The ballast resistor is/was critical to point life, takes current down from 12V to around 6V for a smaller spark (and to keep from burning the coil when ignition is left on with points closed, the coil gets HOT!) mitigated by the condenser which is usually junk, over or under spec, one condition causes burning on one side of the points, the other condition the other point face, with resulting pitting on the other side.
It limits current, not voltage some would say, and has differing rates of resistance based upon heat, cold readings of either voltage across or DC resistance are not the whole story.
The dual ballast resistor that has a higher voltage rate to the ignition (8-10V) while cranking (bottom side of the 4 prong resistor) then reverts to the lower voltage for cool running.
I'm not a fan of electronic distributors, fried modules make for very unpleasant situations. From the miserable early days of electronic ignition, it's a wonder Chrysler didn't go bankrupt, cars stalling at lights when warm because of goofy pickup coils going gunnybag when hot.
Later, Mallory Unilite modules were a pain in my rear with balanced blueprinted 383HP in Satellite Sebring Plus.
I prefer to install NOS Mallory K118 points and condenser, will probably never need to be changed again in my lifetime.
The next step is a Mallory dual point, which you can run as a single point no problem, and you get a tight shaft/bushing on needle bearings, plus any advance curve you want, being able to control total advance. And you get rid of the vacuum advance forever, and potential air leak/failure.
If you open your points (from closed) at night w/ key on, you should see a teeny weak red/orange spark. If it's big fat and blue, your points won't last, obviously an under capacity of the condenser to control the spark.