One problem is that, as I understand it, the "old formula" must be translated into the currently-available pigment formulation. So, getting the "original recipe" and then trying to get the exact pigments to make it would not work, as some or all of the original pigments have been discontinued. Some might have modern equivalents.
Now, if you take the paint on the inner surface of the deck lid, where "the sun didn't shine on it", then do a hand or computer match, with existing pigments and such, it might work decently well.
The other issue is to find a single-stage acrylic enamel to work with, rather than current basecoat/clearcoat paints (which are a bit shinier than the orig paint was, by observation). There is one current brand of paint that still has the single-stage acrylic enamels in its product line. Similar to the old DuPont Centauri acrylic enamel that worked great when your car was new(er). Don't recall the brand, though, but one hot rod resto shop owner mentioned it a while back as being similar to the old DuPont paints.
Another route could be to take an existing color, approximating your B7 color, and then "tint" it to match. In the middle '80s, GM used a BC/CC paint on their Chevy pickups that had softness issues when built. It was supposed to be Chrysler B5 with clearcoat on top of it. So, there might be something similar for B7, down the line.
One thing with many "blue" colors is that some have more of a purple component than "pure blue". So what might look "close" by your eyes, might be really "off" when you put the two colors (orig and proposed) side-by-side.
The other option would be to purchase the paint materials (primers and everything) from the GlobalTCP people. Not sure if they would do international shipping, though. I haven't done business with them, but I believe that others in here might have.
Please keep us posted on your progress.
CBODY67