Attempt to Eliminate PreIgnition

Lots of info here. Don't chase shadows. Your problem is in 3 maybe 4 things to check. Timing, temp, octane, maybe fuel/air ratio.
Fuel/air can be checked with quick plug pull or a finger in the tailpipe. Heavy black soot in plug or in pipe, too much fuel. Very clean white tips on the insulators is maybe too lean. If engine runs okay I doubt this is your issue.
Temp, if it runs normally between 180-190 this is perfect.
Octane, it is a 318 it will run on just about any 87 swill you can buy. Except if it is really carboned up. You can get some cylinder carbon cleaners from a auto parts store, just follow instructions on the can and it will not hurt FWIW.
Timing, you say it is correct but you do not know how to set it (search you tube for videos). I'm going to take a shot from the hip and say something is amiss with your marks or you are looking at it wrong. One solution is to check timing marks for accuracy, but that is involved. Go borrow, rent, or buy a vacuum guage and set the timing and idle mixture screws to the highest reading you can get again see you tube for videos. There is a 1/2" headed bolt on the passenger side of the distributor that holds the bracket down to hold dist, loosen this bolt a little so you can move dist around. Give this a try I'm going to guess someone bumped the timing advanced to get it to run better/smoother to sell to you. You will just have to correct it.
Kinda confusing. Smoother IS generaly more vacuum. With todays fuel, a stock cam could be at 18 -20 degrees at max vacuum. So then with a stock distributor, total is off the charts. If he is not going to check his marks, then maybe he should set the timing at 32 degrees at 3000 rpm, lock it in and see what he has at idle.
 
Kinda confusing. Smoother IS generaly more vacuum. With todays fuel, a stock cam could be at 18 -20 degrees at max vacuum. So then with a stock distributor, total is off the charts. If he is not going to check his marks, then maybe he should set the timing at 32 degrees at 3000 rpm, lock it in and see what he has at idle.
Yes, but timing it to vacuum will negate any error in timing marks, i.e. slipped balancer mismatched parts. If it still pings/knocks with timing set at highest vacuum he can back down from there.
Another point is how old is the gas in the tank? You say you have not run it much so is the gas sitting.
 
Hey I've done some further diagnosing and it seems to disappear at wide open throttle (or maybe I just can't hear it) , which leads me to believe it may be an issue with the vacuum advance?
 
Hey I've done some further diagnosing and it seems to disappear at wide open throttle (or maybe I just can't hear it) , which leads me to believe it may be an issue with the vacuum advance?
Disconnect the vacuum hose and plug it, then try it.
 
You can dribble about a quart of water through the carb at a fast idle. That will break up carbon buildup.

I hear this from older guys alot (no offense, Sir)...and the idea of water flying across the ignition plane just creeps me out.
 
Water/alcohol injection has been used for years in the aircraft industry.
You Dont want to use too much water at a time because you can hydrolock the engine. Rods dont like that.
Get a spray bottle and squirt that down the engine's gullet. Or use carb cleaner.
A stock 318 shouldn't be pinging if its set to spec.
 
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