darth_linux
Well-Known Member
I’m gonna put the ‘66 on 4 jack stands for some brake work and I’m curious about where the best point on the front end is to place said jack stands. Rears are going under the rear axle obviously. Thanks in advance.
Brake work jack stand placement
- Thread starter darth_linux
- Start date
I always use frame rails, less stress on the suspension.
Using the factory-recommended "jacking points" on the body can be a guide. I like to use the rear spring pads (at the axle) for the back. On the front, you can use the front jacking points along the rocker panel area. Or do the front wheels individually using a floor jack under the flat-horizontal part of the lower control arm, inboard of the ball joint, with the front jacking point as the "safety" spot for jackstands,
CBODY67
CBODY67
If it was going to be up on stands for any length of time, and since you can't put a set under the front control arms and spindles (because of doing brake work), I would use 3 sets:
1 set under the rear axle (as you mentioned)
2nd set under the stub frame where it meets the body / firewall
3rd set under the stub frame forward of the suspension - rad yoke crossmember.
Even when I have it on jack stands at the front, I always keep a floor jack centred under the middle of the front crossmember of the stub frame, not necessarily carrying any load, but not allowing it to sink any further.
My thinking is to spread the front stub frame/engine and suspension load out to 4 points (5 with the floor jack), making it not hang in any way from the stub frame to body bolts. You'd be suprised at how much flex there actually is when the front stub is not well supported past the body mounts.
1 set under the rear axle (as you mentioned)
2nd set under the stub frame where it meets the body / firewall
3rd set under the stub frame forward of the suspension - rad yoke crossmember.
Even when I have it on jack stands at the front, I always keep a floor jack centred under the middle of the front crossmember of the stub frame, not necessarily carrying any load, but not allowing it to sink any further.
My thinking is to spread the front stub frame/engine and suspension load out to 4 points (5 with the floor jack), making it not hang in any way from the stub frame to body bolts. You'd be suprised at how much flex there actually is when the front stub is not well supported past the body mounts.
You can just see in the picture with the green GTX the forward jack stand. The GTX kinda felt too saggy to just support the frame rails at rockers.
This is a forward location I support because the C-bodies have so much hanging out there.
Used the forward support on the Imperial, I added a couple of stands under frame rails for under carriage work.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Under the rear axle, under the t-bar socket on the control arm.
Alan
Alan
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Perfect!
I was going for that with the Imperial, just not enough real estate. At least he has a beer close by.
I have spent a lot of time jacking, using ramps and stands on my 66 fury for brakes and other. The rear is easy, with points all around, and my fav is to use a simple bumper jack first, then place rear stands on rear frame.....tall. Then, I just use a scissor jack to then raise the axle a bit....on the spring, not the axle. Since the car is already up, no sweat. Front on my car much more difficult, for several reasons, but main one is I do not like the curved lower control arms. So, I resort to the jack under that stub frame on the side, then use stands as safety for just short jobs......not to let it hang there long term. I am jealous of the great cars in the pics.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
.
Similar threads
