Cranks but No Spark Fury

[Great Pumpkin]

So.... I am (very) slowly getting my 1970 Fury III 318 2bbl on the road after it sat for 12 years. I replaced cap, points, rotor, condenser, wires, plugs... and it was running pretty good (I hope last thing is small carb leak, still not addressed) And then a few days ago.... after a lot of cranking finally started and ran rough and then died halfway out of my garage (couldnt open doors, so out the window!). Now after a week of muddling about it still just cranks and wont start. Someone was helping me out, saw spark off coil to distributer wire. We regapped points and nothing. Next day I replaced with new condensor, put back old cap and rotor, for kicks swapped coil to distributor wire, each step would start. I tested coil today with ohm meter, primary 1.5 (FSM for 2444241 says 1.41 to 1.55 ohms is good), secondary 8700 (FSM says 9200 to 10700 ohms good) - good enough? Was gonna to look for ballast resistor to test, but dont remember seeing it. Under coil looks like a condensor, thought it might be there. Attached pic, what is the piece on firewall?

Any tips please in helping to get Fury to start? Really appreciate it! I need to move my Fury, birds are crapping on it!

 

[Big_John]

saw spark off coil to distributer wire.

So you have spark or you don't have spark? If you have spark at the coil, you should have spark at the plugs.

Since that seems a little vague, it sorta sounds like a fuel problem. Spray a little starting fluid down the carb and see if it fires.

Attached pic, what is the piece on firewall?

Starter relay.

 

[Davea Lux]

The circled part is the starter relay. The ballast resister will be a white porcelain rectangle with a wire on each end, it will usually be mounted on the intake manifold on the passenger side. Some models also have it mounted on the firewall. The ballast resistor is only active with the ignition in the "Run" position. A bad resistor will kill the engine once it has started and the key is moved to the run position, so I do not think that is your problem. Remove the coil wire from the distributor and place it about 1/8" from a good ground. You should get a spark each time the points open and close if you have spark with this test the engine should run with the coil wire reattached unless you have a broken rotor. The condenser by the coil is for static suppression on you radio.

Given that you had a carb leak to start with, I am thinking you have a carb that is flooding the engine with fuel. Crank the engine for about 30 seconds and remove the air cleaner. Now look down the carb throat with a flash light. Do you see fuel dripping from the air horns? If yes you have a bad carb that needs to be rebuilt.

The other likely possibility on a car that sat for twelve years is that your fuel tank is full of sediment and has clogged the fuel filter or the pickup sock on the tank sending unit. Try disconnecting the fuel filter and remove it from the car, blow it out backwards and see of a bunch of crap comes out of the filter. If so replace the filter, you may have to remove the fuel tank for cleaning if it keeps clogging filters.

Dave

 

[Great Pumpkin]

Thanks for your replies, sorry to have missed some info: I have spark from the coil, not at the plugs, I did try two rotors that were very recently working. I tried starting fluid without it starting. I did replace the fuel system, from the tank to carb, the carb was pulled apart and declared good from a veteran car guy.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks for your replies, sorry to have missed some info: I have spark from the coil, not at the plugs, I did try two rotors that were very recently working. I tried starting fluid without it starting. I did replace the fuel system, from the tank to carb, the carb was pulled apart and declared good from a veteran car guy.

Pull out a plug and see if it soaked with fuel.

Dave

 

[Great Pumpkin]

Pulled one, not wet, carbon

 

[Clover]

I suspect that you have a fuel delivery problem.

 

[Davea Lux]

Those plugs have enough carbon to keep them from firing properly, try cleaning them up.

Dave

 

[Turboomni]

I have spark from the coil, not at the plugs

????. I would fix that first or I am misunderstanding something.

 

[Clover]

Usually if the spark plug is dry, it either has been firing or has not been seeing any gas. Carbon is definitely an insulator and will weaken the spark but why aren’t the plugs wet?

 

[Davea Lux]

Usually if the spark plug is dry, it either has been firing or has not been seeing any gas. Carbon is definitely an insulator and will weaken the spark but why aren’t the plugs wet?

If it sat overnight, the plugs will be dry because the fuel will have evaporated if the carb is flooding. The carbon accumulation is from a mixture that is too rich, either from an improperly set choke, bad needle valve bad carb float or floats that have been set too high.

Dave

 

[Turboomni]

He said he had spark at the coil and No spark at the plugs. ????

 

[Clover]

Everything that Dave has said is true. It would be germain to know how long it had sat after cranking, when the plug came out. I still think it’s no fuel.

 

[Great Pumpkin]

i appreciate your help, the car sat for two days before looking at plug. i need to find a body to help further debug this....

 

[Ripinator]

i appreciate your help, the car sat for two days before looking at plug. i need to find a body to help further debug this....

If you are saying you have power going to the coil, but no power / spark at the plugs, it sounds like the coil is suspect. Is the coil original, or has it been replaced at some time in the past? Coils can be insidious. . .

 

[Turboomni]

You have a 6 volt coil and not a 12 volt coil yes??

 

[Great Pumpkin]

I am going to research this more Saturday and post findings, thanks

 

[Ripinator]

I am going to research this more Saturday and post findings, thanks

If ya need to replace the coil, I think this is the one:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=47704&cc=1232480&jsn=557

 

[Great Pumpkin]

I tested coil with ohm meter, primary 1.5 (FSM for 2444241 says 1.41 to 1.55 ohms is good), secondary 8700 (FSM says 9200 to 10700 ohms good) - good enough?

 

[Great Pumpkin]

written on coil:
2444241
2495531
12V