As shown in the picture the valve and all the parts are gone. Is tapping threads for plugs a good solution?
Exhaust Manifold Heat Control Valve Missing
- Thread starter haywire 440
- Start date
Alternatively, you can knock the bushings out and put a 4” bolt with washers through the holes.
Do you think the brass sleeves might blow out, @CBODY67 ?
There were 2 short bolts, one on each side and I removed them thinking they hindered the exhaust flow. But now that I’m re-thinking that it must not matter because that rod, for the valve was in there anyways. Duh.
No, if they do, you've got other problems greater than that. They are a tight press-fit.
Tap for pipe plugs.
I was a little concerned the sleeves might twist out while tapping. I like that solution to fill the holes.
75LandYacht
Yank Tank
Out of curiosity, what’s the manifold for? It looks like you had a blasted and ceramic coated. Looks nice.
It’s for the ‘65 300L that has its own thread called “The cat is out of the bag”. The manifold was originally soaked in a molasses, believed it or not. That did take a lot of rust off but I wasn’t satisfied with the look. It was recently blasted with “well worn slag”.
I’m going to try a product called Slip Plate that is a dry lubricant. It’s supposed to last a good long time. It was recommended over on fbbo.
I'd knock the bushings out first.
Slip plate is awsome. You have a few choices that I see. Tap and thread and plug, put a shouldered bot through it so the shoulder hists both bushings. Or take them out and have them welded closed which would be my last choice in case you want to put it back in. Cant be a easy to find manifold. Man your close to me.
I actually saw your post on Slip Plate and the Canadian guy Stanton too. Others recommended Fluid Film also but I just got a gallon of SP. A lifetime supply for me.
The same here. Definately wear gloves stuff likes skin also. Fluid film is a wax lanolin actually great preservative against rust but will burn right off manifolds.
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