For Sale 1973 Fury III 4 door hard top blue inside and out

[McPherson 57]

Up for consideration. What once was a super nice car until it was rear ended. The interior is super nice, and so is all the sheet metal forward the 1/4s. This is a turn key 318-727 car. Fully functional. I have purchased one NOS right rear 1/4 for it as well as a Texas trunk lid bumper and tail light lenses and extensions. I don't think you'll find a nicer original blue interior anywhere on the planet. This Interior I believe would also work for a 72 4 door hard top, and probably 72-73 Dodge Polara and Monaco as well. I have $3500 invested in this car and parts. I'm hoping to get $3000 for it. I have considered pulling the drive train, however if someone needed the hard-to-find linkages and nearly new exhaust, it is (all) there intact. It also has a set of nearly new tires with probably less than a 1000 miles on them. If you have some good bones to work with a nice car could be built reasonably. Located in mid-Michigan 48661. If interested come and see for yourself. I will not arrange shipping. Bring 3k and a truck and a trailer. (I don't want to part it out)

 

[1970FuryConv]

How is the front subframe/stub frame?
Thanks

 

[McPherson 57]

I have no reason to doubt that is fine, however I have not had it over a pit to inspect.

 

[Triple Pickle]

I think you could get close to that out of it provided you can supply pics of the underside, under hood, ect, showing that the only bad parts are the obvious. If you leave the condition to the buyers imagination, they might assume the worst.

 

[Justin Plant]

I did notice one good thing, the passenger side doors don't appear to be pinched together. The gap isn't consistent. But I bet the front door opens. Plus I don't see where any filler has popped of the quarters.

 

[McPherson 57]

I think you could get close to that out of it provided you can supply pics of the underside, under hood, ect, showing that the only bad parts are the obvious. If you leave the condition to the buyers imagination, they might assume the worst.

I'll do my best to take some underside photos and engine compartment. This car is super solid. I tried to find a frame shop that was willing to try to straighten it. I wouldn't have bought it or all the parts if it was a rust bucket.

 

[McPherson 57]

I did notice one good thing, the passenger side doors don't appear to be pinched together. The gap isn't consistent. But I bet the front door opens. Plus I don't see where any filler has popped of the quarters.

All the doors open and close. The right rear is a little stubborn, but it does open and close.

 

[Triple Pickle]

I'll do my best to take some underside photos and engine compartment. This car is super solid. I tried to find a frame shop that was willing to try to straighten it. I wouldn't have bought it or all the parts if it was a rust bucket.

I believe you. I’m just saying pictures are free and they prove to an interested buyer what you are saying is true. The car looks great!
I believe this car would be an easier fix than one that has rust issues.

 

[McPherson 57]

Engine bay and best I could do for underside pics.

 

[Triple Pickle]

Very good! That’s the kind of engine compartment I like to see. Complete, original and unmolested. It speaks volumes as to the condition of the rest of the car.
I don’t think you’ll have any problems selling it. If it was a sedan it would be sitting in my driveway right now. Luckily for you, most people prefer hardtops.

 

[McPherson 57]

I guess videos aren't allowed but I tried.

 

[Triple Pickle]

I guess videos aren't allowed but I tried.

I think you have provided sufficient pictures and description for serious buyers.

 

[1970FuryConv]

I guess videos aren't allowed but I tried.

You can upload videos to You Tube and post a link on FCBO.
It requires
1 open you-tube account
2 upload video to you-tube
3 copy address line at top of page while video playing on you-tube
4 paste to a post on your thread.
I'm no computer genius, far from it. If I can do it, you can go it.

As to selling it, getting a service station to let you put it on a lift, taking pictures from below of the front subframe and floors, and posting them would help a buyer make a decision.

 

[1970FuryConv]

I believe you. I’m just saying pictures are free and they prove to an interested buyer what you are saying is true. The car looks great!
I believe this car would be an easier fix than one that has rust issues.

Depends on the amount of rust. If rust is limited to floors and back of front fenders, I'd rather do the car with rust.

My experience: I had a 1969 Monaco 4 door HT with some of the same damage. Estimate to repair in 2006 was $4000. Depending on labor hours.

My car: 69 Monaco Passenger side rear damaged. DTS axle green bearing scored axle shaft, which broke and wheel came off in wheel well while driving: Trunk extension, full quarter, wheel well, package tray support from wheel well damaged. Dutchman, rear subframe, taillights and taillight panel were OK. I think the full quarter was going to be $1500 with ship. The rest was labor and supplies. The repair cost was more than the full value of the car at the time.

My point is that I could use a shop and this car as a donor and with light rust, I think I could save $ over what repairing this car will cost now, if you could actually find someone willing to do the work.

In addition to what was damaged on my car, this 1973 needs dutchman panel, trunk, bumper, taillight, subframe repair, and possible trunk floor repair. After that, it might need to go to a frame shop to get it to align. I think the owner is right to sell for parts.

 

[Triple Pickle]

Depends on the amount of rust. If rust is limited to floors and back of front fenders, I'd rather do the car with rust.

My experience: I had a 1969 Monaco 4 door HT with some of the same damage. Estimate to repair in 2006 was $4000. Depending on labor hours.

My car: 69 Monaco Passenger side rear damaged. DTS axle green bearing scored axle shaft, which broke and wheel came off in wheel well while driving: Trunk extension, full quarter, wheel well, package tray support from wheel well damaged. Dutchman, rear subframe, taillights and taillight panel were OK. I think the full quarter was going to be $1500 with ship. The rest was labor and supplies. The repair cost was more than the full value of the car at the time.

My point is that I could use a shop and this car as a donor and with light rust, I think I could save $ over what repairing this car will cost now, if you could actually find someone willing to do the work.

In addition to what was damaged on my car, this 1973 needs dutchman panel, trunk, bumper, taillight, subframe repair, and possible trunk floor repair. After that, it might need to go to a frame shop to get it to align. I think the owner is right to sell for parts.

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I’m talking about rust ISSUES,man!
Not light body panel rust. If this car is solid, at least there’s something to work with.
Cars that are truly rust-free are a rare find these days. And most that appear to only have light rust have more hidden in places that you can’t immediately see until you tear into them. Also, I’m talking about doing it myself, not hiring it done. Paying someone else to restore a car for you is best reserved for folks who don’t need to ask how much it going to cost. Did I mention I hate rust?

 

[1970FuryConv]

I’m talking about rust ISSUES,man!
Not light body panel rust. If this car is solid, at least there’s something to work with.
Cars that are truly rust-free are a rare find these days. And most that appear to only have light rust have more hidden in places that you can’t immediately see until you tear into them. Also, I’m talking about doing it myself, not hiring it done. Paying someone else to restore a car for you is best reserved for folks who don’t need to ask how much it going to cost. Did I mention I hate rust?

If you have the body work and welding skills necessary to fix this hit 73 Fury, my hat is off to you.

I pay for body work and paint. Like many people here, age is a problem that causes me to farm out work that I don't want to do.

 

[traintech55]

It is a shame you cannot find a good frame shop to repair it. The frame can't that far out of whack. The glass didn't break, and the deck lid is not that bad. Oh how I wish I had access to a frame machine. (Edit), I just checked, Dessert Valley Auto has one with the complete back end.

 

[Mid70's Chrysler Fanatic]

All the doors open and close. The right rear is a little stubborn, but it does open and close.

That says something about how these things were built.

 

[Triple Pickle]

If you have the body work and welding skills necessary to fix this hit 73 Fury, my hat is off to you.

I pay for body work and paint. Like many people here, age is a problem that causes me to farm out work that I don't want to do.

I’m old and give out too. I farm out my machine work and engine assembly, as well as transmission rebuilding. This car would make a great parts car, no doubt.
The rust I’m talking about is rust beyond the scope of “body work and paint”. Think firewall, rear frame rails, around windows, behind kick panels, ext. I love C-bodies but there’s not many that are worth what it would cost to have one professionally painted the right way. Especially if even minor bodywork is required.
I’m not a pro body man by any means but I am a welder. Welding involves molecular attraction, two like metals are attracted to one another and are easily bonded. Steel doesn’t bond to rust. Most of these cars you see like these, if you remove the rust there just isn’t much left to work with.

 

[Dano1973]

Waste of a really nice 4dr.cost more to fix it than to parts it out,sorry to say.