74 Monaco Coupe

[1978 NYB]

Looking at the pictures again. Those door panels have been off obviously....did you find any of the hardware laying on the floor or in the ash tray to put the straps back on the door panel. This car could of had electric windows originally. Probably the best thing you can do to start is find the Field Service manuals on EBay. There are 2 of them. Electrical and Chassis. That will educate you quickly on how stuff works. You can get them pretty cheap. You will need a parts book too if you plan on keeping the car.

You can also get a paper copy of the FSM's and a parts book or a CD from

Bishko Books, Repair Manuals, Owners Manuals, Parts Books & Sales Brochures

 

[CBODY67]

I drove a couple of '75 Gran Furys as rental cars, back then, at a former job. The 360 is a good general drive-around engine in those cars, but a 400 2bbl it's not. Ultimate highway mpg might be a little better, but even that can be a variable depending upon how things are set-up. If you see the lh outer turn signal indicator (on the top of the fender, if equipped) come on, that's the Fuel Pacer saying "too much throttle".

Now, if you add a 4bbl, then the top end would be more 400 than 360, I suspect. But that can come later. Put some Gorilla Tape over those lower back window "water" holes, for now (and a little later, too).

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[78Brougham]

I'm not sure. I think it's a manual window car and that spot is for an electronic lock switch because there are square, silver emblems on the door that say 'Electronic Locks', but I can't find any switches for them. I'm trying to find some pictures of other people's interiors to see what I can find out.

Your car definitely had power windows, or so the door panels would indicate. The one on the drivers side is rectangular shaped for the row of switches to work all 4 windows. The passenger is just square for that doors window only. Are the rears converted also?
Get a pic of the fender tag, someone here will decode it.
As far as the locks, they had a strange setup for a couple of years, to lock all the doors you would push and hold the door knob down, it would engage a momentary switch and boom they would all lock, the opposite to unlock them. The switch felt really spongy but the worked.
Good luck with your resto. Would make a great undercover detective car imo.
I've got a factory 360 4bbl in my '78 NYB. Plenty of power for that car. If it runs good I'd put my money into other things for now.

 

[1978 NYB]

Your car definitely had power windows, or so the door panels would indicate. The one on the drivers side is rectangular shaped for the row of switches to work all 4 windows. The passenger is just square for that doors window only. Are the rears converted also?
Get a pic of the fender tag, someone here will decode it.
As far as the locks, they had a strange setup for a couple of years, to lock all the doors you would push and hold the door knob down, it would engage a momentary switch and boom they would all lock, the opposite to unlock them. The switch felt really spongy but the worked.
Good luck with your resto. Would make a great undercover detective car imo.
I've got a factory 360 4bbl in my '78 NYB. Plenty of power for that car. If it runs good I'd put my money into other things for now.

That's why I said someone might of replaced the door panels (at least the lower pieces) it has the slot for 4 window switches on the driver door......this is a coupe. Only 2 windows open on a coupe. So there is a possibility this car never had power windows.

 

[jason99]

Looking at the pictures again. Those door panels have been off obviously....did you find any of the hardware laying on the floor or in the ash tray to put the straps back on the door panel. This car could of had electric windows originally. Probably the best thing you can do to start is find the Field Service manuals on EBay. There are 2 of them. Electrical and Chassis. That will educate you quickly on how stuff works. You can get them pretty cheap. You will need a parts book too if you plan on keeping the car.

You can also get a paper copy of the FSM's and a parts book or a CD from

Bishko Books, Repair Manuals, Owners Manuals, Parts Books & Sales Brochures

Understood on having to do something with the transmission to go to a big block. That's so far down the road I'm not thinking much of it.

I did not find any hardware to reattach the straps. I'd agree that the panels have been off in some capacity at some point.

Thanks for the pointer on the FSM and parts book. I have a Chiltons manual, but that looks like it won't be detailed enough.

 

[jason99]

I drove a couple of '75 Gran Furys as rental cars, back then, at a former job. The 360 is a good general drive-around engine in those cars, but a 400 2bbl it's not. Ultimate highway mpg might be a little better, but even that can be a variable depending upon how things are set-up. If you see the lh outer turn signal indicator (on the top of the fender, if equipped) come on, that's the Fuel Pacer saying "too much throttle".

Now, if you add a 4bbl, then the top end would be more 400 than 360, I suspect. But that can come later. Put some Gorilla Tape over those lower back window "water" holes, for now (and a little later, too).

Enjoy!
CBODY67

It does have the hood mounted turn signal indicators, which are one of my favorite details. I may have to gorilla tape the whole frame around the back window to prevent water from running down into the holes as well as it just raining directly into them. Ideally though, I can just get it in the garage.

 

[1978 NYB]

Understood on having to do something with the transmission to go to a big block. That's so far down the road I'm not thinking much of it.

I did not find any hardware to reattach the straps. I'd agree that the panels have been off in some capacity at some point.

Thanks for the pointer on the FSM and parts book. I have a Chiltons manual, but that looks like it won't be detailed enough.

I don't know what you are going to find if you take the door panels off. Probably wont have window motors if the hand cranks open and closes the window. But if they are there....make sure you read and understand the procedure for removing window motors in the FSM. Removing the window motors can be very dangerous....losing fingers dangerous if you don't follow the instructions in the FSM.

 

[1978 NYB]

Yep transmission bell housings are different but there are plenty of big block transmissions around.

 

[jason99]

Are the rears converted also?
Get a pic of the fender tag, someone here will decode it.

As far as the locks, they had a strange setup for a couple of years, to lock all the doors you would push and hold the door knob down, it would engage a momentary switch and boom they would all lock, the opposite to unlock them. The switch felt really spongy but the worked.
Good luck with your resto. Would make a great undercover detective car imo.
I've got a factory 360 4bbl in my '78 NYB. Plenty of power for that car. If it runs good I'd put my money into other things for now.

The situation with the rear window is squares with the post to attach a crank. I'll get some pictures after work today.

That's a nifty way to run electric locks. I'm definitely not going to be spending on motor until the body and interior are squared away.

 

[jason99]

That's why I said someone might of replaced the door panels (at least the lower pieces) it has the slot for 4 window switches on the driver door......this is a coupe. Only 2 windows open on a coupe. So there is a possibility this car never had power windows.

For what it's worth, it at least looks like the rear windows roll down.

 

[jason99]

I don't know what you are going to find if you take the door panels off. Probably wont have window motors if the hand cranks open and closes the window. But if they are there....make sure you read and understand the procedure for removing window motors in the FSM. Removing the window motors can be very dangerous....losing fingers dangerous if you don't follow the instructions in the FSM.

The hand cranks in the front actually do open and close the front windows. Not sure on the rear since I don't have a spare set of handles for them.

The rear panels look easier to get out than the door panels, but we'll see I guess.

Thanks for the tip on the danger of the window motors.

 

[78Brougham]

"Looking at the pictures again. Those door panels have been off obviously....did you find any of the hardware laying on the floor or in the ash tray to put the straps back on the door panel. This car could of had electric windows originally. Probably the best thing you can do to start is find the Field Service manuals on EBay. There are 2 of them. Electrical and Chassis. That will educate you quickly on how stuff works. You can get them pretty cheap. You will need a parts book too if you plan on keeping the car."


Sorry Bob, did not see your post in time... I'm camping this week and the connection here stinks to say the least. Your post didn't show till later...

 

[CBODY67]

There might be a Chrysler MasterTech video on YouTube showing how to work on the windows. Possibly www.mymopar.com has them?

The issue is the flat coil spring on the regulator. Might be a way to lock the two halves together with a thru-bolt in a guide hole, or similar.

CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

It does have the hood mounted turn signal indicators, which are one of my favorite details. I may have to gorilla tape the whole frame around the back window to prevent water from running down into the holes as well as it just raining directly into them. Ideally though, I can just get it in the garage.

The Fuel Pacer was a vacuum operated switch which turned on the lh frt fdr turn signal indicator light when the manifold vacuum dropped below a certain point. Indicating you were in the "power mixture" and should back out of the throttle for better fuel economy. When the manifold vac increased, the light went out. It was interesting that I could throttle deeper into a 360 without turning on the light, but the 400 2bbl was easier to turn on? It was a popular option, in the "fuel crisis" days, but your car might not have it.

CBODY67

 

[jason99]

Filled it up with coolant, hose clamped the upper radiator hose, and tossed a battery in it today. Lights work, but the car didn't turn over. I started checking things and had to pack it in because it was getting dark.

Came across this gem browsing the mymopar site you listed earlier:


I realized I didn't plug back in any of the underseat wiring after I put the front seat back in. I figured it only lit the seatbelt light and that wasn't a priority. Perhaps tomorrow I'll plug that in and it'll at least turn over.

 

[cantflip]

Understood on having to do something with the transmission to go to a big block. That's so far down the road I'm not thinking much of it.

I did not find any hardware to reattach the straps. I'd agree that the panels have been off in some capacity at some point.

Thanks for the pointer on the FSM and parts book. I have a Chiltons manual, but that looks like it won't be detailed enough.

Chilton books are nice to have... but you need the FSM. Chilton's were good for aftermarket shops because they cost the same as a couple of years coverage in FSM's and covered many cars/years. The nice thing about the Chilton, is along with cherry picking the common use information... they sometimes added "timer saver tips" that actually worked. Take it all with a grain of salt though... I've seen plenty of crappy information in them too.

 

[jason99]

Got it turning over after I found the seatbelt interlock override switch. Fuel is getting to the carb. The fuel pump has some nasty residue in it, but hopefully that'll clean itself out. I got a few puffs after I splashed some gas in the carb. Ran out of daylight before getting any further.

 

[1978 NYB]

Got it turning over after I found the seatbelt interlock override switch. Fuel is getting to the carb. The fuel pump has some nasty residue in it, but hopefully that'll clean itself out. I got a few puffs after I splashed some gas in the carb. Ran out of daylight before getting any further.

1974 was the only year with that seat interlock. So many people complained about it that Chrysler discontinued it after the 1974 models.

 

[BLIMP]

After all the 74 Monaco coupe talk, this thread could use some updating