383 broken manifold heat control valve

Good luck!

It's really quite a simple thing to diagnose, and people can get all worried about it, but it's really one way or the other... and it's fairly easy once one understands how it works to figure out the position.

Looking forward to hearing your findings tomorrow!
 
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Good luck!

It's really quite a simple thing to diagnose, and people can get all worried about it, but it's really one way or the other... and it's fairly easy once one understands how it works to figure out the position.

Looking forward to hearing your findings tomorrow!
Correct. I figure I got a 50% shot. Those are really good odds. I’ll update you tomorrow.
 
I drove my Newport This morning with the exhaust heat riser temporary early wire, tied all the way clockwise position. I think that’s gonna be the correct position classified is open. I’m still going to do more testing. I’m gonna reverse it to counter clockwise in my spare time. I did notice an improvement and off the line, acceleration. And acceleration in general, it doesn’t seem to labor. To be continued. Thank you everybody for your input. And understand this is a 400 for barrel all original with the high-performance top notch lien burn system.
 
I drove my Newport This morning with the exhaust heat riser temporary early wire, tied all the way clockwise position. I think that’s gonna be the correct position classified is open. I’m still going to do more testing. I’m gonna reverse it to counter clockwise in my spare time. I did notice an improvement and off the line, acceleration. And acceleration in general, it doesn’t seem to labor. To be continued. Thank you everybody for your input. And understand this is a 400 for barrel all original with the high-performance top notch lien burn system.
 
I drove my Newport This morning with the exhaust heat riser temporary early wire, tied all the way clockwise position. I think that’s gonna be the correct position classified is open. I’m still going to do more testing. I’m gonna reverse it to counter clockwise in my spare time. I did notice an improvement and off the line, acceleration. And acceleration in general, it doesn’t seem to labor. To be continued. Thank you everybody for your input. And understand this is a 400 for barrel all original with the high-performance top notch lien burn system.
 
I have completed my temporary exhaust heat riser valve position. I rotated the weight all the way clockwise. And have test driven it on the highway from the past 2 to 3 days. So far so good it seems to be in the open position. The car is not running warm. it is not sluggish.

Any input or experience from anybody as welcomed. Next I’m going to using infrared light, temperature light just to verify before I make a permanent position locked in. I feel that my 400 lean burn Newport is ready for the dragstrip.

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If anyone feels I have the heat riser in the incorrect position, please advise. I’m not delicate I can except critical logical thinking.

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Thanks Ross. Driver Quality

I’m contemplating just removing the heat rising valve and tapping the shaft putting plugs in. Has anybody achieved that her tried it while still in the car? Is there an easy way to cut it out from the outside and then pull it down? Obviously, I know I gotta disconnect the exhaust from the why pipe
 
I would venture to say it's easier just to wire it in the open position. Not a lot of room to manoever a driller and a bit designed to cut hardened steel... and then dealing with the bolts for the Y pipe to the manifold, and needing potentially a new exhaust seal there too...
 
I would venture to say it's easier just to wire it in the open position. Not a lot of room to manoever a driller and a bit designed to cut hardened steel... and then dealing with the bolts for the Y pipe to the manifold, and needing potentially a new exhaust seal there too...
Very logical. I will heed your warning. OK I’m just gonna cruise is baby around like it’s 1985 when I was in my prime.
 
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