Ammeter to voltmeter conversion.

celticwarlock

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Greetings.

I know several people have done this in various places and at various times over the years, but I am hoping that somebody has a comprehensive guide available to do this conversion.

I have a few questions regarding this. Can you physically separate the ammeter from the dash cluster? If so, is there a voltmeter that will slip into that place? Are the letters/markings similar to those in other parts of the cluster?

I have already looked into other wiring system upgrades (bulkhead bypass, alternate current paths, solid state voltage regulator, etc.), and I intend to make some of these changes as well, but my main concern is the addition of a voltmeter in the actual cluster. I think you in advance for all useful information.
 
You could pull your amp meter and send it to Shannon Hudson at Redline Gauge Works for conversion. He can create a new face that will match your other gauge faces. I'm sure there are others that can do it but I had good luck with Redline.
 
I bought one of these on Amazon and popped it in my lighter , job done and I can charge my phone
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I’ve had no issues whatsoever. It’s not a high powered electrical tool like a portable air compressor. It charges your phone and has the added feature of a volt meter. It’s a extremely low amp draw item.
 


Yes, I have run across this. There is some decent information in there for sure. The only problem is that my ammeter needle points downward, not upward like the one featured in the article, so I'm not entirely sure what aftermarket gauge I should use.
 
Umm... Do you guys have any idea how much current the real cigar lighter takes to get that coil glowing red and hot enough to light your cigar? I think it's around 10 amps, IIRC.

My '70 Chrysler has a 30 amp breaker for the lighter. I think that's for both front and rear lighters.

I also just said it has a 30 amp breaker... That means you can't really overload that circuit more than the 30 amp breaker is going to let it.

Let's also think about how much current draw that voltmeter has... 2 3.1 amp charging ports and the voltmeter isn't spec'd, but realistically, it's probably less than a 1/10 amp if that. So let's say 6.2 amps and we'll even say .3 amps for the voltmeter, just to round it up. So, we're well short of 10, and really short of 30.
 
Thanks for asking about this. its worth doing if the amp meter is disconnected
 
My solution was to install a lighter socket under the edge of the dash, wired to a "key-on" source. I put a voltage indicator in the socket. The indicator is an inexpensive unit with several LED's that light in sequence with voltage rise. Quick, easy and easily read. Lindsay
 
Is there a thread in this forum for thr removal of the dash cluster?
Since there’s no reply to this question, it’s pretty easy to remove the Fury clusters other than having to disconnect the speedo cable.
Disconnect the battery first though to stop the chances of shorting out any 12v sources
Personal experience taught me that one.
 
Since there’s no reply to this question, it’s pretty easy to remove the Fury clusters other than having to disconnect the speedo cable.
Some cars will require to loosen the steering column clamp to drop it a little.

FWIW, I ran a #6 or #4 ga wire directly from alt to battery on my sig-pic car. It's not fused (but neither is the factory wiring) so I made sure it's well-routed and chaff-protected. It allows some of the charging load that would normally go thru the bulkhead and ammeter to bypass straight to battery. (mid-70s 93-amp (?) square-back alternator)

I also have my headlights running thru relays, triggered by 1 high/low headlight socket (all accomplished underhood).
And my MSD ignition is wired underhood, with a relay triggered by the factory wiring.
Those changes reduced the load on the ammeter circuit, under-dash wiring and ign switch.

IIRC my ammeter still does swing a little, only a needle-width at most, but enough to tell if my charging system is still working.
Some 'experts' might nit-pick my charging wire instead of a full ammeter bypass, but I did all that 15 years ago and have had no problems with any of it. And a helluva lot simpler!

I don't drive that car as much as I used to :( so I generally ignore the ammeter and merely do a DMM checkup on it at the beginning of each season.
 
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