traintech55
Senior Member
Looking at your picture the terminal that does not have a wire lug. Make sure that one is grounded. Looks like all you need to do is run a wire from that stud to the case screw where the wire retainer is mounted.
Charging issue
- Thread starter grimley
- Start date
That terminal isn't really cut off. The rebuilders will install a terminal that grounds to the body of the alternator, eliminating the need to run a separate ground wire.
Traintech is correct, with a later alternator (post 1970), you have two connections for the field. In this case, the alternator has been modified for use in an earlier (pre 1970) car.
They went to the isolated field alternators in 1970.
traintech55
Senior Member
Okay I was off one year. It was 47 years ago. Also the newer alternator is more dependable, and easier to repair.
LOL. I can't remember what I had for breakfast.
I've been trying to find a link I had to identifying alternators. I know they went to the isolated field alternator in 1970 and I think they started using those square back alternators in 1972. The square back was easier to repair because the diode bridge bolted in. The earlier diodes were pressed in and soldered, although it's been a long time since I had one of those apart.
Straight eight
New Member
mmmhhh sorry...i´m a little bit confused now ...do i have to ground the one terminal or not??? Just checked the terminal and it seems not to be grounded (picture)...there is a little isolater ring under the screw..
traintech55
Senior Member
Do you have a multi meter? If you do the easiest way is to check for continuity from the brush stud to the case. If you have it, you are fine. If not then run a jumper wire. Even better, check for continuity from the terminal stud to the case.
traintech55
Senior Member
I like to use the newer ones for the same reason.
Oh!! I see the problem!
The connection has been installed backwards. Unscrew it and pull the brush out, rotate it 180 degrees and slide it back in. It will look like the other connection when done.
Then, yes, you will need to ground one (it doesn't matter which one) of the field connections.
I'm sorry for the the confusion. I've seen a couple of rebuilds that the field connection had been grounded and that is what I assumed you had.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Since your new alternator is a dual field I would convert it to a newer dual field regulator it's a little more work than just grounding one terminal and using your current regulator but well worth it imho.
Straight eight
New Member
Okay, just unscrewed it and pulled the brush out...but i can´t rotate it 180 degrees and slide it back in because of the brush...??? (see picture) I will just ground the terminal and give it a try like traintech55 suggested...
I was wrong on the terminal being in backwards. Too long since I've had one apart.
But!! I do see the issues (I think). Remove the insulating washer and put it back together. That field should now be grounded and my initial thought that the field connection was grounded with that style brush would be correct.
It looks to me like someone has added that plastic washer.
Sorry for the confusion... It's tough to figure it out from pictures.
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Straight eight
New Member
Thanks. Yes, when i remove the little insulating washer the field should be grounded (because the screw goes in the case). So i´m not in need to run a separate ground wire. I´ll try that. Thanks
Really, the only difference is the isolated field (there is no "dual" field) is controlled by the negative feed instead of the positive like the early system uses. At the time, this was the easier (read cheaper) method.Since your new alternator is a dual field I would convert it to a newer dual field regulator it's a little more work than just grounding one terminal and using your current regulator but well worth it imho.
With the new electronic regulators replacing the mechanical regulators, there's no advantage. It all works the same... The earlier alternators just grounded one end of the field internally.
It's not a bad conversion by any means... Don't get me wrong, I've seen a lot of cars converted and it's worked out well for them. I just don't think it's needed.
traintech55
Senior Member
I agree with Big John on this one. No matter what year Chrysler you have get the components working correctly and you will have the best charging system invented. WAY better than G.M. and Ford.
Jakenks
Member
I just did part of this when I replaced my alternator. The FLAPS provided me with a so called dual field. So, I jumpered one tab and it charges (13.7 at idle).
How do I do the later model regulator mod?
How do I do the later model regulator mod?
traintech55
Senior Member
You will need to mount the new regulator on a good ground. As far as the wiring, you will need a new regulator plug, then run a new wire from the green on the plug to the alternator. Then run a new wire for the blue one to the alternator, and "T" the blue ignition feed, the regulator plug, and the alternator as one. DONE.
Or just buy one of these... Mopar Voltage Regulator Electronic Solid State & Correct Restoration Look New- | eBay
Plug and play. No wiring changes.
Plug and play. No wiring changes.
Knebel
Senior Member
Dont waste your time. I Bought this one and had the same issues. Then bought the Powermaster alternator and used this voltage regulator while grounding one field same issue. Just get the 70s and up Regulator, run 2 field wires and be good with it. It is a really easy conversion as long as you can splice wires.
The Early MoPar (60’s and 70’s) Wiring and How It Can Be Upgraded
There are others. In fact when you buy one from Auto Zone etc., it's now going to be an electronic and not a mechanical.
Actually even the mechanical works just fine, just most people throw parts at the problem rather than figuring it out.
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