1971 Plymouth Sport Fury GT Brogham & U code Super Comando

Sigh. Roadwheel centres 70-74 :

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Motor Wheel was the manufacturer of the center caps pictured by Stan above and they were supplied to AMC but not production Chrysler Corp vehicles. I suspect they did supply Chrysler with some AMC type for the pre-production vehicles used in their photo shoots for the 1970 Chrysler dealer brochures and other material. Production vehicles used the slightly different center caps pictured by Mr C. Motor Wheel also sold the AMC center caps in the aftermarket but replaced the AMC red circular metal decal with one that said "Motor Wheel". I have sets of both the AMC and Motor Wheel versions. Just to see how close they would come to the production Chrysler center cap, I removed the red metal ring from one of those aftermarket type and put them on a road wheel to see just how close it would look side by side as shown in the photo below. The difference is pretty obvious up close, but the unsuspecting might not notice from a distance.

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A man on a galloping horse probably wouldn't notice. I would wager there is 15 active members that would pick up on it
 
Nicely done, I will be doing this too, one question though. Did you coat the inside of the chassis frame before painting it? I will be using internal chassis coater on mine, it is zinc infused so will add to the rust protection. In fact from using the stuff before I have a firm belief that it is the same as zinc chromate used in the aircraft industry. I haven't looked too hard at that yet but I will be researching it more.
 
Nicely done, I will be doing this too, one question though. Did you coat the inside of the chassis frame before painting it? I will be using internal chassis coater on mine, it is zinc infused so will add to the rust protection. In fact from using the stuff before I have a firm belief that it is the same as zinc chromate used in the aircraft industry. I haven't looked too hard at that yet but I will be researching it more.


asked him about that....insides are blasted and cleaned pretty good and coated...not shure what hes using and am not gona second guess him or micro manage so will give him the lead on what he dose...
on my 91 gmc used Rustbullet and a topcoat...anything l do for myself will continue to use rust bullet as a base protection...stuff works great
http://www.rustbullet.com/?source=adwords&gclid=CKPIoNHY38kCFQoKaQodPv0ISQ
 
I was wondering whether you guys considered powder coating, and if so, what are the pros/cons (I do realize it wouldn't be original to do it that way, but just wondering)? I have heard that powder coating tends to chip whereas paint, not so much, but paint also may not be as durable over time. I figured Paul has considered this given the top notch quality work he is performing. Way to go!
 
I was wondering whether you guys considered powder coating, and if so, what are the pros/cons (I do realize it wouldn't be original to do it that way, but just wondering)? I have heard that powder coating tends to chip whereas paint, not so much, but paint also may not be as durable over time. I figured Paul has considered this given the top notch quality work he is performing. Way to go!

Don't take this to be expert input, but what I have come to understand over the years from painters and dealing with tool boxes (many are powder coated)... very strong and good chemical resistance because its baked on, not cured paint. Every painter I ever talked to hates it, they cant get anything to stick easily... making touchups/blending very difficult. As far as doing large pieces, you would need a very large oven to bake it. I have not done it myself, but I know some enterprising young men who have repurposed an old oven and done smaller chassis parts for the tuner crowd... I wouldn't recommend using the one in your kitchen.

I personally am not so hung up on originality and like to see protected metal. The factory didn't and still doesn't try to build a lifetime car, but we certainly want that. A good quality rust prep and chassis type durable paint should make everything last much better than factory... driving and repair/maintenance work may chip the paint... but if its not treated as a disposable driver, touch ups shouldn't be too hard. I think either way is fine if you don't have a trailer queen, in which case you would probably want to just clear the natural finish items to prevent flash rust.

Critter, have you figured out your hockey puck dilemma? I did that one time on an old GMC chassis swap along with some quickie body mount transplants, mostly because I was out of time to track down a better solution and needed the thing on the road (moving to FL, required PA inspection) They are not really the same material and I had serious doubts they would last more than a season or two. It did let me level the cab and "look" right, but it certainly wasn't right. I am sure Paul has a solution in mind.
 
actually he asked me last night to source some out...sooooo where can l find body bushings for a C body?
 
actually he asked me last night to source some out...sooooo where can l find body bushings for a C body?
Every comment I have ever read tells me they are a DIY project ranging from using actual hockey pucks ( you have plenty up there, eh? ) to machining your own from HDPE.

One member, years ago, measured them and posted the dimensions but damn if I can find it now. Sorry.
 
Every comment I have ever read tells me they are a DIY project ranging from using actual hockey pucks ( you have plenty up there, eh? ) to machining your own from HDPE.

One member, years ago, measured them and posted the dimensions but damn if I can find it now. Sorry.

I vote against hockey pucks, I don't think HDPE would stiffen it up too much and would be less likely to crack and fall apart with age. But I have no engineering background and not enough hockey puck background to give a full assessment... if NOS doesn't miraculously appear. I would float the idea past Paul, he is the guy doing the work... and I never think its wise to piss off the chef before the meal.
 
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