1970 Plymouth Sport Fury V10 Swap Build Thread

MONC440

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
348
Reaction score
637
Location
Michigan
5 Years ago when I first got the Fury I pulled the seats out, found the broadcast sheet, laminated it, then promptly lost it.

Well I was cleaning out a storage room and found it.

I have looked at a couple sites trying to figure out how to read it. The sites give the codes but I don't understand how they decode the sheet.

For example on line 6 under console or aux seat it has a 21. On the sites that I have looked at they have a letter in front of the number like the fender tag, A21 and that's not anything to do with a seat.

My fender tag is missing so this is all I have to decode the car.

Build sheet.jpg
 

LocuMob

Fluid Technician with a hat
Joined
Oct 31, 2013
Messages
13,926
Reaction score
16,003
Location
Winnebago Mn
5 Years ago when I first got the Fury I pulled the seats out, found the broadcast sheet, laminated it, then promptly lost it.

Well I was cleaning out a storage room and found it.

I have looked at a couple sites trying to figure out how to read it. The sites give the codes but I don't understand how they decode the sheet.

For example on line 6 under console or aux seat it has a 21. On the sites that I have looked at they have a letter in front of the number like the fender tag, A21 and that's not anything to do with a seat.

My fender tag is missing so this is all I have to decode the car.

View attachment 545967
Does your car have a buddy seat? That would be code C21, Center Front Seat Cushion as per the MyMopar.com code list.
 

MONC440

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
348
Reaction score
637
Location
Michigan
It doesn’t have one now. I don’t know if it did. That’s the kind of stuff I want to figure out.

Thanks
 

cuda hunter

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
2,143
Reaction score
1,913
Location
Colorado
That is awesome that you have the build sheet. That being the case you can have a fender tag made as all the information on the fender tag is right there on the build sheet.

May I suggest, copying that build sheet half a dozen times, stuffing them in seats, and behind the glove box, maybe under the carpet. The car might as well have some treasure for the next owner and then it wont get lost from the car again, even if not original.
 

CBODY67

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
7,778
Reaction score
4,879
On bucket seat cars, mostly C-body cars, you had the choice of either a floor console (with shifter, either manual or automatic) or the "buddy seat". The FSM illustration of the console usually has a small inset up near the top of the illustration, which details a block-off plate for when a console is installed and has NO automatic trans floor shifter (i.e., column shifter with center console).

If the car originally had a console, there would be some metal brackets to mount the console on the trans hump. With the buddy seat, its mounting brackets would be in the same location as the seats are located. NO forward brackets needed, as the console would need.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 

MONC440

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
348
Reaction score
637
Location
Michigan
Ok I think everyone is missing the point. I was just listing the code for console as an example of how to read the broadcast sheet.

How do I decode the entire sheet. Like what does CP5 mean under car height or 87 under clutch pedal when this was an automatic car?
 

CBODY67

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
7,778
Reaction score
4,879
You might not find the decode for every item on the broadcast sheet. Especially things like "car height", which would only be known by assembly line operatives at the time of production, I suspect.

Along about 1975 or 1976, Chrysler went to a "full color" broadcast sheet which had the option decodes printed on the backside of the paper. Quite neat.
 

MONC440

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
348
Reaction score
637
Location
Michigan
Funny thing I just realized. The VIN on the broadcast sheet doesn't match the vin on the car. Looks like someone must have swapped the seats at some point. LOL

Oh well it was never going to be a full resto anyway.
 

cuda hunter

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
2,143
Reaction score
1,913
Location
Colorado
It is probably for a car that was made on the same production line within 4 hours of your car.
How close are the SPD's? The Spd on the sheet and the one on your fender tag?
 

CBODY67

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
7,778
Reaction score
4,879
Funny thing I just realized. The VIN on the broadcast sheet doesn't match the vin on the car. Looks like someone must have swapped the seats at some point. LOL

Oh well it was never going to be a full resto anyway.
Consider that some line workers knew what items matched with what cosmetic items on the cars, so they pulled the items "by look" rather than "by the build sheet", OR the items might have been loaded into the racks for the line operatives to pull from in an incorrect sequence . . . but they all were the same item for different cars. Several different ways for things to have gotten jumbled on the assy line, by observation.

DO not presume that the build sheet you find with your vehicle to actually be the correct one UNTIL you verify the VIN on the build sheet matches your vehicle's VIN.

Personally, I always presumed the build sheet for each vehicle (usually found in the rear seat cushion) would be correct for that vehicle . . . until several car club associates (who were very deep in to Wing Car-ology) observed that it was very possible for the build sheet to actually be for another vehicle coming down the line. There can be MORE build sheets in other items on the vehicle, too.

The build sheet is basically the birth certificate for the vehicle, BUT it also includes many things which are not really necessary to know for a "full restoration", too. With the major items also being listed on the Data Plate. Also things which can be needed to determine how the vehicle is equipped (i.e., engine, trans, brakes, rear axle, trim option, colors, etc.) as it was ordered. Each of the items on the build sheet will generate a slew of other related parts, too.

Additionally, the Data Plate might also have some "mis-stamps" on it, too. I knew of one particular '69 Road Runner which was still in the hands of the original owner, bought new off of the showroom floor, which had a Data Plate color of "Red", but was painted "white" by the factory. Although it had a red bench seat vinyl interior.

In addition to the many Build Sheet Decoders you might find online (many of which are just copies of one website's contents, or more oriented toward non-C-body cars, you can go into the "Library" section of www.hamtramck-historical.com, click on your vehicle model and year, and then look for the "Order Guide" and "Color and Trim Guide" for your vehicle to see what your vehicle has compared to what was available for that model. Using "Sales Codes" or "Option Codes" to verify what's there on your vehicle.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 

MONC440

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
348
Reaction score
637
Location
Michigan
Thanks the sequence numbers on the VINS are 280218 and 145433. The build sheet plant code is 2 and my vin is F? I know F is for Newark DE. What is 2? I thought they were all letters from 68 up?

1658579339849.png
 

MONC440

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
348
Reaction score
637
Location
Michigan
Also lots of codes on the sheet don't match with what I think were still original on the car.

The sheet shows codes for AM radio, standard A/C, no cruise control, 2.76 gears.

The car actually has AM/FM 3 speaker system, Automatic A/C, cruise and 3.23 gears. Gears could have been changed easily but all those things changed it isn't like likely.

Besides Newark what plants built the 70 Sport fury?
 

CBODY67

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
7,778
Reaction score
4,879
In the front "INFO" pages of your year of Chrysler Parts Book, there are decodes for the VIN information. www.mymopar.com for that free download.
 

LocuMob

Fluid Technician with a hat
Joined
Oct 31, 2013
Messages
13,926
Reaction score
16,003
Location
Winnebago Mn
Also lots of codes on the sheet don't match with what I think were still original on the car
I got excited when I pulled a broadcast sheet from the seat back in my '68 Monaco 500. Took about three seconds to lose that excitement, as I saw the sequence number was different. Similar car as mine, but with a white interior, mine was green.
 

MONC440

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
348
Reaction score
637
Location
Michigan
I guess a 2 for plant code was Hamtramick. Funny I thought all VIN numbers in 1970 had letters for the plant.
1658594746476.png
 

cuda hunter

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
2,143
Reaction score
1,913
Location
Colorado
I have never seen that before.
My first thought would be that the 2 is a mis stamp and should have been a letter.

The decoder is telling you it's hamtramck? Is there writing stating that other than the decoder?
 

MONC440

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
348
Reaction score
637
Location
Michigan
I have never seen that before.
My first thought would be that the 2 is a mis stamp and should have been a letter.

The decoder is telling you it's hamtramck? Is there writing stating that other than the decoder?
No and at this point I know it is the wrong build sheet so I'm not spending any more time on it. I'm going out and stating to patch the rust holes in the floor.

On a seprate subject how hard is it to pull the complete dash on a Fusy? When I pulled the glove box out I can see a few rust holes on the firewall that I want to fix. I'm also thinking about going to a modern HVAC system so pulling all the old Auto A/C stuff is a must.
 

CBODY67

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
7,778
Reaction score
4,879
Scrape the rust off, then use an encapsulator spray, then patch the hole, and reassemble.

Those old systems would blow 40 degree F air all day long in August in TX. And do that with the freon level about 1/2 lb low, by observation. I suspect you can spend a lot of money on a "modern system" and not get very much better performance, if any at all, from that "modern system". Changing to a Sanden compressor system (compressor and condenser; See TxDon's thread on this) would be good, though. Spraying some LizzardSkin on the floorpan would be good too, for added heat insulation.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Top