coil too hot to touch?

[jrm]

I have a 62 880, 361 motor 2bbl, I upgraded to elec ignition and it ran fine for a few days this is jan 2016, then it would buck and die while at a stop sign, let it cool and it would start again and go a few miles then repeat, coil was so hot you couldn't touch it, I put an autozone gold coil in and things were great till Monday sept 2016. It did the same thing died and the coil was very hot. changed coil to an old mopar coil I had and it started so I bought a napa elchin and installed car runs and drives now, coil is warm from engine heat but u can touch it.
Checked w ohm meter, 14 volts at start and 7 when running pos side, 8.9ohms at the coil to pos and neg post, 1.8 I think from post to post , ballast res is 1.8ohms
My question is why does it eat a coil after 8 months?
Think it was a bad coil? That's 2 now and I will start carrying one and some wrenches, is it a short or? stock wiring. Any help is appreciated.

 

[commando1]

I wouldn't assume that testing the ballast resistor is the final say. I would put in a new one regardless. They're cheap.

 

[BJS racing]

Still running points? The resistance on the resistor is a touch high but not anything I would worry with right not. I would suggest picking up a spare and toss in the glove box if you are having this many problems. What is the resistance from the + to the coil wire terminal of the coil? Check the old one against the new one. I would also make sure you have a good ground off of the housing of the distributor especially if it is a points dizzy. That would create resistance and could shorten the life of the coil. there should be a small like #4 or #6 screw on the dizzy you can run a ground from.

 

[Big_John]

I have a 62 880, 361 motor 2bbl, I upgraded to elec ignition and it ran fine for a few days this is jan 2016, then it would buck and die while at a stop sign, let it cool and it would start again and go a few miles then repeat, coil was so hot you couldn't touch it, I put an autozone gold coil in and things were great till Monday sept 2016. It did the same thing died and the coil was very hot. changed coil to an old mopar coil I had and it started so I bought a napa elchin and installed car runs and drives now, coil is warm from engine heat but u can touch it.
Checked w ohm meter, 14 volts at start and 7 when running pos side, 8.9ohms at the coil to pos and neg post, 1.8 I think from post to post , ballast res is 1.8ohms
My question is why does it eat a coil after 8 months?
Think it was a bad coil? That's 2 now and I will start carrying one and some wrenches, is it a short or? stock wiring. Any help is appreciated.

You didn't say what brand or type of electronic ignition. You need to match the coil specifically to the ignition system you are using. You could have too much primary resistance or the coil might not be up to the increased dwell time an electronic ignition gives.

I've been trying to wrap my head around why so many people have coil problems and so many don't. The common factor seems to be seems to be a failure of the first coil followed by multiple failures of replacements.

From my observations, I never see the words "I used the recommended coil" or "I used coil part#xxxxxxx".

I've done a bunch of these conversions and I always used the recommended Accel coil or I lifted the entire ignition system, including the coil, from a mid to late seventies vintage car and screwed them on an older car. I've never had an issue.

That was in past years though... The quality may have changed for the worse on all the components. I also don't know that the same coils are available... or are listed under different part numbers.

 

[Big_John]

I would also make sure you have a good ground off of the housing of the distributor especially if it is a points dizzy. That would create resistance and could shorten the life of the coil.

While he doesn't have a "points" system, that's a real valid point about grounding the distributor. Something I never really thought about.

I have seen other issues where the ground that the car had when it left the factory has gotten rusted or what seems to be of great confusion to some, the component and it's mounting face has been "restored" and thus painted to look nice and there isn't a good connection to ground anymore.

 

[Snotty]

I had a similar problem with my Newport over a year ago. In talking with my mechanic Buddy in Bakersfield his words were, "An electrical gremlin is very hard to find. I would suggest yu change everything." New coil, new ballast, new ECU, problem seems to be solved.

I agree with Stanley/Commando, don't assume, replace.

 

[jrm]

Still running points? The resistance on the resistor is a touch high but not anything I would worry with right not. I would suggest picking up a spare and toss in the glove box if you are having this many problems. What is the resistance from the + to the coil wire terminal of the coil? Check the old one against the new one. I would also make sure you have a good ground off of the housing of the distributor especially if it is a points dizzy. That would create resistance and could shorten the life of the coil. there should be a small like #4 or #6 screw on the dizzy you can run a ground from.

From the coil wire hole to the + post its 8.9 ohms, I haven't grounded the dist I will try that. While I had the problem I put in my spare resistor and it didn't change anything. It is electronic. I am using a coil that requires a resistor.
instructions said a coil w 8 ohms or better was required I know the accel says it will go over 10 so maybe that may be an option. Coil is a napa model for a 1978 Chrysler newyorker 7 liter eng. I will look into dwell like one poster said. Just weird it ran great for 7 months then all of a sudden it stalls out and the coil is too hot to touch, not confidence inspiring!

 

[commando1]

Replace the ballast resistor and then wait and see before everybody has you throwing jello on the wall in a totally chaotic manner to see what finally sticks...

 

[BJS racing]

From the coil wire hole to the + post its 8.9 ohms, I haven't grounded the dist I will try that. While I had the problem I put in my spare resistor and it didn't change anything. It is electronic. I am using a coil that requires a resistor.
instructions said a coil w 8 ohms or better was required I know the accel says it will go over 10 so maybe that may be an option. Coil is a napa model for a 1978 Chrysler newyorker 7 liter eng. I will look into dwell like one poster said. Just weird it ran great for 7 months then all of a sudden it stalls out and the coil is too hot to touch, not confidence inspiring!

Run a ground wire from the ecu to a known good ground. The coil is being fired off of the module and if the module isn't grounded well enough that can be causing this issue. Case in point my gold Fury when I picked it up was having some charging issues (electomechanical regulator) where everything was flickering. Redid the ground and the problem went away. Same type of thing can be going on with the ignition. Also check the red/green or on some it is opposite wire on the module to the case and see if that is an open circuit or it shows resistance. If it shows resistance that is a true 5 pin module and you have to run the 4 terminal style resistor with that module or change the module to the 4 pin style.