Advice needed on two fronts for my '68 300 Convert with the 440

[Saylor300]

I bought Beauty (our name for it) May of last year. Since then, I've replaced the radiator w/ a 4-core, had the transmission fully rebuilt, and a few other more minor fixes. Mechanically, it still needs some exhaust work (crack in h-pipe was "fixed" by previous owner with metal tape), but my main issue is how hard to start the car is. I was going to take her to a big car show that was very close to my home last weekend, and even with a jumper cable to another (running) car, I couldn't get the engine to turn over. Do I need a new starter? I've been thinking about going MSD. Would that help?

Cosmetically, the biggest issue is some of the chrome trim is pitted and the rear bumper is.. well, look at the pic.
Would it be easier / cheaper to find a replacement bumper or get this one stripped and rechromed?

 

[Big_John]

I was going to take her to a big car show that was very close to my home last weekend, and even with a jumper cable to another (running) car, I couldn't get the engine to turn over. Do I need a new starter? I've been thinking about going MSD

First, check the ignition timing. If it's advanced too far, it will be hard to turn over when hot. Even if it checks to spec, try retarding the timing a few degrees anyway and see if it helps.

Stay away from the MSD junk. I used to run their ignitions back when they were made in the US, but the quality has gone down since they started making them offshore plus there's a lot of counterfeit MSD units out there. It's not going to help your problem anyway...

 

[CBODY67]

Look for a good, used core bumper that can be shined-up nicely. Re-man unit would be a 3rd choice, all things considered. On the re-mans, look at the back side to see how many pic marks are on them, to see what they did to "straighten" it. THEN sight down the outer surfaces looking for waves and such. Some are better than others.

What ignition system is on the car now? Points, electronic conversion, etc.? Engine is turned by the starter, but will not fire, or engine will not turn over, no matter what?

Please advise,
CBODY67

 

[JC68vert300]

As for your bumper, the photo only shows a small section, is it rusted through, very dented? Does it just need plating? If you plan to replace it, for your search, the 1968
Chrysler 300, New Yorker and Newport all used the same
rear bumper. I doubt you will find a perfect bumper from a parts car, but you may get lucky. There are still some platers out there, Tri City Plating from Tennessee goes to Spring, Fall and Chrysler Nationals, all at Carlisle. I have seen Paul’s and Librandi’s, both from Pa, at the Corvette Nationals at Carlisle.

 

[Saylor300]

Look for a good, used core bumper that can be shined-up nicely. Re-man unit would be a 3rd choice, all things considered. On the re-mans, look at the back side to see how many pic marks are on them, to see what they did to "straighten" it. THEN sight down the outer surfaces looking for waves and such. Some are better than others.

What ignition system is on the car now? Points, electronic conversion, etc.? Engine is turned by the starter, but will not fire, or engine will not turn over, no matter what?

Please advise,
CBODY67

Running points ATM. Engine has been reluctant to start all along, but last weekend wouldn't turn over at all. "Vrew", not even "vrew-vrew" to use technical terms. Lol.

 

[Saylor300]

As for your bumper, the photo only shows a small section, is it rusted through, very dented? Does it just need plating? If you plan to replace it, for your search, the 1968
Chrysler 300, New Yorker and Newport all used the same
rear bumper. I doubt you will find a perfect bumper from a parts car, but you may get lucky. There are still some platers out there, Tri City Plating from Tennessee goes to Spring, Fall and Chrysler Nationals, all at Carlisle. I have seen Paul’s and Librandi’s, both from Pa, at the Corvette Nationals at Carlisle.

 

[rags]

Running points ATM.

keep the points. i daily drove my '65 for nine years on the set that was in it when i bought the car.

"Vrew"

a lot of things can keep an engine from cranking over. i had a truck that wouldn't crank. alternator was seized and the starter couldn't overcome it.

 

[CBODY67]

Points are fine, no need to change to something else just to get the engine to fire. Condition of the points and related dwell? ONLY set the timing AFTER adjusting the dwell.

CBODY67

 

[volksworld]

tri city quoted me 800-1000 to redo my fury so chrome isnt cheap at the moment

 

[furious70]

Verify condition of battery cables and wires running to starter and starter solenoid. Connections as well.
If starter works, battery is good, then it's in the wires and connections.
The original positive battery cable in my fury lasted until 2016 or so when it finally had corroded so much from the inside out that it wouldn't carry current. I had hot start problems for the preceding decade and could never solve it to I found the cable crumbling

 

[57fury440]

The MSD Streetfire box is made in the U.S.A. I use one with a dual point Mallory Dist. and it works great. In your case I would leave what you have and try to find the problem before changing a lot of parts. Make sure the points are properly set and that your battery cables are good. How old is the starter?

 

[volksworld]

ok if you have a no crank situation...there should be a starter relay on the fenderwell behind the washer bottle...a big red wire goes from the battery cable to a 1/2 inch nut on the relay...below that is a terminal(1/4 or 5/16 nut?) with a black wire that goes to the starter solenoid...if you jump between these 2 terminals the starter should crank...if not, probably bad starter (assuming cables good)...if it cranks by jumping the relay but not with the key lots of possibilities...45 degree plug on relay should be power from key...see if test light lights there when key is turned...if so key circuit ok...the other lower plug is grounded by the neutral safety switch so make sure you have a ground there...if all that is good replace the relay....now if no power from key the switch might be bad or it may not be getting current, usually due to a bad connection at the bulkhead connector on the firewall where the harness from the engine compartment plugs into the harness for the underdash wiring...there are many threads here about bypassing the connections on the bulkhead plug...in addition there is a fusable link in the engine compartment right before the bulkhead on the hot lead coming in from the relay 1/2 nut connector....and if the ammeter has burnt out the key wont get power either...a lot can happen to a car in 55 years so there is a good chance that some of the bulkhead issues have been previously "fixed" (hacked) and their solutions have come back to haunt you..half melted solderless connectors etc

 

[timthomas]

I had an issue with mine.... Used a screwdriver between the neg and pos poles on the ignition relay... car turned over and started right away.... Replaced the ignition relay worked a bit but then stopped... the lockout switch is flakey so it's hit or miss on when the key will work.... installed a push button to the relay.... starts every time now with the button...

 

[Milo]

Put the mini high torque Chrysler starter in it and it will crank over fast for quick starts

 

[volksworld]

for a follow up...dropped my bumpers off at Tri City on 9/14 when i went up there for the Bristol Nascar race...think they called back on the 27th to say they were done...picked them up yesterday...I think that's a world record for chrome shop turnaround...they were 2 grand though...