Norwegianmopar
Member
Guys, the car was on the lift and wheels hanging free which is about a 5 inch stretch or so. It's perfect while on the ground.
Disc brake conversion kits
- Thread starter Norwegianmopar
- Start date
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
You should have some slack all of the way through the suspension travel. The hose is too short.
Just Carbs
Senior Member
I agree, just don't turn the wheel and go over a parking lot drainage dip at the same time.
Margos Dezirian
Member
This where I moved my hose bracket.
fury fan
Old Man with a Hat
If you are driving and get into some type of emergency evasive action, make a hard swerve with the brakes and put fluid pressure inside the hoses, one of them might fail.
Might take years to experience such a situation, when you've forgotten all about this.
If you've ever had a front hose or line burst in a panic stop you know the sensation.
If not, it's this - The situation changes in a half-second. You feel helpless as the car lunges toward whatever you were trying to not hit. In the next second while you process what has happened, all your other options fade from your brain.
It's too easy to fix now. Don't dig in just because your buddy has been working on cars for awhile. Some of us have been also. Nobody knows everything.
I have had a front brake hose burst in an emergency stop. This is exactly what happens....
I haven't said anything here other than hit "agree" or "disagree"... But it needs to be said again that the hose is too tight. IMHO, I find it very ironic that the car was converted to disc brakes in the name of "safety" when an obvious safety issue is being dismissed.
SMH...
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
I had the rear axle flex hose in my 65 Mustang fail, before I had installed a dual chamber master cylinder. I rear ended a Subaru. What a helpless feeling! The issue was that I hadn’t routed the flex line best, and it was rubbing on the exhaust when the suspension was compressed. I have since corrected the issue.
fury fan
Old Man with a Hat
Mine happened from putting 235-60 tires on teh front of an 80 Cordoba. Hose rubbed on the tire. Apparently it took awhile of the right steering/suspension conditions allowing the rub (as I found out afterward).
Had to do a hard stop and the hose burst. Hit car #1 about 30mph - pushed it into the car in front of it, and the one in front of it, and finally into a big service truck that stopped it all. Only got a busted lip. If it had been at highway speed it would've been really ugly.
Nowadays I don't take any chances with hose routing. And I check both sides, in case something not-noticeable makes a difference.
@Norwegianmopar
I truly hope you take our experience to heart. You've got a handful of guys saying your hoses need better routing. The last sentence in my post #24 is my opinion that this is fixable without cracking any lines open. Might be a 1-hour job if it's still on the lift.
dodtorcito
New Member
I agree.
I have had hose and line faillure several times while testing owners cars. One was because toooo short hose....
I replaced my Imperial hoses with 72 Dodge pick up truck hoses for extra length.
I wasn't able to get clippers off with out really forcing the hose. On the rear tho original hose would be stretched so much it was stopping the rear axel from fully hanging.
You will have to do some researce on hose lengths. I don't have the number available, but rockauto is good for find specs on length. I think I ordered a 16" or 18" hose. original hose was 12".
I wasn't able to get clippers off with out really forcing the hose. On the rear tho original hose would be stretched so much it was stopping the rear axel from fully hanging.
You will have to do some researce on hose lengths. I don't have the number available, but rockauto is good for find specs on length. I think I ordered a 16" or 18" hose. original hose was 12".
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Here are a few pics of the hose before and after. From my notes, I used three rear flex lines from a
| W200 PICKUP | 1969-1973 |
volksworld
Well-Known Member
if you go down to the thread "soft lines for a 73 disc brake conversion " I posted a crappy pic of how I rotated the bracket and I have the part # for the 73 line...which I believe is longer than the 71
Norwegianmopar
Member
Drove the car home from the port yesterday, around 350 miles without any issues. The brakes are awesome and doesn't pull to either side, very good pedal feel as well. With all new suspension it rode like a dream and I really enjoyed how it handles and drives.
Where did you find those? I have a 67 Fury III that I am trying to do a conversion on.
Norwegianmopar
Member
Murray B. Park.
Thanks!
low_key_T_wp
New Member
Hi there. I'm new here. I found this forum researching converting my 4 wheel drum 1970 dodge monaco in South Africa. We call it here the chrysler 383.
Ive had my brakes done at a brake shop by relining the shoes, smoothing the drums as there isn't much life left on them, new double diaphragm power booster and new soft lines.
I have recently experience some bad shudder braking at some high way speeds. The entire steering shakes horribly and the whole front shakes and just doesn't give a smooth braking experience.
Im looking to convert the front to dosc brakes but finding parts in south africa is tough and has to be imported. Most people here have fords and chevys and the mopar stuff seem to be very expensive.
I've ordered off from rock auto and fedex delivers to my door about 2 weeks. Now with the conversion im wanting to do, I'd like to go oem mopar but unsure which parts to actually buy to do the conversion. I've read cordoba discs would work but still unsure as I would like to retain the current spindles drom the drums, so a bolt on disc kit replacing the drums. Any advice would be appreciated. TA
Ive had my brakes done at a brake shop by relining the shoes, smoothing the drums as there isn't much life left on them, new double diaphragm power booster and new soft lines.
I have recently experience some bad shudder braking at some high way speeds. The entire steering shakes horribly and the whole front shakes and just doesn't give a smooth braking experience.
Im looking to convert the front to dosc brakes but finding parts in south africa is tough and has to be imported. Most people here have fords and chevys and the mopar stuff seem to be very expensive.
I've ordered off from rock auto and fedex delivers to my door about 2 weeks. Now with the conversion im wanting to do, I'd like to go oem mopar but unsure which parts to actually buy to do the conversion. I've read cordoba discs would work but still unsure as I would like to retain the current spindles drom the drums, so a bolt on disc kit replacing the drums. Any advice would be appreciated. TA
It's probably not your brakes causing that. Bad bushings on the lower control arm strut could do that. I would also look at the control arm bushings, both upper and lower and check the ball joints.
low_key_T_wp
New Member
I'll have a look at those suspension parts. I recall the brakes guys doing ball joints and pitman arms so will revisit and check what else is going on. The shuddering is only there when I step on the brakes.
What happens at lower road speeds? At high pedal pressure? At lower pedal pressure?
How soon past the brake relining and such has it been? Time and km? When using the brakes, do the brakes initially "grab" or do they work smoothly, as to how they apply and stop the car? As to the "grab", drum brakes are more "touchy" as to pedal pressure, in general, but the "grab" I'm talking about is related to a rougher finish on the inside of the drum where the lining contacts it. Being too rough can make a touchy brake system become more aggressive than normal (as compared to what it used to be before the lining replacement and such. Such a rougher finish can also cause more heat in the linings, which can be smelled, too. Until the metal finish becomes polished a bit during the initial break-in period. IF there are brake smells, do NOT apply the parking brake as the brakes cool.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
How soon past the brake relining and such has it been? Time and km? When using the brakes, do the brakes initially "grab" or do they work smoothly, as to how they apply and stop the car? As to the "grab", drum brakes are more "touchy" as to pedal pressure, in general, but the "grab" I'm talking about is related to a rougher finish on the inside of the drum where the lining contacts it. Being too rough can make a touchy brake system become more aggressive than normal (as compared to what it used to be before the lining replacement and such. Such a rougher finish can also cause more heat in the linings, which can be smelled, too. Until the metal finish becomes polished a bit during the initial break-in period. IF there are brake smells, do NOT apply the parking brake as the brakes cool.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
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