Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
Now that you mention it I recall reading that somewhere. Thanks.
For Sale 1970 Sport Fury GT for sale
- Thread starter 69monaco
- Start date
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Sorry Dave, chrome road wheels were an option in '70 so one would need to decode the fender tag and/or look at the build sheet to see which ones this car was built with. Agree that the center caps are the '75 & later caps and agree that the silver/argent painted wheels were the standard wheels on a '70 GT (and S/23).
ceebuddy
Well-Known Member
I'm a little confused now.
Was there a difference between the Chrome Styled Road Wheels that were available as an option on Chryslers, Polaras, Monacos, Furys etc. in 1970 and later versus the wheel that came standard on the 1970 Sport Fury GT as well as the S/23?
If yes, what exactly is that difference?
Was there a difference between the Chrome Styled Road Wheels that were available as an option on Chryslers, Polaras, Monacos, Furys etc. in 1970 and later versus the wheel that came standard on the 1970 Sport Fury GT as well as the S/23?
If yes, what exactly is that difference?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
ceebuddy
Well-Known Member
The operator of that webiste is a nitwit with a bloated ego, would never go look there
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I personally would like to thank you again for the site.
It is my Bible for Fuselages along with the Hamtramck Registry.
It is my Bible for Fuselages along with the Hamtramck Registry.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
The pic is a bit difficult to see, but you will see that the top road wheel is all argent silver while the other below has chrome on it.
Learn something new everyday. My clone is getting 15x7 Truck roadwheels
ceebuddy
Well-Known Member
So true!'69FuryIIIConvertible said:
Multifury
New Member
Here we go with revised description I promised, sorry for delay:
1970 Sport Fury GT, VIN PH23TOF143308. Car is partially completed and seems quite solid and would be very good start for restoration. I believe the engine is original, I have verified four of the six VIN digit numbers in correct sequential order on stamp on lower passenger side of the engine block (some are gummed up with paint there ) and on pad on top at front (440) Engine casting date: August 11 1969, have not found seven digit casting number yet (will continue to look). Non-original Transmission per number (though possible it has been in the car since the early to mid 1970s #4D156746 (passenger side) PK 3681 866 4511 9493 (driver side), differential code unknown (perhaps someone can point out location to look and I will do that)
The car was built in Newark Delaware October 1969. The car has a clear title. The car has a broadcast sheet and identification on car seems to be intact, I have a file of paperwork. Photos: Imgur
Car codes per tag:
END
M25 M26 M31 P45 R11 V6X
V1L A01 A04 A52 L31 L42
DY2 H4XA TX9 A15 185387
E85 D32 PH23 TOF 143308
I have been the owner of this car for over 13 years. It arrived to me from the Seattle Washington area and prior to that was in the Spokane Washington area where I do believe it spent much of its prior life, prior to that I don't know. I received a reasonable out-of-state estimate for restoration in 2014-15 (contact info for that individual can be provided to new owner and may be feasible if car remains in the central US, he knows these cars well) The estimate and possible add-ons was for full restoration and probable change of color with no vinyl top, I was considering all black.
Periodically, I drive it around a little bit in neighborhood and have taken to local town car show a few times where other older and rougher cars gather.. The car's engine and transmission and other aspects seem clean as there are no any noticeable leaks on the driveway. I no longer drive the car on highway due to age and condition of the tires. The tires have never been deflated and vehicle never has sit on ground, car sat mostly inside or under carport when I first received it, not so much now.
This GT like all of the others for sale is unique to the rest, good start for restoration, lots of things done, but many things need to be done and parts tracked down, a good donor car might be needed or perhaps not. The car’s appearance is rough from the outside even from a distance due to non matching fenders, parts missing, rust spots and splotchy sprayed primer spots, yet strangely a lot has already been done to it and someways may be an easier start for restoration than some others.
The exterior of the car including all trim needs total and complete restoration of the body and trim as it has original paint and shows rust in similar areas as other cars Some spot spraying with primer was made on the exterior in locations by someone in the past. I have checked these areas with a magnet from a tweeter speaker and it seems to stick so I am not sure of issues underneath or amount or body filler if any. The most dented area appears to be around the passenger door handle/lock, with a few deep scrapes and dents on both doors. The front valance and large trim are not attached including front turn signals. The lower quarters have usual rust, rear window channel and front passenger A pillar seem to have some of worst rust on the car that will require significant work and perhaps donor car or good channel fabrication, damage is due to old vinyl top trapping moisture. There is also lighter rust in strange areas but it has avoided to deep rust from road salt used in Iowa as it was never driven in winter. Rust high up in hood and deck lid.
I have a lot of disorganized and out of order photos of the bottom of the car to show probable use of undercoating or similar as I see little rust on most of it firewall backward, also picture of carpet pulled back to show some surface rust on floor (some water did get in due to leaky window but immediately dried). The trunk seems to have a few small holes but mostly looks like surface rust, I have had a little bit of water leak in there a few times in the past, but it too was dried immediately. The firewall and supports were painted violet/purple for some reason though the car stayed its original yellow.. A different color for this car may be desirable, the existing yellow seems pale and violet or purple may not be the best choice.
The car was in some type of front end accident a few decades back (damage seen in one old Kodak photo) new fenders and extensions, possibly bumper and lower valance. Bumper, supports and hood need to be aligned properly and hood needs to be able to latch properly, some adjustment to suspension needs to be made as it is sits a bit higher on driver side. Work to the suspension and other components will have to be made by the new owner will determine what they want and need to do.
The engine was rebuilt in 1994 and is no longer stock, it was apparently built for drag racing (behemoth-class cars). I have had some parties interested only in the engine and trans and other parts for their B body projects but they were unsure what to do with the rest of the car except for parting it out.
I was unable to talk to shop or owner of shop that rebuilt engine as they are no longer in existence, owner of car at the time is also deceased. I have a lot of paperwork with work done to car in Washington State.
Main modifications to rebuild per order and work sheets:
Other work or changes to other internal components such as pistons, connecting rods, crank etc. is unknown. I have not found anything that indicates aftermarket for these so I am guessing original for these but I don’t know. No leaks from anything.
The interior of the car is in decent shape as the seats were reupholstered in 2001, black split bench with charcoal cloth insert, newer dash. Door panels are black and not torn or faded, though inserts need some work. Tear in headliner in back (came this way) rear package tray pad is faded and worn, driver side arm rest driver side, Work needs to be done to the carpet in places since it is bunched and faded in spots. The dash pad developed a 7” tear on the drivers side late last year, I could not get any repair places to come to the car to repair so it will need to be pulled and repaired at a shop professionally. I used conditioner on the pad this year and the rest is okay. The tear has been stopped about an inch from the edge and has not progressed, I used a highly suggested product called VLP to mend that leading edge and hold it for time being.
Things that do not work and or troubleshooted: Heater needs to be connected (motor installed only), windshield wipers, front turn signals( valance), headlight motor (electric) can open door by turning knob at bottom of motor. AM Radio works but needs antenna. Headlights do work
Decent:
Missing, worn, or work needed/replaced among other things :
Inspections welcome and suggested for those seriously interested and in proximity of car including a state or two from Iowa.
For those looking for a high-option and non-modified original, this car is not it. This might be the lowest option GT still in existence, difference being is its 440 has been rebuilt for racing and you can tell. This car would be better suited for someone that can do and enjoy doing much if not all of their own work and/or wants a stark basic car with a load of power and would enjoy driving it.
1970 Sport Fury GT, VIN PH23TOF143308. Car is partially completed and seems quite solid and would be very good start for restoration. I believe the engine is original, I have verified four of the six VIN digit numbers in correct sequential order on stamp on lower passenger side of the engine block (some are gummed up with paint there ) and on pad on top at front (440) Engine casting date: August 11 1969, have not found seven digit casting number yet (will continue to look). Non-original Transmission per number (though possible it has been in the car since the early to mid 1970s #4D156746 (passenger side) PK 3681 866 4511 9493 (driver side), differential code unknown (perhaps someone can point out location to look and I will do that)
The car was built in Newark Delaware October 1969. The car has a clear title. The car has a broadcast sheet and identification on car seems to be intact, I have a file of paperwork. Photos: Imgur
Car codes per tag:
END
M25 M26 M31 P45 R11 V6X
V1L A01 A04 A52 L31 L42
DY2 H4XA TX9 A15 185387
E85 D32 PH23 TOF 143308
I have been the owner of this car for over 13 years. It arrived to me from the Seattle Washington area and prior to that was in the Spokane Washington area where I do believe it spent much of its prior life, prior to that I don't know. I received a reasonable out-of-state estimate for restoration in 2014-15 (contact info for that individual can be provided to new owner and may be feasible if car remains in the central US, he knows these cars well) The estimate and possible add-ons was for full restoration and probable change of color with no vinyl top, I was considering all black.
Periodically, I drive it around a little bit in neighborhood and have taken to local town car show a few times where other older and rougher cars gather.. The car's engine and transmission and other aspects seem clean as there are no any noticeable leaks on the driveway. I no longer drive the car on highway due to age and condition of the tires. The tires have never been deflated and vehicle never has sit on ground, car sat mostly inside or under carport when I first received it, not so much now.
This GT like all of the others for sale is unique to the rest, good start for restoration, lots of things done, but many things need to be done and parts tracked down, a good donor car might be needed or perhaps not. The car’s appearance is rough from the outside even from a distance due to non matching fenders, parts missing, rust spots and splotchy sprayed primer spots, yet strangely a lot has already been done to it and someways may be an easier start for restoration than some others.
The exterior of the car including all trim needs total and complete restoration of the body and trim as it has original paint and shows rust in similar areas as other cars Some spot spraying with primer was made on the exterior in locations by someone in the past. I have checked these areas with a magnet from a tweeter speaker and it seems to stick so I am not sure of issues underneath or amount or body filler if any. The most dented area appears to be around the passenger door handle/lock, with a few deep scrapes and dents on both doors. The front valance and large trim are not attached including front turn signals. The lower quarters have usual rust, rear window channel and front passenger A pillar seem to have some of worst rust on the car that will require significant work and perhaps donor car or good channel fabrication, damage is due to old vinyl top trapping moisture. There is also lighter rust in strange areas but it has avoided to deep rust from road salt used in Iowa as it was never driven in winter. Rust high up in hood and deck lid.
I have a lot of disorganized and out of order photos of the bottom of the car to show probable use of undercoating or similar as I see little rust on most of it firewall backward, also picture of carpet pulled back to show some surface rust on floor (some water did get in due to leaky window but immediately dried). The trunk seems to have a few small holes but mostly looks like surface rust, I have had a little bit of water leak in there a few times in the past, but it too was dried immediately. The firewall and supports were painted violet/purple for some reason though the car stayed its original yellow.. A different color for this car may be desirable, the existing yellow seems pale and violet or purple may not be the best choice.
The car was in some type of front end accident a few decades back (damage seen in one old Kodak photo) new fenders and extensions, possibly bumper and lower valance. Bumper, supports and hood need to be aligned properly and hood needs to be able to latch properly, some adjustment to suspension needs to be made as it is sits a bit higher on driver side. Work to the suspension and other components will have to be made by the new owner will determine what they want and need to do.
The engine was rebuilt in 1994 and is no longer stock, it was apparently built for drag racing (behemoth-class cars). I have had some parties interested only in the engine and trans and other parts for their B body projects but they were unsure what to do with the rest of the car except for parting it out.
I was unable to talk to shop or owner of shop that rebuilt engine as they are no longer in existence, owner of car at the time is also deceased. I have a lot of paperwork with work done to car in Washington State.
Main modifications to rebuild per order and work sheets:
- ISKY Racing Camshaft 280 Mega 160181
- R lifters
- Summit true roller timing set
- Milodon deep sump plan
- Melling high pressure oil pump
- Windage Tray
- Wieand intake manifold
- Carter Comp Carburetor
- Electronic ignition and conversion, Accel super coil
- Deep Transmission pan
- Transmission cooler
- Aftermarket gauges in car but no tachometer
Other work or changes to other internal components such as pistons, connecting rods, crank etc. is unknown. I have not found anything that indicates aftermarket for these so I am guessing original for these but I don’t know. No leaks from anything.
The interior of the car is in decent shape as the seats were reupholstered in 2001, black split bench with charcoal cloth insert, newer dash. Door panels are black and not torn or faded, though inserts need some work. Tear in headliner in back (came this way) rear package tray pad is faded and worn, driver side arm rest driver side, Work needs to be done to the carpet in places since it is bunched and faded in spots. The dash pad developed a 7” tear on the drivers side late last year, I could not get any repair places to come to the car to repair so it will need to be pulled and repaired at a shop professionally. I used conditioner on the pad this year and the rest is okay. The tear has been stopped about an inch from the edge and has not progressed, I used a highly suggested product called VLP to mend that leading edge and hold it for time being.
Things that do not work and or troubleshooted: Heater needs to be connected (motor installed only), windshield wipers, front turn signals( valance), headlight motor (electric) can open door by turning knob at bottom of motor. AM Radio works but needs antenna. Headlights do work
Decent:
- Rebuilt but modified 440, original I believe from identifying most numbers in correct order Fires up and runs
- 727 Torqueflite Transmission date coded to August 1971 or December 1973 #4D156746 #PK 3681 866 4511 9493 non-original from what I can tell (used data from MMC Detroit website)
- Decent but slightly older black interior. It is a split bench seat versus the desired buckets/buddy seat but at least interior is not green or brown
- Bottom of car seems decent, might have been undercoated, does not have any significant deep rust.
Missing, worn, or work needed/replaced among other things :
- New windshield and back-glass at time of restoration (obviously)
- Broken washer bottle,
- Rear window “package tray”, pad
- Tear in headliner in back,
- Crack in dash pad at driver side (tear has been stopped short of edge and should be removed and repaired professionally the rest of it is in nice shape,
- Cracks in steering wheel,
- Driver side arm rest
- Fading in carpet needs to be re stretched/dyed? In spots, rest seems okay. .
- Tires for highway use, existing ones should hold it up only
- Correct exhaust tip
- Wheel molding for 3 wheels
- Correct center caps if this car had them and if desired
- Differential work or replacement
- 440 Super Commando air cleaner or decals for this air cleaner
- Strobe stripe kit, other possible decals
Inspections welcome and suggested for those seriously interested and in proximity of car including a state or two from Iowa.
For those looking for a high-option and non-modified original, this car is not it. This might be the lowest option GT still in existence, difference being is its 440 has been rebuilt for racing and you can tell. This car would be better suited for someone that can do and enjoy doing much if not all of their own work and/or wants a stark basic car with a load of power and would enjoy driving it.
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You are correct that Mopar road wheels came both plated and painted. The wheels for this car, per the build sheet provided on Imagur have a W21 code which is for painted steel road wheels. The wheels on the car are incorrect. W23 should be the code for the chromed wheels if I am reading the book correctly. Very few SFGT cars had the chromed wheels.
Dave
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Newark Delaware, not Jersey...
fury fan
Senior Member
'Truck' roadwheels? Please explain?
Same as car roadwheels but an inch wider.
brougham brummel
Well-Known Member
Hey guys,wash,t the 70 Fury GT available with a 6 barrel carb set up but was deleted for 71? Trying to remember my history.I do know less than 1400 GT,s were made.heh.B.B
6BBL setup was only available for '70. All '71's came standard with the 440 high performance engine. Total production for 1970 of all SFGT variants was 666 total units. Just 375 total were produced in 1971.
Dave
fury fan
Senior Member
IIRC the roadwheels of the 70-74 (?) era were 6" wide, and later ones were 7".
Or were all the ones on cars 6" wide?
Was there a 6.5" car wheel?
Were the later car wheels 7"?
Are the truck roadwheels all at 7"?
Tyring to learn something new...
To my recollection, and my findings this far, all 1/2 ton trucks and vans with roadwheels got 15x7, cars got 15x6, I've never seen a 6.5 roadwheel, nor have I had any off of post 78 cars.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
As mentioned above, ALL C-bodies with Road Wheels were 6" but later smaller RWD car lines got 7".
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