Exhaust Kit or Pay a Pro

DIY Exhaust Kit or Pay a Pro


  • Total voters
    11
  • Poll closed .
If you have a lift and a weekend, and some skills/patience, it can be done at a decent savings.
PLUS - you can make sure it all fits high and tight, the way YOU want, not the way some disinterested guy decides to do it.
Blocks of wood and under-hoist prop-supports are a huge help. Insert the wood between pipe and car, mash it up, and make pipes meet.
A single prop with a car-width 2x4 can hold both pipes from 1 location.
Some things you tack-weld on teh floor, some things you weld in as you go.
You install the tailpipes first, then everything else is Promontory Point.
Plan 2-3 steps (and cuts) ahead.

BUT - don't do it unless you have another car to drive to the parts store, or to drive to work on Monday while you await more pipes/bends from Summit!

I've done the last 5 cars myself at a buddy's on his lift. 68 Fury, 70 300, 65 300, 2 Lincoln Mark 7 LSCs (5.0 HO engine) and a 88 Dippy copcar.
#1 was Summit X-pipe with TTI tails.
#2 was Summit X-pipe with Flowmaster 2.5" B-body tails.
#3 was TTI H-pipe and Flowmaster 2.5" B-body tails.
#1 thru 3 were all 2.5" throughout.
Those were all mandrel-bent except the X-pipe setups required 2 15deg crinkle-bends outboard of the trans.

#4-5 (the Lincolns) were done with Summit Mustang GT cat-back kits and 2-1/4" home-fabbed tailpipes (from individual bends).
#6 (the Diplomat) was 2-1/4" Summit X-pipe and individual bends for the tailpipes. They dumped under the quarterpanel ala 66-67 Chevelle.

I used a Summit X-pipe kit (2 of them, to get some extra long-bends) and TTI tailpipes.
A-B-E-body kits are narrower, as the exhaust cutouts are symmetrical about the driveshaft, while the C-body is symmetrical to the width of the car.
So those would be easier to fab at home.
The Summit kit isn't long enough to fit the crossmember cutout on the driverside, so some extensions are needed.
But - you're fabbing most everything under the floorpan - so what's 1 more splice?

The headpipes actually turned out to be very easy, the correct angle-cut on them got them shooting rearward, and I got both cuts with little fuss.
The TTI tailpipes didn't fit very well. Folks rave about them, I didn't have good luck.
The Flowmaster B-body pipes were much better, and are what I would use on any future C-body.

I had considered some years ago to take off one of my systems and measure the angles, buy some custom bends, and tailor a Summit kit to be a near-bolt-on for a C-body.
Make a welding fixture off of my system to lay the new pipes in to weld certain pieces together, and weld bolting flanges in strategic locations, to make it all UPS-shippable.
Have ball-flanges hit the centerline of the crossmember widths so that a guy could hook up flexpipes to his existing exhaust and have a muffler shop finish it.
But - I never have time to pursue all the ideas my brain concocts.

I found 2 threads I did on the Drydock on car #1, priddineer 19 years ago.
Must've done an OK job, they are all still on the car and only needed 1 gasket change on 1 header flange.

My X-pipe thread:
Forums / Performance Tech / Hedman shorties, X-pipe kit, TTI tailpipes - C-Body DryDock
My Hedman #780-70 shorty header review:
https://cbodydrydock.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?22001.0

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@fury fan - Thank you! I will take a look through these threads. Very curious about this approach as I do have access to a lift and a friend who is a welder by trade.
 
Just got home from the exhaust shop. I found a local place that still bends and cuts custom exhaust. I ended up with a 2.5" front to back with Spelab cutouts and turbo mufflers and an X-pipe. I asked for an H-pipe but I guess they didn't have one.

Out the door it was $1250 for installation. I paid for the cutouts separately but they installed the pipe for me.

I was on the fence of doing it myself but my time has become limited and I didn't want to lose more of the driving season. It took them about 5 hours and includes a 1-year warranty.

Thank you all for the input and voting on the poll. I know the consensus was to DIY it but time got away from me.

I'll try to get photos but it's tough without a lift.
 
Out the door it was $1250 for installation. I paid for the cutouts separately but they installed the pipe for me.

I was on the fence of doing it myself but my time has become limited and I didn't want to lose more of the driving season. It took them about 5 hours and includes a 1-year warranty.

Just here to say there is nothing wrong with that! Working on our cars is fun, but it's not wrong to pay a professional if you have the means and want a job done quickly and correctly. A plumber and an accountant both have skills - it's not wrong to let the plumber fix the accountant's plumbing and the accountant manage the plumber's books.
 
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