1970 Plymouth Fury Convertible build

[65sporty]

Your A/C thing you are questioning is the receiver/drier. Is the drier new? Are you going to use the A/C? It is filled with desiccant to keep moisture out of the system. If it's new it needs to be sealed off, if it's old it needs to be replaced when the A/C is put into service.
I agree with you about the master, it looks unhappy with all the love the rest of the car is getting

 

[Zephyr]

Thanks, for the reply. The drier is not new - it's the old one, cleaned up and painted. So do you have to buy the whole unit or is it something that gets refilled?

 

[cantflip]

Thanks, for the reply. The drier is not new - it's the old one, cleaned up and painted. So do you have to buy the whole unit or is it something that gets refilled?

Replacement... but they're cheap and available at local parts stores on this side of the universe.

 

[Zephyr]

And I painted it and everything! Oh, well. I'll be visiting your side of the universe in August, when you say "local parts stores" do you mean like Napa/OReilly/Pep Boys/etc or something a little more specialist? Or is this a generic part kind of deal?

Also, anyone out there got a spare steering wheel for one of these?

 

[cantflip]

And I painted it and everything! Oh, well. I'll be visiting your side of the universe in August, when you say "local parts stores" do you mean like Napa/OReilly/Pep Boys/etc or something a little more specialist? Or is this a generic part kind of deal?

Also, anyone out there got a spare steering wheel for one of these?

All of the above... easy to get here. The steering wheel, maybe not so much.

 

[Zephyr]

Thanks, cantflip.

I pulled the master cylinder and it's not pretty behind!

Looks like there was foam sandwiched in that spacer that's disintegrated over the years.

For unfathomable reasons, it turns out a complete new master cylinder is £10 cheaper than a rebuild kit.Looks like I'm cleaning up the servo first.

I also cleaned the fender tag. First go with a little media blaster gun.

I can read it without glasses or flipping it over now! Anyone know what the 16 at the top means?

Went to the drag strip at the weekend and noticed a trio of Furies:

I recently had a key split in two on me, fortunately not in the lock and it made me think about the importance of having a spare (I didn't, it was a Chevy and it was blocking other stuff in on the drive). I've only got one set for the Fury, so I figured I might try to get copies when I'm over in August. Can I just walk into a regular key cutting shop and get copies there and then? Do I need anything to establish ownership of the car?

 

[rags]

you own the key. 'nuff said.

 

[1970cat]

glad someone finally bought this one. looks like a nice car

 

[Zephyr]

Before we go any further, could someone reassure me that this isn't a part from my Fury please? I don't think it is, but it's turned up at the barn where the welding was done and no one knows what it's from. It's definitely an engine oil cooler and I don't remember taking one off, but I didn't do all the disassembly. I'm 99% sure it's not from the Fury.

So partly I've been rust removing and painting, this time behind the servo:

I've also been busy in the passenger foot-well:

At this point I'm eyeing up the various bits of heater and A/C that I've been tripping over for the last few months and wondering if they could go back on at this point. Before the rainy season started, I did connect the heater matrix up to a garden hosepipe and it didn't leak. I know that may change when it gets hot, but something has to go easily, right?

What's holding me back is uncertainty about whether I leave that dynaliner as it is or whether something needs to go over the top of it. It's a foam that looks like it might hold water - maybe I should stick something smooth, black and waterproof over it? I'm also wondering how high the carpet goes?

Speaking of carpets, can anyone recommend a good place to get a carpet set? So far I've found these guys: 65-73 Plymouth Fury Carpet 2 Door Automatic and Carpet Set Molded Carpet Set - Hydro-E-Lectric, but I rather put my faith in a recommendation from someone on here. So, any recommendations?

Thanks for watching.

 

[Fury440]

Before we go any further, could someone reassure me that this isn't a part from my Fury please? I don't think it is, but it's turned up at the barn where the welding was done and no one knows what it's from. It's definitely an engine oil cooler and I don't remember taking one off, but I didn't do all the disassembly. I'm 99% sure it's not from the Fury.
View attachment 130703

So partly I've been rust removing and painting, this time behind the servo:
View attachment 130707

I've also been busy in the passenger foot-well:
View attachment 130708

At this point I'm eyeing up the various bits of heater and A/C that I've been tripping over for the last few months and wondering if they could go back on at this point. Before the rainy season started, I did connect the heater matrix up to a garden hosepipe and it didn't leak. I know that may change when it gets hot, but something has to go easily, right?
View attachment 130709

What's holding me back is uncertainty about whether I leave that dynaliner as it is or whether something needs to go over the top of it. It's a foam that looks like it might hold water - maybe I should stick something smooth, black and waterproof over it? I'm also wondering how high the carpet goes?

Speaking of carpets, can anyone recommend a good place to get a carpet set? So far I've found these guys: 65-73 Plymouth Fury Carpet 2 Door Automatic and Carpet Set Molded Carpet Set - Hydro-E-Lectric, but I rather put my faith in a recommendation from someone on here. So, any recommendations?

Thanks for watching.

I bought my carpet from Legendary in about 2000 for $159 USD, probably more expensive now. Two points to consider when installing the carpet. Install the front section far enough up the firewall so that people sitting in the rear seat can't see bare, uncarpeted firewall. Mine is about an inch too low and it bugs me every time I look at it. Secondly when the rear section is installed, make sure the little space between the front corner of the bench seat and the side panel gets covered. It's a good idea to temporarily install the rear bench to sit on while checking the firewall view above and to mark a chalk line around the base of the bench to guide with carpet positioning. I didn't notice the problem until too late and had to sew in a small piece of scrap.

As far as the floor is concerned, after rust removal, my floor was coated with POR-15 to make it waterproof. All seams were well sealed with a black mastic. I didn't go crazy with waterproofing because the car will never see ice/snow/slush covered boots and will seldom even see rain. That being said, couple weeks ago I was at a show'n shine when it started to rain and my top refused to go up. Murphy's Laws at work!

 

[Jeff]

Speaking of carpets, can anyone recommend a good place to get a carpet set? So far I've found these guys: 65-73 Plymouth Fury Carpet 2 Door Automatic and Carpet Set Molded Carpet Set - Hydro-E-Lectric, but I rather put my faith in a recommendation from someone on here. So, any recommendations?

Thanks for watching.

Stock Interiors gets carpet from ACC, which only has a mold for the Chrysler C body. Trim Parts makes its own carpet but also only has a mold for the Chrysler C Body. Thus, the rear portion of the carpet does not fit properly on the Fury. From what I can tell, these are the only two manufacturers of replacement carpets in the U.S. Please let me know if you find out this is incorrect. I ended up using the carpet from Trim Parts, but it doesn't look very good in the area near the retractable seat belts. An option that someone else suggested is to get one of these carpets and then have a trim shop cut out about 4 inches from the rear section so it fits properly. I had already poked a couple holes in mine so I couldn't try that. Good luck.

 

[saylor]

ill have to look where i got my carpet from, it was one of those places ^^ mentioned, and I picked it via recommendations from this forum

but i had a better experience than jeff did (sorry jeff!) my carpet pretty much exactly fit. once it was 'in' the car, it even started fitting the curves and contours, they for sure had it in a heat press or mold type of thing to shape it. it ships in about a postcard size box, it is recommended to unfold it and lay it flat, or in place if possible, as soon as you get it.

one other thing - on that MC ^^ where all the dead foam bits were. There IS a piece of foam that goes there. it is a filter for the baffle/booster air. I never did find a decent replacement filter. it was suggested by someone somewhere to get a lawn mower filter and cut it to fit. Im rolling without it presently.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[Jeff]

As an FYI, Trim Parts was great to work with - they just didn't have the right mold. They gave my money back and the carpet itself looks very nice, the retractor humps are just in the wrong place.

 

[Zephyr]

Belated thanks for the feedback on the carpet suppliers. I've just fired off an inquiry to Convertible Tops and Power Window Parts from 1946 - Hydro-E-Lectric and will let you know how I get on.

Convertible tops: canvas or vinyl? Can't remember ever seeing a vinyl roof in real life. They look good in pictures though and are more original, right? Big price difference I see. Hydo-E do vinyl for $379 and canvas for $650.

So, progress has been slow. Blame other projects, mostly this one:

Engine #3 is a good one (at last!), even if I had to go to the Netherlands to get it.

Been on this for a few days, too. (Dig Swamp's coffee mug/paint stripper container!)

And there was another awesome trip to the US. Kept the faith with the rental car:

And visited Vince's junkyard again. Always wanted a challenger, but not so much of a challenge:

Imperial, anyone?

Right, getting back on topic...

I painted the trans with satin black two pack. I, know it should be silver, but I think it'll look better this way.

And that's about it. I've been waiting on the engine, which is why the Ford has been getting all of the attention. It's now complete and I have a dyno session booked in for this Friday to get it broken in and tuned up. I promise that progress will pick up after I get it back! For one thing, I can't wait to find out if the hood still fits.

Thanks for reading.

 

[Fury440]

Canvas vs vinyl tops - when on the highway at "speed" the top balloons up quite a bit and I think the threads in a canvas top are an important limit.. A vinyl top on a hot day would balloon without any restraint and probably not return to it's starting size.

 

[polara71]

I had am fine paintedd black before..... you never saw the grease

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Convertible tops: canvas or vinyl? Can't remember ever seeing a vinyl roof in real life. They look good in pictures though and are more original, right? Big price difference I see. Hydo-E do vinyl for $379 and canvas for $650.

Vinyl is what they came with originally. I have some friends in Sweden who have restored a bunch of Chrysler convertibles, and after trying a canvas top, that's all they will use now. The canvas tops are much easier to install. It can be very difficult to work the wrinkles out of the vinyl, where the canvas has some stretch to it and is more forgiving. Canvas has an upscale look to it too.

Jeff

 

[Zephyr]

Feedback from Hydro-E-Lectric: “I just checked the carpets and my manufacturer does exactly as you feared. They list the carpet the same for a Fury and 300 in that year.”

Feedback from Legendary: “I just called my vendor, it is a general C body carpet.”

So I guess I’ve got to make a choice and go for it.

Canvas wins for the roof then (thanks for the replies, guys). Glass or plastic windows? The current roof has a plastic window that you can unzip. Like the idea of glass, as the plastic windows go cloudy and ultimately split. Were they glass as stock? Will both fit or is there a difference in the mechanism?


On to more fun things: the engine is ready! So on Friday I loaded it up and headed to the dyno.

This might be an ordinary occurrence for some, but this is the first time I’ve ever been to an engine dyno. Really enjoyed it.

If anyone is wondering, here’s my Summit parts list for the engine:

COMP Cams Pro Magnum Shaft Mount Roller Rocker Arms
CCA-1622-16
Rocker Arms, Shaft Mount, 1.5 Ratio, Steel, Rockers, Shafts, Spacers, Mopar, Small Block, Set of 16

COMP Cams High Energy Hydraulic Lifters
CCA-822-16
Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, AMC/Mopar, Set of 16

Mopar Performance Valve Springs
DCC-4286813
Valve Spring, Single, 1.388 in. Outside Diameter, 1.650 in. Installed Height, Each

Mopar Performance Rocker Shaft Hold Kits
DCC-5249712
Hold-Down Clamps, Rocker Arm Shaft, Billet Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Chrysler, Dodge/Plymouth, Small Block, Kit

Milodon Mechanical Water Pumps
MIL-16350
Water Pump, Mechanical, Standard-Volume, Aluminum, Natural, Chrysler, 318/340/360, Each

MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire Sets
MSD-31183
Spark Plug Wires, Super Conductor, Spiral Core, 8.5mm, Black, Multi-Angle Boots, Universal, L8/V8, Set

MSD Pro-Billet Ready-To-Run Distributors
MSD-8388
Distributor, Pro-Billet Ready-to-Run, Magnetic Pickup, Vacuum Advance, Chrysler, 273, 318, 340, 360, Each

Sealed Power Valves
SLP-V-1908
Valve, Intake, Chrysler, 318/340/360, Each

Sealed Power Valves
SLP-V-3925
Valve, Exhaust, Chrysler, 340/360, Dodge Truck 360/400, Each

Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifolds
EDL-2176
Intake Manifold, Performer, Dual Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square/Spread Bore, Non-EGR, Mopar, SB, Each

Mopar Performance Cast Aluminum Valve Covers
DCC-5007611
Valve Covers, Stock Height, Cast Aluminum, Black Wrinkle, Ribbed with Mopar Logo, Chrysler, Small Block, Pair

Mopar Performance Cast Air Cleaners
DCC-5249807
Air Filter Assembly, Round, Steel/Aluminum, Black Anodized Top with Mopar Logo, 2 3/4 in. Filter Height, Each

Keith Black KB Performance Piston and Ring Kits
UEM-KB167KTM-030
Piston and Ring Kit, Hypereutectic, Flat, 3.940 in. Bore, Mopar, Small Block, Kit

Fel-Pro Engine Gasket Kits
FEL-KS2114
Gaskets, Full Set, Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, 318, 340, Set

Clevite Camshaft Bearings
CLE-SH875S
Cam Bearings, B-1, Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, 273, 318, 340, 360, Kit

Clevite P-Series Rod Bearings
CLE-CB481P20
Rod Bearing, P Series, .020 in. Undersize, Tri Metal, Chrysler, 273, 318, 340, 360, Each

Melling Oil Pumps
MEL-M72
Oil Pump, Standard-Volume, Mopar, Small Block/3.9L V6, Each

Milodon Freeze Plug Kits
MIL-34040
Freeze Plug Kit, Brass, Chrysler, 273, 318, 340, 360, Kit

Gardner-Westcott Engine Dress Up Bolt Kits
GAR-56330-HSP
Engine Accessory Bolts, Dress Up, Hex Head, Stainless Steel, Polished, Chrysler, Dodge, Small Block, Kit

Clevite P-Series Main Bearings
CLE-MS540P20
Main Bearings, P Series, 1/2 Groove, .020 in. Undersize, Tri Metal, Chrysler, 273, 318, 340, Set of 5

Edelbrock Performer Carburetors
EDL-1406
Carburetor, Performer, 600 cfm, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Electric Choke, Single Inlet, Silver, Each

And the results? Well, we didn’t quite make it to 300hp. Bit disappointed, but it’s the torque that counts in a cruiser like this and it’s a nice flat curve, staying over 300lb-ft from 3000 to 5000 rpm. Doesn’t appear in the figures, but it wasn’t much short of that at 2000 rpm. Ultimately, I think it’s the heads that are holding it back. The engine builder suspects they’re early heads carried over from the 273. Here's the dyno sheet:

Didn't get much reaction to changing ignition timing and the carb didn't need any rejetting - it was fine across the whole range straight from the box, with only the idle mixture needing to be changed.

Two leaks on the dyno: small one from the oil filter and coolant coming up one of the thermostat housing bolts. We ran it without a thermostat so both will be coming off anyway. Any tricks with the bolts in the thermostat housing?

At this point I realise I never ordered engine mounts! Soon as they arrive, I’ll have a load of work to do.

Thanks for watching.

 

[polara71]

For your Fury, yes they were all glass

 

[Fury440]

Vinyl is what they came with originally. I have some friends in Sweden who have restored a bunch of Chrysler convertibles, and after trying a canvas top, that's all they will use now. The canvas tops are much easier to install. It can be very difficult to work the wrinkles out of the vinyl, where the canvas has some stretch to it and is more forgiving. Canvas has an upscale look to it too.

I'm confused, not sure what you mean by "canvas" and "vinyl". My top, from the factory, was a composite of both, the material is really vinyl coated canvas. The exterior is vinyl with an embossed textured surface, the interior is canvas. The tonneau cover is the same material and is currently still on the car so I have it as a sample.

The outside surface of the replaced top, zoom in to see the surface grain ..

The under side of the top and of the tonneau cover, note the factory tonneau cover is an off white whereas the replacement top is black. Zoom in to see the canvas threads. As I recall, this is the third or fourth top and I don't remember if the factory top was black or off white inside. My gut says black.

As for "pure" vinyl without a cloth backing, I've never seen one on any car.