thank you for all of the information. I think i will try top piece meal this thing. I am trying to get the instrument cluster off right now. I got the speedometer cable off and a new one run to the back of the instrument cluster. however, i am having the damnedest time getting that new cable screwed back on. i cannot get the cluster off because the ammeter wire is too short. I do not have enough room to pull it out. those terminals are screwed on. so.. i am going to get a wrench extension and see if that helps. while i have this thing off i am going to replace all the switches and voltage regulator. id like to get the cluster off to look at the clock. it is not running. maybe i could tinker with it - some WD40 here or there may get it up and running again. a man can hope - right?
electrical rewiring
- Thread starter craigl
- Start date
You will be wasting "time" (pun intended) farting with the clock.
All old Mopar clocks have points contact wind ups.
They are known to burn up or the wind uup spring breaks.
I bought a NOS clock and watched smoke billow up from the dash.
Given the difficulty of removing the cluster, it is best to do a quartz movement upgrade in your clock.
There are kits on Ebay for the doityetselfer, or send it out to get rebuilt.
Hope this helps.
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Instrument Services sells the kit for your clock mentioned above. Easy peasy to do once the clock is out.
Make sure of course that your battery is disconnected when removing the wires from the ammeter. See if you can get your phone back up in there to take a picture FIRST. Hooking it up backwards afterwards can be a disaster.
Are you sure the speedo cable was the correct one? Sometimes there are different ends, and they don't interchange. Compare your original to the new one.
Make sure of course that your battery is disconnected when removing the wires from the ammeter. See if you can get your phone back up in there to take a picture FIRST. Hooking it up backwards afterwards can be a disaster.
Are you sure the speedo cable was the correct one? Sometimes there are different ends, and they don't interchange. Compare your original to the new one.
ONE thing to consider . . . when the instrument panel assys were installed at the factory, ALL of the various components were assembled off-line, so the complete instrument panel was walked through the front of the passenger compartment, as a unit, then bolted in and all of the wiring ends plugged into their main feeds. ONLY way to do it on the assy line! By observation, for the extensive project you have, unbolting the instrument panel, taking all of the main connectors loose, etc. can be the best way to do what you desire to do. Much easier than laying on your back and not knowing if you're doing it right, by observation.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Enjoy!
CBODY67
ok, i got that panel off. you are 100% correct. they screwed the switches in FROM THE BACK SIDE! . i know you explained why but it just seems like an *** backward way of doing things. I have new switches to put in, i just need to find a way to get the screws from the backside. i am open to any suggestions
rumor has it there is a gentleman who rebuilds the dimmer switches on the dash? maybe i could do it myself? i have to imagine its just taking some contact cleaner to the rheostat? or maybe i am over simplifying things a tad - i tend to do that a lot. hence my bright idea... "lets rewire my car!!"
That person is @Devinism - Devin Duke.
Bob Burgess
New Member
I just last week started the rewire of my 1958 Desoto the wiring was unmolested but very hard, as part of the resto of the whole car (I know its not a C body) and fit the harness flat on a plywood board and then drilled holes and loosely zip tied the old harness to the board allowing plenty of room. Removed all the tape and then replaced each colored wire one at a time, some were double, triple and even more multi joined but it went seamlessly then re-taped in black cloth tape first then got the correct plastic tape. I also used 4mm throughout unless it specified bigger as the wiring was very small, also these year models had very few fuses so I added a new fuse box as well. Saved all the original connectors and soldered all of the wires to the pins.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
ok, i got that panel off. you are 100% correct. they screwed the switches in FROM THE BACK SIDE! . i know you explained why but it just seems like an *** backward way of doing things. I have new switches to put in, i just need to find a way to get the screws from the backside. i am open to any suggestions
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You simply will have to unscrew the sheetmetal screws from the back side, BUT: you can cut/grind the length down to the front surface of your sheetmetal, THEN turn the short remainder out. Replace with 8-32 machine screws, w nuts and washers if you please. Now you can screw from the front, though you still will need to hold the nuts from behind the sheetmetal.
I'm BLESSED with a high degree of flexibility for working tight spaces like behind and under old Mopar dashboards, that came from practice in rewiring old buildings and cars alike. I probably would just replace the old sheetmetal screws with new ones, which at least are more likely to be in philips or even Torx heads. Those old slotted heads screws can be tedious, to be sure.
You might be able to even thread your screw holes with a small tap for your screws. Machine screws are preferable from the standpoint of future removal.
Any way you do this, there will be plenty bending, headstanding and such. I hope you're up to it!
You may have to 'bite the bullet' and remove your front seat, and the possibly steering column, to be able to access everything from the rear. A/C ducting as well?ok, i got that panel off. you are 100% correct. they screwed the switches in FROM THE BACK SIDE! . i know you explained why but it just seems like an *** backward way of doing things. I have new switches to put in, i just need to find a way to get the screws from the backside. i am open to any suggestions
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View attachment 534759
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I'm curious to know more about the 'new switches'
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