1972 Fury III Turn Signal Switch Recommendations

[1970FuryConv]

· I need to buy a turn signal switch for my 1972 fury, non-tilt steering wheel, because the brown wire for the right side turn signals and brake light is not passing any voltage when I press the brake pedal or operate the turn signal lever. I wondered if this part number 3488805 is the one that I need. Also the NOS switches are very expensive, starting at $179.99, so I wondered if any of the $40 or $50 aftermarket switches are any good or they all junk? Thanks much for your help, Ben

1970 71 72 73 74 NOS MoPar T/S SWITCH Cuda Dart Charger Road Runner Challenger | eBay

 

[Davea Lux]

· I need to buy a turn signal switch for my 1972 fury, non-tilt steering wheel, because the brown wire for the right side turn signals and brake light is not passing any voltage when I press the brake pedal or operate the turn signal lever. I wondered if this part number 3488805 is the one that I need. Also the NOS switches are very expensive, starting at $179.99, so I wondered if any of the $40 or $50 aftermarket switches are any good or they all junk? Thanks much for your help, Ben

View attachment 166402
1970 71 72 73 74 NOS MoPar T/S SWITCH Cuda Dart Charger Road Runner Challenger | eBay

The repop electrical stuff that was made overseas, by and large is all crap. You might wind up buying two or three to get one that lasts. If it was mine, I would bite the bullet and buy the OEM unit.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

· I need to buy a turn signal switch for my 1972 fury, non-tilt steering wheel, because the brown wire for the right side turn signals and brake light is not passing any voltage when I press the brake pedal or operate the turn signal lever. I wondered if this part number 3488805 is the one that I need. Also the NOS switches are very expensive, starting at $179.99, so I wondered if any of the $40 or $50 aftermarket switches are any good or they all junk? Thanks much for your help, Ben

View attachment 166402
1970 71 72 73 74 NOS MoPar T/S SWITCH Cuda Dart Charger Road Runner Challenger | eBay

Check your existing switch at the contacts for the 4 way flasher, sometimes on cars that sat a long time these contacts get corroded and all that is needed is to clean them up.

Dave

 

[1970FuryConv]

Check your existing switch at the contacts for the 4 way flasher, sometimes on cars that sat a long time these contacts get corroded and all that is needed is to clean them up.Dave

Hi Dave, Not surprised about repop. Aftermarket parts quality has gone to hell over the last 15 years.
Thanks for the tip on the contacts. If I have to remove the switch, Gary Wollfen said in another post that the connector can be turned sideways so the old switch can be removed whole, wiring intact, and the new switch installed the same way. Is that your experience? Do you have any other advice on getting the connector for the new unit through the 2 housings? I had a lot of trouble with that with a 1970 Dodge truck column that I worked on many years ago.

 

[Davea Lux]

You can get the connector out by bending the wires where they go in the connector at a 90 degree angle so the long side of the connector runs parallel to the steering column. You can then pull out the switch and the connector will follow the wires. If necessary you can use some fishing line to tie the connector to the wires.

Dave

 

[1970FuryConv]

You can get the connector out by bending the wires where they go in the connector at a 90 degree angle so the long side of the connector runs parallel to the steering column. You can then pull out the switch and the connector will follow the wires. If necessary you can use some fishing line to tie the connector to the wires.Dave

That's exactly what I did this afternoon. On the dirty contacts, The dark brown wire is the one not sending current to RS rear TS/BL. Is there a continuity test I could perform with switch in right turn position? Front and left rear TS are OK. Continuity from this connection to pin at blue connector under column is .3 ohms.

 

[Polara_500]

I *think* the white wire is the input to the turn sigs. What do you get between that and the dark brown.

 

[Big_John]

Just thinking out loud.... Maybe adding a couple tyco relays after the switch to carry the current for the bulbs. That would make the contacts last longer.

Wouldn't do anything for the plastic bits, but it could make a difference in being able to use a lesser quality switch.

 

[Davea Lux]

That's exactly what I did this afternoon. On the dirty contacts, The dark brown wire is the one not sending current to RS rear TS/BL. Is there a continuity test I could perform with switch in right turn position? Front and left rear TS are OK. Continuity from this connection to pin at blue connector under column is .3 ohms.
View attachment 166630

Looks to me like the rivet in the brown wire and the loop connector for the brown wire have been running warm. Try running the continuity test between the center of the rivet and the base of the loop connector. If it is "open" , you can sand the the outer radius of the rivet and the loop connector and solder it. Be careful no to use too much heat.

Dave

 

[1970FuryConv]

I *think* the white wire is the input to the turn sigs. What do you get between that and the dark brown.

Hi Polara 500. The white wire from the blue connector is the brake light switch input from near the top of the brake pedal. You might be right about the 2nd white wire. I’m having trouble getting continuity from it to either of the rear light wires. I am certainly no expert on turn signal switches, so I appreciate the advice. The only thing that I do know is that the contact in the switch is the same for the front and rear turn signals on the same side. I think we found my problem. See my next post.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Looks to me like the rivet in the brown wire and the loop connector for the brown wire have been running warm. Try running the continuity test between the center of the rivet and the base of the loop connector. If it is "open" , you can sand the the outer radius of the rivet and the loop connector and solder it. Be careful no to use too much heat. Dave

Hi Dave, I think you hit the nail on the head. Test results below.
· 3488804 Test on work table, measured from pins at blue connector, normally exposed under steering column
· LS TS engage: .2 ohms between LG front turn signal and DG rear turn signal pins at blue connector. No continuity at off or RS TS positions
· RS TS engage no continuity between tan front turn signal and brown rear turn signal wire pins at blue connector. No continuity at off or LS TS positions
· RF TS Tan: .6 ohms from blue connector pin to rivet contact at switch
· RR TS Brown: no continuity from blue connector pin to rivet contact at switch. .5 ohms continuity from blue connector pin to wire end at contact.

 

[70Tom]

· I need to buy a turn signal switch for my 1972 fury, non-tilt steering wheel, because the brown wire for the right side turn signals and brake light is not passing any voltage when I press the brake pedal or operate the turn signal lever. I wondered if this part number 3488805 is the one that I need. Also the NOS switches are very expensive, starting at $179.99, so I wondered if any of the $40 or $50 aftermarket switches are any good or they all junk? Thanks much for your help, Ben

View attachment 166402
1970 71 72 73 74 NOS MoPar T/S SWITCH Cuda Dart Charger Road Runner Challenger | eBay

They're total crap. Put a reproduction switch purchased at MoparMall.com in my 70. The canceling rod on the steering wheel kept hitting the cam, even when the switch wasn't on. Then, the turn signal just burned up under the steering wheel. My electrical guy couldn't find anything in my car that would have caused it, and basically determined the signal contacts were just crap.

Purchase the NOS unit and you won't be sorry. Do it once, do it right. I'm done with reproduction crap. NOS stuff all the way for me from hereon out, if possible.

 

[1970FuryConv]

· I took a piece of fine steel wool and Mopar 50 electric cleaner. I managed to clean up the rivet for the brown right rear turn signal wire, but I was still not getting continuity from the rivet to the brown wire pin at the blue connector. I was afraid to solder around 46-year-old plastic. Instead, I tried rocking the wire ring terminal slightly back and forth on the rivet, with many more applications of Mopar 50. Eventually I did get continuity. 0.3 ohms from rivet to brown wire pin at blue connector. Now resistance from the tan front right turn signal pin at the blue connector to the brown rear right turn signal pin at the blue connector is .2 ohms. I think we saved this switch.

· My question is: I have the steering wheel off the car, so I can work in the dash, specifically the instrument cluster, where I need to remove the headlamp switch. Can I reinstall this TS switch in the column, hook up the battery, and test it without causing any trouble to the horn wiring? I remember 20 years ago I was trying a switch in the column on a 69 Monaco without the Horn switch hooked up, and I smelled a burning smell. Thanks again, Ben

Test set up

Ultimate continuity for RS turn signal, .2 ohms between front & rear pins

Contact plate for right turn. May be same plate all the way across the switch. (Left turn position here is only to expose the plate)

 

[1970FuryConv]

BAD NEWS
· I installed the switch. Installed 3 retainer screws on retainer ring at 27 inch pounds. Turn signal Lever: polished with chrome polish and reinstalled. Started car, no problem with horn circuit smoking. I tested for turn signal voltage and got it for the right rear turn signal wire, as well as the left rear turn signal wire. The charging system was charging at 15.04 V, which is about normal.

· No Right Rear Brake Light Voltage: I applied the brakes by hand. I got no voltage at the right rear turn signal wire, although I did get 15 V at the left rear turn signal wire. Turned off car. I got continuity between the white brake light switch input wire and the left rear turn signal wire. Unfortunately, there is no continuity between the white brake light switch input wire and the right rear turn signal wire. I can’t see another rivet to clean up. Bout ready to throw in the towel and buy an NOS switch.

Any suggestions for fixing this switch or should I bail out?

 

[Davea Lux]

BAD NEWS
· I installed the switch. Installed 3 retainer screws on retainer ring at 27 inch pounds. Turn signal Lever: polished with chrome polish and reinstalled. Started car, no problem with horn circuit smoking. I tested for turn signal voltage and got it for the right rear turn signal wire, as well as the left rear turn signal wire. The charging system was charging at 15.04 V, which is about normal.

· No Right Rear Brake Light Voltage: I applied the brakes by hand. I got no voltage at the right rear turn signal wire, although I did get 15 V at the left rear turn signal wire. Turned off car. I got continuity between the white brake light switch input wire and the left rear turn signal wire. Unfortunately, there is no continuity between the white brake light switch input wire and the right rear turn signal wire. I can’t see another rivet to clean up. Bout ready to throw in the towel and buy an NOS switch.

Any suggestions for fixing this switch or should I bail out?

You may need a new switch. Were you testing for voltage at the connector to the RR turn signal? Try running a hot lead to the RR rear turn signal to be sure you have no open wiring to the assembly and that it has a good ground. Also try applying the 4 way flasher to see if the RR is still dead.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

BAD NEWS
· I installed the switch. Installed 3 retainer screws on retainer ring at 27 inch pounds. Turn signal Lever: polished with chrome polish and reinstalled. Started car, no problem with horn circuit smoking. I tested for turn signal voltage and got it for the right rear turn signal wire, as well as the left rear turn signal wire. The charging system was charging at 15.04 V, which is about normal.

· No Right Rear Brake Light Voltage: I applied the brakes by hand. I got no voltage at the right rear turn signal wire, although I did get 15 V at the left rear turn signal wire. Turned off car. I got continuity between the white brake light switch input wire and the left rear turn signal wire. Unfortunately, there is no continuity between the white brake light switch input wire and the right rear turn signal wire. I can’t see another rivet to clean up. Bout ready to throw in the towel and buy an NOS switch.

Any suggestions for fixing this switch or should I bail out?

Also, did you check for continuity from the loop connector to the brown wire. Loop/wire surface might also be corroded.

Dave

 

[1970FuryConv]

You may need a new switch. Were you testing for voltage at the connector to the RR turn signal? Try running a hot lead to the RR rear turn signal to be sure you have no open wiring to the assembly and that it has a good ground. Also try applying the 4 way flasher to see if the RR is still dead. Dave

Also, did you check for continuity from the loop connector to the brown wire. Loop/wire surface might also be corroded. Dave

Hi Dave,
I am also thinking new switch. I checked for voltage at the end of the turn signal switch's wires, under the steering column. I have all voltage but the right rear brake. I have both turn signals and left rear brake. Didn't check hazard, except to turn them on and listen to the flasher click. On continuity, I checked from the brown wire ring terminal at the switch to the blue connector at the other end of the brown wire. .3 ohms resistance. The clean up you recommended worked great on the turn signal. Brown wire still has no continuity to the white input wire from the brake switch. If I could fix that, the switch would be repaired. I can't figure out what terminal to clean. The brake light switch has one input wire, which has one terminal. The internal feed from this wire to the left side turn signal wire works great. I'm not sure if the right side internal feed from the brake light wire is burnt up, or even if I can access it to fix it. You help and recs are welcome. Thanks, Ben

The white brake input wire is to the left of the pink wire in the picture below, although it looks more cream color. The brown wire contact is below the turn signal side of the switch.

 

[Davea Lux]

Hi Dave,
I am also thinking new switch. I checked for voltage at the end of the turn signal switch's wires, under the steering column. I have all voltage but the right rear brake. I have both turn signals and left rear brake. Didn't check hazard, except to turn them on and listen to the flasher click. On continuity, I checked from the brown wire ring terminal at the switch to the blue connector at the other end of the brown wire. .3 ohms resistance. The clean up you recommended worked great on the turn signal. Brown wire still has no continuity to the white input wire from the brake switch. If I could fix that, the switch would be repaired. I can't figure out what terminal to clean. The brake light switch has one input wire, which has one terminal. The internal feed from this wire to the left side turn signal wire works great. I'm not sure if the right side internal feed from the brake light wire is burnt up, or even if I can access it to fix it. You help and recs are welcome. Thanks, Ben

The white brake input wire is to the left of the pink wire in the picture below, although it looks more cream color. The brown wire contact is below the turn signal side of the switch.
View attachment 166940

How did the contacts between the upper and lower half the turn signal switch look? Top half rotates either right or left to engage the center-line contacts. Do you have good continuity on the upper rivets? With the screw holding the turn signal lever removed there should be a rectangular metal block visible at the center of the upper part of the switch. Carefully work the ends of the upper switch up and down and it should detach to expose the internal contacts. If they are sunken because of overheating, you need a new switch.

Dave

 

[1970FuryConv]

Hi Dave
I copied and printed your instructions. I didn't take the upper half off, so I don't know on the internal contacts. All the rivets looked OK, except the brown wire that looked dark. With grounding thru socket > taillight housing> bumper > bumper bracket > body, I imagine the circuit overloaded from excessive resistance to ground. (I would gladly be corrected here, if that's not how things work) I can't get any continuity between the brake light switch wire and the brown wire. Resistance is infinite on my Fluke 78. The rectangular metal block is visible. I think it is undamaged. I will remove the switch and see if I can get the upper half detached. Many thanks again for your expert help, Ben

FYI, according to one FCBO member, my car came from Oregon. Very little rust underneath.

 

[luigi164]

Don't know if this will help but just noticed a post on FB (yeah I know..) from a guy from Germany who had also problems with this switch. He repaired it and included some pics how to...

Here's the link:

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