68 Dash Pad Swap
- Thread starter Kooka
- Start date
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1967_Polara_Monaco_Service_Manual.zip
This would be my first stop.
Don't see a '68 listed but should be close.
This would be my first stop.
Don't see a '68 listed but should be close.
When I replaced my dash pad I discovered the simplest route was to pull thed entire dash as a unit. In the '70 the dash sits on two bolts down in the foot well, plus 4 screws in the defroster vents and two screws in at the top accessed from the door jam. Unbolt the steering wheel to lower dash bracket, removed the 6 screws and loosen the two bolts to swing the dash towards the set. Unplug the speedometer cable, wiring harness and heater control cables, then lift the whole thing out. it's actually a lot easier that it sounds.
Has anyone done this on a '68?
Has anyone done this on a '68?
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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I did a 68 years ago. I don't remember the particulars, but I remember thinking it was pretty easy.
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
Replaciing the dash pad in a 68 C can be done albeit the screws are facing the firewall.
Which means almost all the dash has to be taken apart.
As Bill mentioned, it is much easier to do it with the dash frame out of the car..
Problem is 68's you need to remove the windshield to get the bottom bolts out.
So damned if you do and damned if you dont pull the entire dash to replace the pad.
Either way top up the first aid kit to keep up with the sharp edges as you work like a circus monkey. Lol!!
Which means almost all the dash has to be taken apart.
As Bill mentioned, it is much easier to do it with the dash frame out of the car..
Problem is 68's you need to remove the windshield to get the bottom bolts out.
So damned if you do and damned if you dont pull the entire dash to replace the pad.
Either way top up the first aid kit to keep up with the sharp edges as you work like a circus monkey. Lol!!
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
Years ago I did both a 70 Polara and 68 Monaco. I recall having to be a bit of a contortionist but there is no need to remove the full frame or the windshield. Service manuals were what I used for guidance.
On my 68 Polara I was able to get the whole dash out with the window in. But the bolts at the bottom of the windshield were a bear. I think I modified an end wrench to get them out. My windshield was out when I put it back in though. It would be tough to start the fasteners.
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
The diagram shows you approximate fastener locations. Get your hand up in there and you can feel where they are. A headband lamp will come in handy. Also go to the drug store and pick up some Aleve for your back. You'll need it.
Maybe get a tetanus shot for all the cuts and scratches you will get on both arms. Young children with tender ears should also be kept well clear of your work area!
When you understand how the cars were assembled at the factory, many times you can understand what it takes to replace things on them. The instrument panel assembly is done "off-line" so they walk it into the interior (which is not yet installed) and put the bolts/fasteners in to put the whole thing in place at once. Works pretty slick! When we did the Superbird, that's how we did it. Then did the hookups for the electricals, defroster tubes, etc. As mentioned, the front seat was not installed, so working room was much improved. MUCH better than laying on your back in the floorboards! Having some good help is important!
CBODY67
CBODY67
John Kirby
Active Member
Cbody67 is right. When I did the dash in my 66 NYer I had the car stripped down to a shell. Painted the firewall, window channel and door mounting area. Then installed the heater box and brake hardware. Then put the dash in as an assembly. My exwife helped me put it in place and my son installed the screws on top. Then the steering column was bolted in and everything was nearly complete. Took the dash apart and painted it while it was out of the car. Made the resto job a lot easier in this area. Putting all this back in took less than an hour. My goal was to quickly get the car back in moveable condition. Once the firewall was done the front frame was reinstalled along with the engine. Put the exhaust back on and on to the rear end disassembly and cleanup.
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