is no way not to be upside down on any of these remaining cars even without considering one's time in these efforts - that is why I generally sell my cars that are in nice condition overseas. Those folks just seem to have more financial smarts about them and they appreciate what it takes to make these cars really nice. They also enjoy them and show them off regularly. They don't generally waste their time making them nice like I do - they buy them that way.
 
It still has its original blue and yellow plates so it may well be pretty rust free. Besides being a vert, for me it has too few options to be desirable but for some it might be just what they want that way. Plus, it still has its original washer bottle on it that appears to be in nice shape - that must tell you something!

There is no way not to be upside down on any of these remaining cars even without considering one's time in these efforts - that is why I generally sell my cars that are in nice condition overseas. Those folks just seem to have more financial smarts about them and they appreciate what it takes to make these cars really nice. They also enjoy them and show them off regularly. They don't generally waste their time making them nice like I do - they buy them that way.
I can't afford an "all done" car even if the seller is taking a licking. :lol:
 
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