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Same colors that my vert was born with. Too bad, no washer bottle.
Looks like a nice solid example. Good start for someone.
If you gents were seriously wanting this car, what would be your maximum bid? It does appear to be a nice clean vehicle, quite rare nowadays
As we speak, it's at 41-hundred so if I wanted it, I would already be thinking of dropping out. I've been called a cheap bastard, tho, and Im OK with that. Your mileage may vary.
Well past the $2500 mark for most of us here, LOL. $5500-6500 would be a comfortable range, with enough flexibility to fix what it needs and drive. Looks like part of the front left fender was cleaned up. I think a good detailing will bring this one back to life nicely.
I have asked the seller for more detail about the rust near the bottom corners of the back glass, or if there is any water intrusion around the glass. We'll see if he/she responds, but I've found when I ask 'tough' questions like that I usually don't get an answer.
Seller calls this a rust-free car, but I suspect those areas are ready to poke thru.
That one is within driving distance of me, if I had capacity and resources I'd be all over it (except that roof would make me take pause). Hypothetically I'd be willing to go $5-6000, as I'm not seeing any 2dr 300s around here anymore. Also makes me regret selling my U-code 70 300 coupe (near-survivor) back in 2008. This blue one has better colors, my green one had better goodies.
I saw this car at the Belvidere show in 2013 or 2014 and asked if he was interested in selling it. At the time he wasn't, but said he needed at least $3500 for it. He didn't want to give me his number so I gave him mine to call when he was ready to sell. Haven't seen the car since then, but it's likes it's still in the Chicago area.
The car was pretty solid, but I don't remember to top being in the condition the ebay pics show currently.
I'm not looking for one now, but he's already at $4600+. I'd say he's gonna be happy with the sale price anyway.
Run away..... go find a better, undamaged one.......!
Just pickin at ya. This seems like a REALLY nice car.
Here's the response I got on the roof:
"The areas still seem strong but I'm sure will need to be addressed once vinyl top is removed. I wouldn't anticipate a major problem. The last time car was hosed down there were no leaks."
I'm skeptical, not questioning the guy's honesty, but simply because I've seen this rust on some of my cars in the past, and roof rust is almost always worse than it looks. Would definitely want to see those spots in person if I was going to bid on it at this point. (everything has a silver lining though - the good thing about roof rust is you can stand up while you work on it)
Always looking for the upside in everything
I guess I don't need to see this car in person, this pic said everything I'd need to know. BTDT - this roof is gonna have some ugliness to it when that vinyl comes off, and glass is gonna hafta come out to have any chance at fixing it permanently.
But still a good car to give some mild perk-ups and keep dry, though.
It did sell today
$6,000 seems crazy for this car.
Not at all. Well bought IMO. Anyone here the new owner?
Once that vinyl is peeled away Im sure the rust will be worse.. I think $4,000 would be all the money based on that factor. Otherwise a really nice car!
I have had cars with pretty much the same rust, from California no less, - it won't be that bad and the windshield is cracked anyway and has to come out.
My hatred of roofrust comes from the fact that you usually have multiple layers of panels coming together, 2 or 3 layers, all spotwelded together, and it's hard to cut all that cancer out to prevent recurrence. Some of the clips are surely rusted, which makes it tough to get the trim back on properly (unless you take the glass out and replace clips, which this car needs). Then you've got to get the surfaces in the right place so the glass will seal properly afterward. I've used a liquid/brush-on 3M product that is great for that, but it's still a PITA 'cuz you have to use such a tiny brush. And if it's severe enough that you need to weld, now you've got to make sure the interior doesn't get spatter-damaged (or burned!).
The 2 times I've done this I just painted the roof afterward with satin-black Rustoleum, with a 4" sponge roller, which gives a suitable appearance for my needs. 1 car I did only once (the rust was very minimal surface spots and never came back even after 15 years) -- but the 2nd car looked much like this one in the pics and I had to rework portions of it every few years.
My green 70 300 pictured earlier also had some mild spots in the a-pillar, somebody put a new VT over it so it looked OK but at close glance you could tell what was under there. And it also had a rusthole at the bottom corner of the dash, and some of the understructure at the package shelf and trunk jamb had rusted also. So even though the seller of the blue car said no apparent water leaks, that water can quietly get in and run to invisible places and cause very unexpected/untypical damage. And that car had nice shifter and TS stalks, none of the outward signs of a car that had moisture inside it.
So IMO a guy could spend a lot of effort to fix that roof, and afterward the car isn't really going to look much better, drive any better, or be worth any more. Like fixing a cracked foundation in a house, you can't fully admire your accomplishment afterward...
So I pass on roofrust unless the car is really special, or really cheap, and this car is neither in the grand scheme. If it was a TNT car I would feel differently.
My body/paint guy is a pro and he has fixed rust just like this car for a couple of mine and it required fairly little effort (in both cases the headliner and vinyl top needed replacement anyway and the windshield and rear window also came out just to make sure there was no rust around the window channels as well, and new clips were installed). With cars this old and untouched, it is very likely that there will be some repair of rust holes needed around the window channels front and rear even when there is no other evidence of any rust at all, even with California cars. I expect that on an original car and I prefer to buy original cars that are pretty much untouched or unrestored by someone else, as I usually restore them myself to meet my desire to make them like new. I have not had a problem come back because my body/paint guy always cuts out any rust fully and welds in new patches or whatever else is needed and even fashions sections of new window channels. And the guy I use also has replaced entire roofs with replacement ones when I really liked the car I had and was going through it anyway (he drills out all the spot welds and replaces the entire roof almost when needed and makes sure it looks factory when done). I still believe this car is well worth the money even with the rust issues that are visible, and even those that are not so visible. This is a rare car anymore that is in very good overall condition and worth the money to put into it yet to restore it more. If you don't really like these cars a lot, then it will not be a good buy to you I guess. One could fix the roof on this car very well for a grand or two, and sell it to Europe and still make money. But the guys in Europe want to buy from sellers they know and can trust, before they shell out the money.