Core/Freeze/Welsh plugs for 361 BB

Bucket

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Location
Gympie Area , QLD,Australia
I currently have my 361 out of my 61 Newport to fix oil leaks and such for roadworthy.
Build date is late 1960.
I am replacing the water jacket core plugs (1 5/8").
The only ones i can find down here in Aus are a deep cup style .
It looks like the originals i took out are just a disc style without a lip .
There is a recess in the block where the plugs sit that is about 4mm deep.
Problem is it looks like someone has tried to bash them out beforehand and part of the internal lip is missing on one of the holes so i doubt i would be able to use the disc style without a lip but would need some flat bottomed shallow plugs .
This way i could seal them with Stag or something else .
Does anyone know of a source for some shallow flat bottomed plugs ?
Cheers,
Greg
 
I currently have my 361 out of my 61 Newport to fix oil leaks and such for roadworthy.
Build date is late 1960.
I am replacing the water jacket core plugs (1 5/8").
The only ones i can find down here in Aus are a deep cup style .
It looks like the originals i took out are just a disc style without a lip .
There is a recess in the block where the plugs sit that is about 4mm deep.
Problem is it looks like someone has tried to bash them out beforehand and part of the internal lip is missing on one of the holes so i doubt i would be able to use the disc style without a lip but would need some flat bottomed shallow plugs .
This way i could seal them with Stag or something else .
Does anyone know of a source for some shallow flat bottomed plugs ?
Cheers,
Greg

Try www.summitracing.com, they have a lot of different styles. Note that Mopar used either the disc style or the deep cup style on most applications. If all else fails, you could probably use a belt sander to reduce the lip on the deep style plug for that one hole.

Dave
 
Most people I knew used some black Permatex sealer to install the plugs with. The disc plugs, as I recall, have a slight bend in them, toward the center from the outside, so after they are in place, then allegedly a slight "rap" with a happen flattens them out (installed with the curve outward rather than inward) to lock them in place, from what I recall reading. Most people I knew used the cup plugs with the Permatex black/dark brown sealer with no problems. Just use a large diameter socket to install and get them centered-in.

Many people also use the brass plugs, for enhanced longevity.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
G'Day,
Seeing You have the Motor out of the vehicle I'll make a Suggestion.
In Ancient Times when we were Young & Stupid we had a Constant problem of the Old Lens Type Welsh Plugs being Spat Out the Side of the Block when we were Drag Racing.
OR....
You'd be cruising down the Road & decide to overtake, Ram the Pedal to the Metal &..... You'd hear a PSSSHHH & Tinkle, Tinkle, Tinkle as the Welsh Plug headed for the Weeds.
We finally worked out a Solution, a bit rough & ready But it Worked.
After Fitting the Plugs, Drill a hole either side of each Plug & use Self Tapper Screws with Locktite to Fix a 1/2" Strap of Metal across each one to "LOCK" each Plug into the Block.
As I say Bit Rough but it worked if done Properly.
Something Else I'll mention.
I've noticed a Few times People Looking for HD Engine Mounts, I've seen one suggestion for Drilling & Fitting a Couple of Bolts to Limit the Stretch Factor of the Rubber
Which I think is a Good Idea.
What we used to do was use a Short Length of Chain between the Block & the Chassis to Limit the Stretch.
Only Problem was, as soon a Someone saw that, they knew you were a "Rev Head"
Regards, Tony.M
 
Thanks for the replies , some good info there .
I will post some photos of the lip in the block and where one hole has some of the lip gone .
On various Slant/6's i have had over the years i have always installed the cup style plugs with the lip outwards as they didn't have a lip inside the plug hole .
On the 361 , because one of the plug hole lips is missing a bit i am probably going to have to use a cup style plug with a short lip and no curve in it so it can be installed with the lip outwards .
Then it can seal on the lip in the block .
 
Some photos of what i am talking about .
PLUG HOLE 1.jpg
PLUG HOLE 2.jpg
 
First thought on your engine pictures is that is one of the cleanest blocks that I’ve seen. You are blessed!

I think that you may be best off installing the second picture type after scuffing up the block’s mating surface with crokus cloth. If you feel the need for a sealant, use the Indian Head Shellac.

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/20539.pdf

7F2AEF83-F206-4C1A-8B1A-64F4B1696A79.png

9661654C-10CE-4171-9755-CD0C83A97A19.png
 
Thanks for the info and links .
I will have a look on the sites.
I need to find a cup that is shallow as that lip in the block is only about 4mm deep .
 
Indian Head Shellac is the best sealant I've worked with on expansion plugs. Mind you, I've not yet had my 383 out of the compartment, which is one reason why I use this venerable, excellent sealant. Had a tricky job replacing the plug behind the passenger side motor mount, and wound up using an expandable copper plug with a nut that one turns to flatten out the initially convex plug into a tighter fit. The example in the preceding link is the very one I used. This + Indian Head and I've not lost a drop in 3 yrs there.

Good luck and bless your work!
 
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