Dash Warning Lights - what is supposed to light up on key turn?

[sprice]

Have a 68' 300 i am rebuilding. Have redone some electrical from a bit of a hack job from previous owner. Not at the stage of starting yet but am putting power to the switch to test electrical as I move from dash to engine compartment. Engine bay is finished however not sure what is supposed to light when turn key right to "run"position. I only have the oil light illuminating. I would have thought the "cold" and maybe others should light up. What lamps are supposed to light prior to starting in "run" position?

Thanks.

 

[cbarge]

OIL ,HOT and COLD.
The hot light will go out quickly as you turn the key.
Oil light will go out when engine is running and cold light is supposed to go out when up to temp.
On 68 models,common areas to check are; temp sending unit and plug going to it.
The two prongs are hot and cold.
The circuit boards in the dash tend to corrode and bulbs do burn out.
Hope this helps..

 

[PH27L7]

Cool, an NOS belt cbarge!

 

[sprice]

Yes, good and thanks.

 

[sprice]

I have tested the temp sender as per manual and all is good there. I turned my attention to the two violet wires coming from the the rear of the ignition switch. According to the service manual, the violet wires, which are connected to "GRD" terminal on the switch. Is there not supposed be power to that terminal with the key in "run" position to power the temp sender? The "accessory" terminal has the black 12ga attached and that gets power with the key in "run" position. I cannot see a part number and am wondering I have the wrong switch however looking at Rock Auto site, the terminals are the same as what I have.

 

[cbarge]

GRD means ground??.
Cant see a wire that feeds power be connected to a ground--that will short it out.
I highly doubt the issue is at the ignition switch--but could be wrong.

At the sender,the engine is ground. At the cluster,the dash frame is ground.
If you have the idiot light cluster out of the dash frame,check for power from the harness going to the circuit board with key on run position.
Test continuity at the circuit board and the bulbs with a mulit meter.
Hope this helps.

 

[sprice]

Was a bad temp sensor. I must have misread the device manual. I heated the sensor and the “cold” cam on until it cooled. Purchased a new one and all golden.