Change ignition 68 Fury

I had this exact problem a month ago and it turned out the IGN wires were loose on the back of the ignition switch. I cut them off, soldered on new female ends and problem went away. I too had to fight the good fight of checking EVERYTHING electrically, but it always ends up being simpler than you'd think to track down an electrical issue after you've solved a number of them.

Practice makes somewhat perfect? No, scratch that, adequate.
 
Alright all tests lead to the neutral switch, I'm gonna change that out on Sunday I think. Can't today, I'm heading down to Santa Cruz to look at a 68 Ford Torino Squire!
 
Alright all tests lead to the neutral switch, I'm gonna change that out on Sunday I think. Can't today, I'm heading down to Santa Cruz to look at a 68 Ford Torino Squire!

Have fun, let us know how the NSS swap works out. You might want to replace the wire as well as the switch. Sometimes those wires can become crappy due to the elements and age.
 
So I went to replace the switch, and what rockauto sent me has 3 connections on it, while what's on the transmission has only a single wire. Read up, and found that they changed it to 3 wire mid 68. Can't find a single wire plug. Was told I could run a couple wires to a start stop button for now to bypass.
 
Not sure how everyone knows what car the OP has, since don't see where he told us.

If pressed, you might be able to use a 3-terminal NSS, just connect to the center terminal. The NSS shorts that terminal to ground when in P or N. But, you will have to adapt the cable. The outer terminals are to turn on the backup lamp in R. Earlier cars had a separate switch for that on the transmission shifter. The detent steps inside the transmission are different (since now need to also sense R position), but my guess is the P & N steps are in the same place.

I agree that swapping parts to solve such an electrical problem is absurd. A multimeter is free w/ coupon at Harbor Freight, as are youtubes on how to get 'er done. This is simple electrical checks, nothing that requires an engineering degree. BTW, the starter circuit is the same in my 1996 Voyager. They simply replaced the stand-alone relay on the firewall w/ a standard 30A relay in the under-hood box. The NSS breaks the return path to gnd for coil-, just as in the 1960's relay. I recall my 2002 T&C is the same. No computer involved and same operation: key switch applies 12 V to relay coil which closes contacts to apply 12 V to large solenoid relay on the side of the starter motor.
 
Back
Top