76 New Yorker Coupe - how do I make my Diff, Limited or Locker.

FarCanal

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G'day Matey's
My Diff is 9.25 or a 9 and a 1/4 in your speak !
I'm guessing from others, and a bit of reading, it's 29 Spline
Gear ratio = NO IDEA (wanting to install 3.23 or 3.5) - I understand this is CrownWheel & Pinion
BUT .........
I wanna "Slippery" as we call them here (LSD or Locker) = me no care which ???
I've got a freshly installed 500+Hp 440 motor in her, and want to put the power to the ground.
What is the Cheapest / Bestest / Gooderest way of doing this ???.
Please advise - all answers GREATLY APPRECIATED & please remember, I live upside down (Aus).
Cheers Fella's - Merry Xmas to all, Big Jim - Adelaide, South Australia - DownUnder
Pic of my Baby, down the local beach, getting a tan !!! lol
NewYorkerSailClub4.jpg
= 1 Owner / 50 Miles / Triple Black = yummmmo
 
The easiest and best way is to order and install a Sure-Grip, which is the original limited slip unit offered by the factory. LSDs from other brands are suitable as well.
The true locking diff. is a chore while turning around corners in a town because it forces the axle shafts to turn exactly the same amount, but the axle shaft on the outer side should turn quicker and more versus the one on the inner side of the turn. I think that yours has a rear gear ratio of either 2.76:1 or 3.21:1, but I know Fuselages better than Formals. BTW, your NYB is gorgeous!

Here´s a Spicer Trak-Lok for the Mopar 9 1/4´´:Mopar 9 1/4" (9.25) Spicer "Trac-Lok" Differential Vendors like Doctor Diff. should be able to ship to DownUnder like they ship to Finland.

Here´s an original 9 1/4´´ with the Sure-Grip:Who wants a new 9 1/4" Sure-grip for 200 bucks?

Cheers!
 
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Thank you for your reply
Unfortunately .... The "Who wants a new 9 1/4 Sure Grip for $200 Bucks " was uploaded / advertised on 30th May 2013 !!! lolololol
The "Spicer" looks like the way to go ..... BUT .... Doesn't say how many Splines / NOR would it handle my Hp
Do I really have to go down the Ford 9" road ???
Hoping to find more help - Anybody - Anwhere - know how to toughen these Diffs ???
Cheers, Big Jim.
P.S. What about the "C' Body Fella out by Route 66, he is supposed to be the GURU on these cars - anyone got a contact email etc
 
Thank you for your reply
Unfortunately .... The "Who wants a new 9 1/4 Sure Grip for $200 Bucks " was uploaded / advertised on 30th May 2013 !!! lolololol
The "Spicer" looks like the way to go ..... BUT .... Doesn't say how many Splines / NOR would it handle my Hp
Do I really have to go down the Ford 9" road ???
Hoping to find more help - Anybody - Anwhere - know how to toughen these Diffs ???
Cheers, Big Jim.
P.S. What about the "C' Body Fella out by Route 66, he is supposed to be the GURU on these cars - anyone got a contact email etc

Thank you for observing it with sharper eyes.
 
[QUOTE="
The "Spicer" looks like the way to go ..... BUT .... Doesn't say how many Splines / NOR would it handle my Hp
Do I really have to go down the Ford 9" road ???
Hoping to find more help - Anybody - Anwhere - know how to toughen these Diffs ???
.
[/QUOTE]

I don't know why you'd think a Furd 9 inch is stronger than a 9.25 Chrysler...because it's not.

Put a stock Sure Grip in it and a 3.23 or 3.21 ring gear if needed (you probably have a 2.76) and you're fine...no need to overthink this.
 
New sure grip units are available all over the place for the 9.25. Doctor Diff has them for $300.

But! The Dana Trac-Lok units are usually 2 pinion units and I understood that those weren't really for high horsepower applications. In fact, Dr. Diff lists them as good for under 350HP, which is even less than what I thought.

So a used unit from a Chrysler is probably not going to cut it.

Best bet is to pony up some more money and start looking at other new units. These are pretty common rear ends in 4WD truck applications, so finding one shouldn't be an issue. It will take more research than asking about it on this forum though. You may have to look at changing axles anyway as a true 500HP in a heavy car may mean they aren't strong enough.

Anything you do here is going to take some $$ for new parts.
 
With that much power and weight, I´d be concerned also about the strength of the axle shafts because 29 spline units aren´t stout.
 
It's NOT about the horsepower, as that only happens well AFTER the car has launched (red light, drag strip tree, or whatever). TORQUE is what moves the car from rest.

I know the Ford 9" has been around a long time and can be built with a multitude of internal guts for the drag racing people. Strange and others can probably build whatever you desire to go into whatever you also desire, BUT they will not be inexpensive in cost either. Not to mention shippini an "oversize" item across the water, if that matters.

What you want, in the type of limited slip differential could well be similar to what GM has been using for years in their pickups. A true locker that has a governor weight that swings out when wheel speed varies a certain amount to lock the axle shafts together. No internal springs, as older-design LSD had.

When they went to this style of locking differential, they stopped using the "PosiTraction" name, but now call it "Locking Differential" in the option list. There could well be some videos on YouTube that were what we were shown in training sessions of how it was better.

One was of competing pickups trying to tow a moderately-size boat up an incline, where one wheel was on a slippery surface and the other wheel wasn't. The Fords and Dodges would only go up about 1/2 way before one wheel would spin and smoke the tire, as the GM pickup continued upward. Another one was where the truck would traverse a concrete gully, with one wheel losing contact with the concrete. The Ford and Dodges needed a tow out of there, but as the GM pickup stopped, the non-contact wheel would spin slowly, then the whole truck would shake, and it'd drive out by itself. A true locker, rather than "limited slip".

The OEM LSDs used springs to keep the clutch plates rubbing against each other, whether 4 smaller springs or one S-shaped spring. The Detroit Lockers were usually in 3/4 and 1-ton pickups, plus some of the higher powered muscle cars of the later '60s and 1970. When wheel speed differential forced the clutch spindle up the ramp, the differential was locked until those forces decreased or were eliminated. A much more severe situation, I suspect.

The spring-loaded "PosiTraction"-style LSDs were "locked until they unlocked", which made for some jumpy tight lh corners in town. The style that I mentioned above, in both the "locker" and normal LSD forms (with the governor weight that determined when to apply the clutches, are "unlocked until they locked".

In the USA, there are SEVERAL rear differential vendors. A good source for shopping information could be www.SummitRacing.com. They should have all of the main brands listed and you can then do internet searches for those respective brands to see which one might be best.

It might be a good idea to contact the posters in here who have 13-second Chryslers (1/4mile) to see what their rear suspension/driveline upgrades were (other than larger tires) to reliably get to that level of drag strip performance in a 4500lb car! Rear springs. Driveshaft and u-joints, too. You will probably need some urethane isolators to replace the ISO-clamp rubber isolators where the axle mounts to the leaf springs, too. Something which was not used until about 1970 on C-body cars the extra rubber rather than a stiff isolator.

AND . . . when you remove the differential to change it to the LSD or locker style, you'll probably want to also put new side bearings with it, plus pinion bearings and such. Then get it all set-up to specs, for the correct gear engagement pattern between the ring gear and pinion gear.

Now, it's time for you to do your Internet Shopping and investigations. Rear axle and driveshaft in particular.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
With that much power and weight, I´d be concerned also about the strength of the axle shafts because 29 spline units aren´t stout.
That's because the 9.25 doesn't use a 29 spline axle.

The 9.25 uses 31 spline axles and 29 spline pinions. IIRC, an 8.25 rear uses 29 spline axles.
 
Thank you for your reply
Unfortunately .... The "Who wants a new 9 1/4 Sure Grip for $200 Bucks " was uploaded / advertised on 30th May 2013 !!! lolololol
The "Spicer" looks like the way to go ..... BUT .... Doesn't say how many Splines / NOR would it handle my Hp
Do I really have to go down the Ford 9" road ???
Hoping to find more help - Anybody - Anwhere - know how to toughen these Diffs ???
Cheers, Big Jim.
P.S. What about the "C' Body Fella out by Route 66, he is supposed to be the GURU on these cars - anyone got a contact email etc
I Googled Chrysler 9.25 sure grip last night and got another ad by @68plymouth383 that he was selling a 9.25 suregrip for $250 die to deadbeat bidders on fleabay. It will fit from 1970 through 2008 alledgedly, search his past posts to find it, or use the search feature twice to get it that way.
 
I think you should first figure out exactly what you have right now....gears? limited-slip ("posi") or not? Definitely contact "Dr Diff" (website - Mopar rear end specialist). Since you are in Australia, rebuilding your 9-1/4" (using Dr Diff's recommendations) will be cheapest.

If you have enough money...I suggest you at least "look" for a Chrysler 8-3/4" rear end, maybe from a '71-'74 B-body & weld in a new set of spring perches? Attached is a chart about rear end dimensions. Mopar Rear Axle Dimensions
I've not had the best of luck with 9-1/4" rear ends (stock setup), so I am a little biased. Other people have built very strong 9-1/4" rear ends
 
I've got a freshly installed 500+Hp 440 motor in her, and want to put the power to the ground.

Love to see the motor and what was done to it.
Seems to me you have alot of motor which is good but I would like to know what you want this large barge to do. Tranny and Torque Converter and rear ratio will play a large roll in your expectations I would think also engine setup ,tires etc.
What do you want is the first question. A 1/4 mile monster?? You are pushing alot of weight.
 
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You would have to do your research, but like Big_John said they used them in the Dodge trucks. 9 1/4's are everywhere around me, check to make sure the spline count is the same, get a used truck diff with sure-grip, gears you want and swap the parts into your case. If it breaks, buy another used one and do it all over again. New parts from the aftermarket wont be any stronger than the used unit.
 
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