66 VIP BRAKE CONVERSION

kmackenzie1104

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Looking to do brake conversion on my 66 VIP. Any suggestions where and what to get? New to Mopar world so i am not very educated yet. Thank you for any help.
 
I assume your want to do the disc brake conversion. You will need a '68-'70 Bendix dual diaphragm booster (Some '71 C-Bodies also use this booster as did some cars with the police or heavy tow option until '72) A '67-'73 dual pot master cylinder. '69-'73 spindles, rotors and calipers. You will also need new brake hoses and a disc brake proportioning valve to rebalance the brake system. You will also need the appropriate tubing to convert to the disc brake system and hook up the dual pot master cylinder and proportioning valve. If the car currently has manual brakes, you will also need a power brake pedal and its mounting bracket. Note that if you source '73 spindles, they have a larger diameter inner bearing so you would need to use the '73 rotors as well.

Dave
 
There is simpler path to better braking - however the old coots on here are stubborn and refuse to embrace the simple concept of upgrading the linings to modern brake lining materials and making sure the shoes are arc'd properly to fit the drums for full shoe contact etc. Do not use asbestos linings or ones you buy on line!!! Junk!

I have upgraded too many cars over the last 25 years with velvetouch, semi metallics and now carbon metallic linings. Velvetouch were the best ever now made of unobtanium. The car will STOP with the proper linings. You require a clutch and brake remanufacturer to assit you in getting the proper linings and set up the drums/shoes. If you need real mopar help Rochester Clutch and Brake Rochester NY is known to speak mopar.
 
I would do a quick Google search for reviews on that clown before I wasted any time or money there.
I've seen his performances at Carlisle. Complete Gongshow.

Kevin
lol might be a good call. I stumbled onto his site recently, looked good but never bought anything but the reviews you spoke of would have me a little nervous.
 
you might try contacting this guy if you want a factory type setup

Ram Man / Helpful Videos / Brake Boosters

I would do a quick Google search for reviews on that clown before I wasted any time or money there.
I've seen his performances at Carlisle. Complete Gongshow.

Kevin

lol might be a good call. I stumbled onto his site recently, looked good but never bought anything but the reviews you spoke of would have me a little nervous.
From what I've seen of the Ram Man, he's pretty knowledgeable, but kind of a flake.

I've never done business with him... But seeing a few of his videos where he bitches about customers and it's pretty clear to me that he's not very professional and I think has a couple loose screws... I did read he had some traumatic brain injuries from a motorcycle accident, so maybe there's some reason, but if that's the case, he needs to have someone else run the customer service side of the house and stay off social media.

He did some spindles for C-body disc brakes and that failed pretty miserably from what I've read on this forum.

He does have some really good informational videos though... I quote his proportioning valve video all the time.... Best info I've ever heard on that.
 
That is a beautiful VIP! If you go to a disc set up you will loose the factory 14 inch hubcaps because all disc brake conversions require you to go to a 15 inch wheel. Dual master cylinder is a must do upgrade.
 
There is simpler path to better braking - however the old coots on here are stubborn and refuse to embrace the simple concept of upgrading the linings to modern brake lining materials and making sure the shoes are arc'd properly to fit the drums for full shoe contact etc. Do not use asbestos linings or ones you buy on line!!! Junk!

I have upgraded too many cars over the last 25 years with velvetouch, semi metallics and now carbon metallic linings. Velvetouch were the best ever now made of unobtanium. The car will STOP with the proper linings. You require a clutch and brake remanufacturer to assit you in getting the proper linings and set up the drums/shoes. If you need real mopar help Rochester Clutch and Brake Rochester NY is known to speak mopar.
I considered the same thing (switching to disc brakes) on my '67 New Yorker, and realized that switching to better shoes/linings, and good "re-surfacing" of the drums, etc., makes them work much better than before. Worth pursuing before making a hasty decision for an expensive upgrade. It also allowed me to keep using the existing 14 in. wheels, and the wheel covers I have gotten quite fond of........
The type of driving you do is also a factor, but considering the other options before just switching never hurts.

NOS hubcaps.jpg
 
There is simpler path to better braking - however the old coots on here are stubborn and refuse to embrace the simple concept of upgrading the linings to modern brake lining materials and making sure the shoes are arc'd properly to fit the drums for full shoe contact etc. Do not use asbestos linings or ones you buy on line!!! Junk!

I have upgraded too many cars over the last 25 years with velvetouch, semi metallics and now carbon metallic linings. Velvetouch were the best ever now made of unobtanium. The car will STOP with the proper linings. You require a clutch and brake remanufacturer to assit you in getting the proper linings and set up the drums/shoes. If you need real mopar help Rochester Clutch and Brake Rochester NY is known to speak mopar.

In principle I agree with you - maximizing the efficacy of the current drum system is a worthwhile and potentially cost effective first step.

Proper shoes, good drums, quality and functional hardware and most importantly, arcing of the shoes to fit the drums is the way to go... the drum system (when properly set up) is excellent - albeit with attendant limitations. It depends on the intended usage of the vehicle, and what the driver's expectations are.

However, I am one of those "old coots":) who will among be the first to recommend a disc conversion for the following reasons:

1) Proper setting up of drum systems is a dying art (sadly), and often people don't have the knowledge or time to beat the bushes searching for someone who has the tools and experience and takes the time to do it properly.

Disc systems are much more user friendly to techs getting it right the first time more often. Drums take practise, and can be a death trap if not installed right.

2) Disc systems are clearly superior to ANY drum system when multiple hard braking situations occur, especially on the highway.
Drum brake fade is the single most compelling reason that car companies switched to discs, as traffic density on highways increased dramatically through the 60s 70s and 80s.

Now it's just ludicrous. No one leaves enough space any more. If you do, they just fill it up anyhow. One needs to be able to brake hard OFTEN, with confidence and consistency.

As well, hilly terrain, trailers and other heavy load situations are scenarios where discs are superior.

I agree, a good drum brake system on a car that is rarely driven (say to a couple of weekly cruise nights in town), is fine. But many of us are regularly driving our cars quite far, on superhighways, at speeds where braking with repeated confidence is critical.

Drums, however good they are, cannot provide that. If they could, we'd never have switched to discs.

Couple all the above with a novice driver who expects modern car braking from a badly setup drum system on a 5,000 lb car is a recipe for a write off, or worse.

My T&C has excellent braking from its retrofitted disc setup. I've driven drum brake cars all my life, and always made sure that the system was in excellent setup - if anyone serviced my brakes the had to show me they arced the shoes. My T&C hands down outbrakes them all.

Most places don't even have an arcing machine any more.
 
That is a beautiful VIP! If you go to a disc set up you will loose the factory 14 inch hubcaps because all disc brake conversions require you to go to a 15 inch wheel. Dual master cylinder is a must do upgrade.
Good point. May stay original except cylinder. Based on its current shape i would like to keep as stock as possible.
 
I was doing research for my 1966 Fury and it seemed to me that no body on the internet has more videos and information about Mopar brakes than The Ram Man.
After watching several videos I gave him and a call and he answered all of my questions regarding front disc brakes on my 66. I bought a complete factory original disc brake kit from him. It included the spindles, brackets, rebuilt calipers, rotors, bearings, and everything.

I bolted everything up and it fit and works great. plus there were no aftermarket parts at all.

It met my expectations and then some, my brakes are fantastic even my wife feels safe driving it now.

FYI, The Ram Man uses the factory rotors and pads so I can get them locally. Even though I will probably never have to replace the rotors and pads because I'm old and I don't believe I will put another 50,000 miles on this car.

Here is the link
C-BODY (1965-1973) FRONT DISC KIT (Standard Rotors)
 
There is nobody with more info and videos of MOPAR brakes on the web, that is fact(621) All the knowledge is free and correct. He also provides more MOPAR (factory)brake components than anyone else. He has done more hemi ( million dollar cars) brake systems, booster,master,than anyone on planet by a factor of 50. The last count is 511, the count only started 2008, for fun,that is fact. The videos are all facts. Here is a secret,all of the 2nd gen boosters, master cylinders, that have flooded the internet for the b and e bodies he developed, they landed Christmas Eve 2012. They are all distributed by one co.He has had the second gen c body and imperial ,complete power unit,master ,booster , and firewall plate since 2014. the correct rear rod is installed for the model and year. The original tandem bendix was introduced on the imperial in 1962 to push the first ever huge 1.25 bore drum master. The 1.25 bore was largest ever used on auto,big trucks used that sizeThere is 7 different length rods used on that booster, from 62 to 70 The full size , c body and imperial 2nd gen power brake unit has never been advertised. Don’t have too, he sells to many. I taught him much ,uncle Ron.
He surpassed my knowledge decades ago. I started rebuilding boosters in Dallas in 1971. People have flown him in to fix their brakes , panicking because the car was due at auction in days.1 million 1.5 million that 3.2 million( that one in 2006, highest ever paid for MOPAR or hemi cuda…limelight convertible white top convertible.the list is long. He is also responsible for a large portion of the factory style disc conversions on the inter web. I’m not even going to mention the fords and boss 429. The first in the world to supply those boosters and masters. 900 thousand , 1.0 million triple black boss 9. The flew him out to fix, diagnose, and he did it for free. They were going to famous auction in 4 days. His dad is dead . But I’m proud of him, every now and then he mentions me in booster videos. He will probably be furious with me.
 
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