Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
From research I've done on my '70, from $600-$1250, depending on quality.
Bastardized 1959 "Coronet" build
- Thread starter wetskier2000
- Start date
3175375
Senior Member
I think the original bumper would look great, even if you have to modify it for just that reason (the upturn on the ends). Go for it!
Trimming the Corvette front crossmember for the reinstall and realized the Chrysler hood latch area is lower than the rest of the piece that runs from each fender... I had not accounted for that in the current crossmember design... back to the drawing board... If I knew for sure I was going to use the Corvette hood hinges and reverse hood opening it would not be an issue... I just haven't gotten that far yet. Maybe figuring that out will have to come first...
hood that opens from either side like the old buicks?
I love it!!
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
When you say crossmember are you referring to the radiator support? I'm not familiar with Corvette construction. I would assume the Corvette hinges are at the very front of the hood, then there's the "nose" or "front fascia". The Chrysler hood is full length opposed to the partial length Corvette hood, I can't imagine the geometry will work.
The side to side hood is neat, probably a decent amount of engineering there. Can you post some pics of your predicament?
The Corvette crossmember is the forwardmost piece of frame that runs side-to-side behind the front bumper cover. I had to cut it out and shorten the frame horns about 8". Now I have to put it back while allowing the Chrysler sheet metal a place to attach. At a local car show, I asked a guy to demo raising his C5 hood and it appears to come up immediately on the front, leading edge so I think the hinge geometry might work with the Chrysler hood... We'll see...
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
If I were to see the car at a show with a side open hood, I would think it to be way cool.
Boris got his frame pieces in place ready for welding and all his Mopar sheet metal removed in preparation for a trip to the welding shop. His rear inner fenders contact the tires a bit. I thought I'd just remove the small amount of the inner fender that remains, but I'm not sure it will get the job done. Here's where it's rubbing..
Back from the welding shop... Also removed the dash from the 1959 hulk. It was surprisingly easy. 4 bolts on top and 4 on the bottom... Tip of the day: Removed the EBrake linkage BEFORE removing the dash.
In other news... I now know exactly how many Ziplock bags it takes to pick up a 1959 Coronet rear glass off the garage floor...
Every C5 Corvette needs an additional 18" on the rear frame and to lose 8" in the front. haha..
In other news... I now know exactly how many Ziplock bags it takes to pick up a 1959 Coronet rear glass off the garage floor...
Every C5 Corvette needs an additional 18" on the rear frame and to lose 8" in the front. haha..
The remains cut up into bite size pieces.. I'm keeping the WS frame area in case I ever get the bug to replace the C5 windshield with a 59 model...
Firewall is going back to the seller to repair his crashed 59.
Firewall is going back to the seller to repair his crashed 59.
I think I may have a solution to my tire rubbing problem... I swapped the front 17x8.5 ET 56 wheels/tires from the front to the rear replacing the 18x9.5 ET 58 models. I get a shy half and inch further away from the inner fender and it seems to clear the calipers and suspension just fine. I think that will work, I'll just run 17s all the way around and it supports my process of making the car continually handle worse than it did as a stock C5 Corvette. 
Next issue... I finally tried to change a rear tire with the Coronet body on... FAIL! There is no way that's going to work. The wheel hits the upper control arm far before being able to clear it... My initial thought is that I'll have to create fender skirts, but I'd sure like to hear any other ideas.... thanks...
I think you could enlarge the wheel well vertically (does that make sense) as long as you can keep the contour.
IMHO, with the front enlarged like that, it might look more balanced if you did that anyway. Another thought is a removable panel with the molding covering the seam.
hmmmmm... just raising the rear wheelwell ain't such a crazy idea, although I'd quickly be into the SS body trim that I would like to remain.... I think I'll block up the body to find out just how much I need to raise the opening in order to successfully change a tire.
Boris gets new mufflers replacing the stocker Corvette units that were exiting UNDER the car. I was also able to cut back some now unused frame bits to make the new trunk floor easier to make.
Long term plan is to make a fake FG bumper using the stock 1959 unit and exit the new exhaust thru the bumper. Anyone used that new spray on like paint chrome process?
Long term plan is to make a fake FG bumper using the stock 1959 unit and exit the new exhaust thru the bumper. Anyone used that new spray on like paint chrome process?
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
I've never seen anything come out of a can that even remotely resembles chrome. Chrome vinyl wrap on the other hand looks pretty good.
Yeah, that's probably the stuff... That looks pretty good... thanks
I have read a bit about it and I haven't really been impressed. I haven't found anything about longevity except from the people selling the product. I think that bothers me the most. Yea, it looks great in pictures but you really need to hear feedback from folks that have had the work done.
The cost to have it done seems to be up there with real chroming too according to some guys that have looked into getting it done. I have also read that shops trying to get into offering spray chrome haven't had much success.
So, IMHO, most of it is hype from the people trying to sell the system.
Similar threads
- Locked
