72 Fury - Task One: Fix Brakes

[Analog Kid]

So I've had my '72 fury for a little over two weeks now and have done some minor work to it. Got a new battery, new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap but now I am about to begin the first major task of my project. Fixing the brakes.

Turns out the calipers are seized....it had been sitting for 10 years so I guess that was to be expected. I went ahead and ordered new calipers, shoes and brake lines as well as the field service manuals. I don't have the manuals yet but I got anxious this weekend and went ahead and started taking things apart. I want to get the rotors off so that I can get them checked out in case I need to replace them. My question is: What is this piece in the picture that is between the dust cap and the rotor? Is that part of the hub?

What's confusing is that when I see pictures of new rotors for this vehicle it doesn't seem to look the same as what I have here.

 

[live4theking]

I'm not able to answer that question for you, but I have a suggestion for you. If you're going to replace your hardlines (metal), which I would recommend, I would use ni-copp to make the lines. It is a bit more expensive, but way easier to work with to bend and flare and there is no worry about it ever rusting.

Someone will surely answer your question about the rotor.

 

[Big_John]

Download a FSM here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Rotor and hub are one piece.

 

[saforwardlook]

The hub and rotor assembly on your car are the original non-separable two piece units whereas the aftermarket replacement rotors are an integrated one piece design. They interchange just fine (and the replacement ones are made in China more than likely, but they seem to be OK).

 

[Analog Kid]

I'm not able to answer that question for you, but I have a suggestion for you. If you're going to replace your hardlines (metal), which I would recommend, I would use ni-copp to make the lines. It is a bit more expensive, but way easier to work with to bend and flare and there is no worry about it ever rusting.

Someone will surely answer your question about the rotor.

Looks like I will need to replace the hard lines - at least one. The front left lines tip broke off when I tried to take off the flexible hose. Question about the NiCopp lines - do I need 3/16" or 1/4"? It looks like you can get them pre-tipped and flared but not sure what size will fit. This one is the shortest line so maybe 20"? I didn't see anything in the FSM that shows how long each line is.

 

[celticwarlock]

Buy the tubing in the longest lengths possible (some places sell it rolled up) and cut it to size. If you can't get it in rolls, then use unions to screw large pieces together. 3/32" is the size LINE you'll need, not 3/16" or 1/4". The FITTINGS are measured differently (I forget exactly what their dimensions are).

 

[Analog Kid]

Actually I went ahead and bought a set of pre-bent stainless steel lines from the Right Stuff. The set includes both front lines and the ones from master cylinder. I figure all of them could use to be replaced.

My task has also expanded in another direction. Once I got the rotor and caliper off I kept staring at the suspension parts and decided that now would be the best time to rebuild what I can. Doesn't look like anything has been touched in 45 years. So I bought the rebuild kit from PST and embarked on the arduous journey of disassembling the suspension.

Went by the book for most of it and used the two hammer method to get the upper ball joint out but now I'm working on the lower ball joint. Trying to use the pickle forks but it ain't happening. Question - will the two hammer method work as well for the lower ball joint? Or should I get some type of puller tool for this?

Also - I'm trying to get the strut rod out but turning the nut at the front just turns the whole rod. I put the nut back on at the control arm to try and keep it steady and have been spraying it with PB Buster but still nothing. Any tricks here? Or should I just be more persistent?