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There you go again. . . Why are you up at 0230 ?!?
Pain management issues.....
Sorry. . . Hope you get relief asap.
Sorry I didn’t reply sooner!!! I mounted the fan there because it’s was the easiest place to do it . One benefit of having the fan mounted on the top part of the rad is the air flows past the intake manifold and carb which helps a great deal in lowering the temperature of the carb . I haven’t had any hard startup issues now since I installed the fan. It seems to have cured the fuel percolation issues I was having when Turning off the engine on a hot day after stop and go traffic.
Thanks. Trying to get through it without Morphine or Oxy.
VERY WELL DONE! If one is going to use a shroud, then yes, do it right as you did. I'm sure those fans draw well too. How many CFM/fan?
My sympathy! I use methadone for that these daze. Don't be hard on yourself. With Dope, there is Hope one can Cope! If you need it to keep PAIN from DRIVING YOU TO DISTRACTION, use it. God made poppy for us as a merciful boon. Man makes crap like methadone and fentanyl. I use methadone in part so I don't have to risk getting killed by chinese fentanyl marketed as "china white" heroin. My prayers to St. Maximilian Mary Kolbe and Saint Mark Ji Tianxiang will mention you. The latter died a junky, but he was right w the Lord.
I also pray to St. Joseph for all mechanical work we do to our C body Mopars!
Dual 1500 CFM.
26" Big Block Mopar Radiator - Dual 11" HP Fans And Aluminum Shroud
I forgot to say that this killer radiator fits B and E bodies. It's about 1.5" not wide enough for a Formal C-body. I had to use aluminum billet plates 1/4" thick and make brackets for both sides. I bolted the plates to the radiator and then mounted it to the core support.
Contact SUM fan company and do some CFM research, and you want a "Puller" NOT a Pusher. Anything including a pusher fan in front of your radiator will block air at speed. You can wire it with some form of thermostat or with an on-off switch. Either way will work, the on-off switch requires a bit more "tending" Talk to their tech people. Talk to Summit racing tech people. You will probably will wind up buying it from Summit anyway and their good folks to deal with. Do the measuring you need to before you call. East to West, North to South and the depth from your pulleys to you radiator. If you do it right you will not need a clutch fan at all, Jer
If I go this route, ditching a fan drawing torque/power off my engine will be THE goal, along w keeping said engine cool. Ergo, dropping the pusher in favor of 1 or several electric pullers will be part of the upgrade for the exact reason you gave. For the present, a pusher serves Mathilda well, given the rarity of highway travel we have.
I will first upgrade the alternator before implementing any such plan. I want PLENTY current available to an electric cooling system, especially one which would be meant to completely supplant the traditional mechanical system. I like the Moroso kit with bracket and DC motor meant to drive a mech water pump. This allows an easy retro-fit back to belt drive off the crank pulley should the DC motor fail. Ideally, I would prefer to use a variable speed DC pump motor, calibrated for volume flow appropriate to temperature, and attach such to the Moroso bracket.
W a little extra $, I'll get a good thermostatic switch to provide a ground path for the fan relay, which then can be paralelled in with the toggle switch I use for the present. I LIKE having ultimate control over these basic engine accessory functions. I use a manual choke with my Stromberg WWC 272 carburetor which avails in all sorts of situations in which a standard stove-top spring setup won't. Mind you, any electric water pump MUST be running at a decent speed for basic cooling, so I shan't toggle such if installed.
All these speculations at present are just that. I need $$ to make this stuff happen, and only after more vital projects like a new timing set and distributor, dual pot mech master cylinder.
Then Summit, who like JEGS and Speedway and of course Rock auto all have received my custom may do so again.
But there are NO BETTER forums for my speculations than this one, and no better folk to revolve such thoughts about with.
I would think you're going to an electric water pump would be over kill. If you want to get exotic go dual pulley water pump and add a reverse pulley and bridge to your alternator from your a/c pulley and you have the whole mess including the PS pump on a 2 grove crank pulley. The amount of power loss with the 440? when you're playing with a 2 ton + ride would be to small to measure? Have fun no matter which you Jump, just have fun with it, Jer
An electric water pump may not be cost effective. But this is why I will calculate the torque required to turn the water pump, and whether its most efficiently delivered by the belt or would I gain an advantage in city traffic by driving the pump electrically. I'm not interested in any weight loss per se, as so many people assume when innovations in cooling get mentioned, but rather de-coupling the delivery of coolant from the direct rotational energy of the engine to an electric source, which will admittedly have to draw more electrical current. Such an increase will require more torque delivered to a more efficient alternator, which, in this second decade of the new millennium drawing to its close, is assuredly available.
THIS is the cost effectiveness equation I must construct and test before actually spending money and sweat on such a conversion. If it isn't worth it, the numbers will tell. The fact that I haven't jumped on this yet arises from my suspicion it won't work... but on a rainy day, I like to work my sums.
You mean you actually get rain in Tucson? lol, I remember they got enough around Buckeye one time when Prescott got dumped on that it took out part of I-10 just west of Buckeye. BTW, Is the "Triple T truck Stop" still in operation as you drop down the hill coming west into Tucson? I miss seeing all those Air Plane tails off to the north coming down that hill, Jer