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Bayoulee

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Header shopping, and the only place I have had a response so far is Chrysler Power for the TTI headers. Ceramic coated with shipping is around $1100. Any other suggestions or any feedback on these guys?
Thanks-
 
About the only one I would go with is TTI if I was ever to consider headers.
 
TTI doesnt sell directly to the public so whoever you use for a dealer generally wont have them in stock and will just drop ship them from TTI in california...hence the shipping charge...at least they have the rest of the system designed to mate to their headers ... if you use another brand now you have to fab an exhaust...got my system from Marsh here in N.C. idk if his prices are any lower than Chrysler Power...my system is for HP manifolds so cant comment on fit and finish of their headers
 
TTI doesnt sell directly to the public so whoever you use for a dealer generally wont have them in stock and will just drop ship them from TTI in california...hence the shipping charge...at least they have the rest of the system designed to mate to their headers ... if you use another brand now you have to fab an exhaust...got my system from Marsh here in N.C. idk if his prices are any lower than Chrysler Power...my system is for HP manifolds so cant comment on fit and finish of their headers
How were the hangers?
Do you have a link for the Marsh kit you used?
I will be using HP manifolds on 71 SF GT eventually. Would like other options besides TTI.
 
TTI doesnt sell directly to the public so whoever you use for a dealer generally wont have them in stock and will just drop ship them from TTI in california...hence the shipping charge...at least they have the rest of the system designed to mate to their headers ... if you use another brand now you have to fab an exhaust...got my system from Marsh here in N.C. idk if his prices are any lower than Chrysler Power...my system is for HP manifolds so cant comment on fit and finish of their headers
I called tti directly and placed my order, twice.

But, yes, if you order through a dealer, Summit, Mancini, etc, they place an order with tti and they ship them from their factory.
 
Headers don't sell for $89 anymore?

Biggest pain in the @ss I've ever seen, headers... not worth it.

Buddy of mine paid me to install some headers in his '70 Challenger with small block.
Had to disconnect the steering tie rod on one side and run it through the header, and then his starter cooked all the time and he wanted me to change it, which I remember meant having to pull the header.

Not for me.

Factory HP manifolds are a beautiful thing. I had the heat riser blasted out of mine on Roadrunner, brazed up the holes, port matched to the heads, painted them high temp ceramic white.

This is back when people were buying headers like crazy and factory manifolds were considered scrap metal by most gearheads.
 
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Headers don't sell for $89 anymore?

Biggest pain in the @ss I've ever seen, headers... not worth it.

Buddy of mine paid me to install some headers in his '70 Challenger with small block.
Had to disconnect the steering tie rod on one side and run it through the header, and then his starte cooked all the time and he wanted me to change it, which I remember meant having to pull the header.

Not for me.

Factory HP manifolds are a beautiful thing. I had the heat riser blasted out of mine on Roadrunner, brazed up the holes, port matched to the heads, painted them high temp ceramic white.

This is back when people were buying headers like crazy and factory manifolds were considered scrap metal by most gearheads.
Agree. I'm putting HP manifolds on my 71 Fury for that reason.
(Already have HP manifolds on my 70 Fury)
 
no clue on the hangers as the engine still isnt back in the car...i think most of the complaints are on the later cars, not the slab sides like mine...compared to what i just had to do to put an engine pipe in my jetta whatever they send should be good enough to cut up and start over...LocuMob what i was driving at was it's probably straight list price from TTI themselves but you might be able to get a discount depending on which dealer you use...
 
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LocuMob what i was driving at was it's probably straight list price from TTI themselves but you might be able to get a discount depending on which dealer you use...
When I bought mine, they were the same price at all vendors.
 
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Headers don't sell for $89 anymore?

Biggest pain in the @ss I've ever seen, headers... not worth it.

Buddy of mine paid me to install some headers in his '70 Challenger with small block.
Had to disconnect the steering tie rod on one side and run it through the header, and then his starter cooked all the time and he wanted me to change it, which I remember meant having to pull the header.

Not for me.

Factory HP manifolds are a beautiful thing. I had the heat riser blasted out of mine on Roadrunner, brazed up the holes, port matched to the heads, painted them high temp ceramic white.

This is back when people were buying headers like crazy and factory manifolds were considered scrap metal by most gearheads.

There is a reason Tti headers cost what they do. They fit with zero drama as do their exhaust systems.

My buddy has a complete system, headers to tailpipes on his 66 Fury ragtop. All the hangers bolted into place and the pipes all met them as they should. Originally a single exhaust 383 car, the new pipes look like they grew there. Perfect fit. Took an afternoon.

Kevin
 
the problem is we all grew up with those $89 headers...take the engine halfway out to install, always had to dimple something that didnt clear, fried starters, collectors hung so low you knocked the mufflers off,plugs impossible to change, blew the asbestos gaskets every couple months, rotted out in a couple years...i'm sure the hi dollar stuff with thick flanges thats currently available is great but we're afraid to spend a grand to find out
 
Headers don't sell for $89 anymore?

Biggest pain in the @ss I've ever seen, headers... not worth it.

Buddy of mine paid me to install some headers in his '70 Challenger with small block.
Had to disconnect the steering tie rod on one side and run it through the header, and then his starter cooked all the time and he wanted me to change it, which I remember meant having to pull the header.

Not for me.

Factory HP manifolds are a beautiful thing. I had the heat riser blasted out of mine on Roadrunner, brazed up the holes, port matched to the heads, painted them high temp ceramic white.

This is back when people were buying headers like crazy and factory manifolds were considered scrap metal by most gearheads.
I found some HP manifolds on craigslist but they are a ways away and one had been patched. Also werent off a cbody. Thoughts?
 
Heres the ad.

98C86B9E-005B-4319-BFA2-63D31C744629.png
 
Also werent off a cbody. Thoughts?

Well since a C body is bigger than a B body which bigger than an A body, logic would dictate - my inner Spock - that B body manifolds should fit just fine. I personally wasn't aware of C body HP manifolds and what about them makes them different, but by comparison the A body manifolds are made to work in a very cramped space.
 
Right side B and E body will work on C body.
Left side B and E Body will not work on C Body. Left side C Body is unique.
I would pass on all the RH manifolds with cracks unless you want to hire a welder.
2806900 is RH manifold, works on B C E bodies with big block
2843882-2 is LH manifold for B body.
Personally, I would use the search function on FCBO and look up exhaust manifold casting numbers. Then I would buy both sides individually off ebay.
 
Left side C Body is unique.

Left side meaning drivers side always.

I would pass on all the RH manifolds with cracks unless you want to hire a welder.

The D side exhaust manifold - left side - I prefer using Driver/Passenger designation, because many or most novices have it backwards, on my Ex Fish & Game '70 Power Wagon 383/4sp/10,000lb Braden LU-2 has a pretty long crack, looks just like a crack in the middle of the manifold, which doesn't really scare me at all.

Cast Iron is actually quite easy to weld if you do it right, and the rods available now - $$$ - are very very good.

Yes, rods, you won't be doing this with a wire feed.

I'm not sure I'm hearing any exhaust through the crack, and these things are always louder on start up, shutting with heat expansion to some degree.

Talk to local welding shops about this type of repair in advance, small ones, until you find the right guy, and then treat that guy like gold. Bring him a 6 pack when he's done, if applicable.
 
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