Customers 68 GTX

65sporty

Old Man with a Hat
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A customer of mine recently purchased a 68 GTX with a 440, it has HP manifolds. What plug wires have you guy's used for RB engines with HP manifolds? Any one have pic's of the wire routing? He wanted the plugs and wires changed and the wires I ordered were too short when I routed them the way the old ones were. I had a set of Standard 9872's
 
Here's a couple of pics of my 68 GTX for ya, Scott.

My plug wires are Chrysler date-coded wires. I cant remember for the life of me wth I got them though. And fyi, the one on the pass side, furthest back goes on top of the valve cover and over the back of the motor.

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On this one some one has the rear cylinders on both sides routed over the top of the valve covers and the others come down the front of the cylinder heads. Is this correct? The wire on the car are good right now but it has other driveabilty concerns and he wanted them changed. I am going to forget about them for now and concentrate on the carb and ignition.

It has a unknown can in it with some lump (not real bad), the carter carb that was on it was really lean so he got us a Edelbrock 1407 750cfm, we sucked out the 14yr old fuel out of the tank and put on the carb. It runs ok but had spark knock, right now it has 36 degrees total with still some slight spark knock. 10 degrees initial 26 mechanical no vacuum advance. I would prefer to run more initial and less mechanical. Ever modify a mopar electronic distributor mechanical advance????
 
On this one some one has the rear cylinders on both sides routed over the top of the valve covers and the others come down the front of the cylinder heads. Is this correct? The wire on the car are good right now but it has other driveabilty concerns and he wanted them changed. I am going to forget about them for now and concentrate on the carb and ignition.

It has a unknown can in it with some lump (not real bad), the carter carb that was on it was really lean so he got us a Edelbrock 1407 750cfm, we sucked out the 14yr old fuel out of the tank and put on the carb. It runs ok but had spark knock, right now it has 36 degrees total with still some slight spark knock. 10 degrees initial 26 mechanical no vacuum advance. I would prefer to run more initial and less mechanical. Ever modify a mopar electronic distributor mechanical advance????

IIRC, on the driver's side all 4 go down the front. I have not fiddled with the mechanical advance. I would have to look at my notes to confirm, but I think mine was 14-16 initial.
 
Ever modify a mopar electronic distributor mechanical advance????
My friend did, welded and ground the slots, and used his Sun distributor machine. Ask @halifaxhops , he has the Sun machine and might have a distributor on hand for you. But hey, you should know that, you FTO'er you.
 
On this one some one has the rear cylinders on both sides routed over the top of the valve covers and the others come down the front of the cylinder heads. Is this correct? The wire on the car are good right now but it has other driveabilty concerns and he wanted them changed. I am going to forget about them for now and concentrate on the carb and ignition.

I believe this is how my wires are routed.
 
You have three ways to set that distributor up, find the oem parts that will do it, weld and grind, you really get one shot at it or a FBO plate, I do not like them but they work, I have no need for them since I have a bunch of parts around. Find a advance cam plate marked 13L and some lighter springs prob be right on. I might have one pm me if you want.
 
I pulled the Dist and welded the slots some, 21 or 22 initial and 13 to 14 centrifugal in dist. Happy with it for now and the engine is happier. Ordered some metering rod to dial the carb further. He said it's a 440??? I didn't run the casting no's but it's really gutless, even with the cam. Lower rpm ok, around 4,000 goes flat. He wanted it to take to Frakenmuth so it's gone for now.

This is where he was heading with it.
Frankenmuth Auto Fest Official Website | Frankenmuth Car Show
 
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