Changing the ugly out

Pax2001

Member
Joined
May 4, 2021
Messages
91
Reaction score
48
Location
Texas
Finally found some time to do something to the car. Got rid of the ugly gray primer and surface rust. So far I have only sanded it back and used white primer instead, but it sure looks a lot nicer. Thought I had a leaking wheel cylinder, but it was dry as a bone inside the drum. It is running nicely, but it looks like I might have to go through the process of getting a bonded title - any one have any tips to ease that pain?

68before.jpg


68After.jpg
 
Big improvement!:thumbsup:
 
I’ve gotten 3 titles using surety bonds here in Michigan just this past year and it was no problem. I don’t know about Texas.
 
I’ve gotten 3 titles using surety bonds here in Michigan just this past year and it was no problem. I don’t know about Texas.
I looked into it, it's called a bonded title here and easy enough to get for around $100. Problem is local DMV wants a valuation done my an authorized dealership before they will process it. That means a tow to and from, plus their fees and that's even if I can find one that will/can do it.
I have the original title signed by the previous (legal) owner, so I might just try taking that in without a receipt and see what happens...

As I said before though, any and all help / ideas are always welcome and appreciated :)

Peter
 
Wouldn't the title trump all other means of registering the car?
 
Go back again - leave receipt at home? (maybe different office?) Or are you "flagged" somehow now? I know nothing of Texas.
 
The reason the valuation is desired, seeming of late, is that they will charge the sales tax on the sale as a part of the change-over. When they started doing that, they would use the used car industry's "Black Book", which is what was usually used by used car dealers to value trade-ins at. As it was a compilation of the region's used car auction prices rather than a "price guide" of somewhat "supposed to be" values. Which also made the sales receipt only good for verifying the owner bought the car from a particular owner. In some cases, I suspect, the purchase price could be for $1.00, just to show that it was bought and not a gift.

But the Black Book is usually only for more late-model vehicles rather than for older vehicles. Which can be a problem. Which probably led to the "appraised value" orientation? A valuation by an "uninterested third party", for a fee. But even this approach might have its pitfalls as the appraiser will probably use dome published price guide, just determining which price level is applicable.

From my observations, the prices in the Black Book were more "laughable" than not, as to how low they were in comparison to other price guides. Contrast that with the prices of vehicles at the Mecum or B-J auctions, which get all of the press and exposure. Which leaves a BIG gap, usually!

To me, a new as-produced vehicle from the 1960s would probably be closer to a #2 condition than a #1 condition, all things considered. Yet it it "runs and drives", it could be an easy #4 condition vehicle or #3 if it's a really nice "survivor" car. Of course, FEW people in any DMV might know these things, which can vary from office to office, too. Which leads back to the "uninterested third party" appraiser.

The OTHER place where "value" is important is in the area of vehicle insurance. Which can be a whole 'nuther barrel of centipedes. When I had to restructure my multi-car policy with a major company, they wanted ME to put an estimated value on each of the cars . . . as they all were older than 1980. So I did and those amounts are what my normal rates are based upon.

The bad thing is that you have to play THEIR game in the first place. But as always, "money" is the real issue plus getting you on the books as the current, registered owner. AND . . . in order to get the tags, you FIRST have to have insurance on the vehicle and then you can get the state safety inspection done. For "normal" vehicle registrations. If this is going to be your ONLY vehicle, it would not qualify for "Antique Plates", which have their own unique set of usage criteria.

There is a LOT of free information on registrations and such on the Texas DMV website. I would hope that other states might be similar.

FWIW,
CBODY67
 
Go back again - leave receipt at home? (maybe different office?) Or are you "flagged" somehow now? I know nothing of Texas.
Yep, I'm going to give it a shot - nice lady at dmv last time 'slipped' that I should not show my receipt next time :) Guess it will depend on the agent I get, or maybe they have hard and fast rules now.
I'm from NZ where the process is quite a bit different.
 
The reason the valuation is desired, seeming of late, is that they will charge the sales tax on the sale as a part of the change-over. When they started doing that, they would use the used car industry's "Black Book", which is what was usually used by used car dealers to value trade-ins at. As it was a compilation of the region's used car auction prices rather than a "price guide" of somewhat "supposed to be" values. Which also made the sales receipt only good for verifying the owner bought the car from a particular owner. In some cases, I suspect, the purchase price could be for $1.00, just to show that it was bought and not a gift.

But the Black Book is usually only for more late-model vehicles rather than for older vehicles. Which can be a problem. Which probably led to the "appraised value" orientation? A valuation by an "uninterested third party", for a fee. But even this approach might have its pitfalls as the appraiser will probably use dome published price guide, just determining which price level is applicable.

From my observations, the prices in the Black Book were more "laughable" than not, as to how low they were in comparison to other price guides. Contrast that with the prices of vehicles at the Mecum or B-J auctions, which get all of the press and exposure. Which leaves a BIG gap, usually!

To me, a new as-produced vehicle from the 1960s would probably be closer to a #2 condition than a #1 condition, all things considered. Yet it it "runs and drives", it could be an easy #4 condition vehicle or #3 if it's a really nice "survivor" car. Of course, FEW people in any DMV might know these things, which can vary from office to office, too. Which leads back to the "uninterested third party" appraiser.

The OTHER place where "value" is important is in the area of vehicle insurance. Which can be a whole 'nuther barrel of centipedes. When I had to restructure my multi-car policy with a major company, they wanted ME to put an estimated value on each of the cars . . . as they all were older than 1980. So I did and those amounts are what my normal rates are based upon.

The bad thing is that you have to play THEIR game in the first place. But as always, "money" is the real issue plus getting you on the books as the current, registered owner. AND . . . in order to get the tags, you FIRST have to have insurance on the vehicle and then you can get the state safety inspection done. For "normal" vehicle registrations. If this is going to be your ONLY vehicle, it would not qualify for "Antique Plates", which have their own unique set of usage criteria.

There is a LOT of free information on registrations and such on the Texas DMV website. I would hope that other states might be similar.

FWIW,
CBODY67
Lots of great information, CBody67, Thanks again
 
Back
Top