Can it be Repaired???

65sporty said:
How good are you at fabrication? I would go after the stub frame with a hammer and knock all the loose rusty metal off and see what you really have to work with. See how thin it is and how far it goes.
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Fabrication isn’t my thing-electricity is. I have a friend who is a paint and body guy. He can weld. We are going to take a look and see about what can be done.
 
Honestly, come for a drive and buy a whole stub frame assy from me for $200 or $300 with most of the suspension components still in place. It will take you a weekend to swap it out. Then you don't have to worry about what might need welding, what might be missed and also alignment issues of the whole frame after welding etc. Send me a PM if you are interested. I'm in Greenville NC. Cheers!
 
Wollfen said:
Honestly, come for a drive and buy a whole stub frame assy from me for $200 or $300 with most of the suspension components still in place. It will take you a weekend to swap it out. Then you don't have to worry about what might need welding, what might be missed and also alignment issues of the whole frame after welding etc. Send me a PM if you are interested. I'm in Greenville NC. Cheers!
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I will shoot a PM your way just have to figure out some logistics. But, yes, I am definitely interested.
 
Taken care of, sorry about that. This is a pic below, I have taken the motor and trans out and also the wheel stub axles. It is a solid frame but i can take more pics if you wish.
stripping2.jpg
 
The front cross member in the photo by Joseph James was worked on by someone other that a skilled frame person. They burned out a big chunk of the corner with a cutting torch, that is not rust damage. The frame horn was damaged probably from a collision and the bent metal was removed. The frame horn is supposed to supply support to the strut rod mounts and that link appears missing. It is probably still repairable, but it is weak in its current condition. You need to test the rest of the stub before attempting to repair this defect.

Dave
 
Davea Lux said:
The front cross member in the photo was worked on by someone other that a skilled frame person. They burned out a big chunk of the corner with a cutting torch, that is not rust damage. The frame horn was damaged probably from a collision and the bent metal was removed. The frame horn is supposed to supply support to the strut rod mounts and that link appears missing. It is probably still repairable, but it is weak in its current condition. You need to test the rest of the stub before attempting to repair this defect.

Dave
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Wow. Not something I could have ever discerned. Good eye.
 
For clarity, there is rust damage on the lower portion of the front cross member, the upper part has been visited by a torch.

Dave
 
BIGBARNEYCARS said:
Glad you two guyz found each other, WIN WIN. And better still, all done in a one day round trip. WHERE'Z THAT THUMBZ UP ICON? Jer
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Stars must be aligned the right way. He is 6 hours from me. I just happen to be in Raleigh next week. That’s 1.5 hours away. The Mopar gods must think I am doing something right.

My Fury is getting me to work. Running very good. Curves are no problem. Sometimes, though, I feel like Joe Dirt with that old Mopar he had.
 
Joseph James said:
Stars must be aligned the right way. He is 6 hours from me. I just happen to be in Raleigh next week. That’s 1.5 hours away. The Mopar gods must think I am doing something right.

My Fury is getting me to work. Running very good. Curves are no problem. Sometimes, though, I feel like Joe Dirt with that old Mopar he had.
Click to expand...
Could it be clean livin' ???????? NAH, lol
 
I have had this problem on a 71 fury. If it is clean on top which it usually is you can cut out the rot and mig weld in new steel. Use the cut out part as a scibe. Trace it on the new steel and mig weld it in. I used 1/4" thick galvanized frame steel for cinder block door headers which I had on hand.
 
Cheapest and easiest method because you leave everything else alone. If the top is rotted it usually occurs on the back as most rot on these sub frames so same can be done with the exeption that you will have to lower the rear of the subfame which involves removing front body parts.
 
To pivot the sub down enough for necessary repair. If it is too hard to get the rot that way you could take the front of the car with the sub off and weld in new thicker steel. If the rot is up top toward the front thats when it time to replace it but its pretty much a non available part.
 
Do what you can to fix it. I see way to many fools on here that just junk and part these rare cars due to this issue. I know some frame and body shops could handle the job
If you dont have any skill
 
If you get in there replace the frame isolators as they are over 50 years old. I fabricated solid mount steel spacers for mine and used the 1/4 " frame steel. Sandwiched between the top and bottom of the rearmost mount also there was an absent mounting point in the middle of the
 
Front and rear sub mounts. I utilized it so I now have six solid mounting points opposed to four. It must have been for wagons or something
 
Anyway weld it up. Loose the rubber mounts. Use the extra middle mounts that are unused if its on your year. You can solid simply with several large bolt washers available at grainger or industial hardware sales online. Exept for the frontmost mounts I used modern strut bolts for new ones
 
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