Sorry. I'm retired. Permanently.Anyone in the central florida are that can work on older mopars
How about trusted advisor?Sorry. I'm retired. Permanently.
That will work. Need all the help I can getHow about trusted advisor?
Having car restored. Interior done , paint done , but having issues with front and rear glass trim clips. If ok can u email me i84885@gmail.com if not I understandWhat's the issue?
Seriously, I don't know of any I the Central Florida area. He's better off looking for shops for the specific issue he wants to address.How about trusted advisor?
GM My most concerning issues will be steering and braking issues. The car has no PS fluid in it so I haven't been able to test for leaks gear box and pump may need to be replaced also drum brakes are working fine so far but this car will be a daily driver one day so I'm considering a disk brake conversion other minor issues may need to be address but I haven't seen car in monthsSeriously, I don't know of any I the Central Florida area. He's better off looking for shops for the specific issue he wants to address.
Lesson learned. Restoration is not as easy and quick as it looks on TV lolGM My most concerning issues will be steering and braking issues. The car has no PS fluid in it so I haven't been able to test for leaks gear box and pump may need to be replaced also drum brakes are working fine so far but this car will be a daily driver one day so I'm considering a disk brake conversion other minor issues may need to be address but I haven't seen car in months
This is something that needs to be repeated to every new guy that posts here about starting a "project car".Lesson learned. Restoration is not as easy and quick as it looks on TV lol
Actually car is in great condition but since it will be a DD my main concern will be safety. 68 newport 2 drTo the OP. I took a look at some of your earlier posts. I would keep the car as stock as possible and sell it.
Now if you really want a classic Chrysler to drive, take the money you get from sale and go find the best disc brake, big block, rust free shiny condition, electronic ignition, best interior, best chrome and stainless, etc, etc....
Pay for that best condition, turn key classic Chrysler and drive it. No restoration, just regular maintenance as you roll through the miles. Way ahead in the end.
You will be into a classic car restoration tens of thousands of dollars just doing it your self if your a skilled mechanic with a shop of tools. Let alone a guy that wants to pay a guy that might be able to pull off what you want.
Questions to ask the future builder/mechanic of your classic Chrysler. Past projects, where do you source your parts, have you been to any national mopar shows events, what does he drive, Are his projects complete, any on the road? If he says he knows all about C-bodies, does he know this forum, does he know about Murray park? Firm feel, Dr Diff. Etc... Etc...
Some of my thoughts on your rabbit hole.
I am not being mean or trying to be discouraging. I just saying from experience with cars that end up here with BS brake swaps and hacks to make them chevyized in ignition and carbs and on and on .....
I would have a time with your car, sourcing what parts and where to get in order to do a correct brake swap. easy a hundred hrs gets eaten up sourcing parts. Why lots of shops just open Summit site, order a kit, bolt it on, give it back and don't want to see you again after when you say it stops slower then the drums that were on it.
I had a Cuda here with a Wildwood disc swap, thin non vented 9" disc with aluminum hub, bolted onto old ball joints, broken lower control arm mount caused by missing lower bushing, master cylinder incorrectly sized, small nuts shoved into bore of master to take up slack for push rod depth, It goes on and on, and these cars come from so called professional shops. This Road Runner GTX I have here now, is a very shinny mess. So called restoration, after paint everything thrown together loose or missing bolts, screws and nuts all over, bumpers held on with four nuts. I gotta stop ranting.
Just saying You gotta be ready.
Add fluid and see if it leaks, swapping out a pump is easy, it's a matter of a few bolts.GM My most concerning issues will be steering and braking issues. The car has no PS fluid in it so I haven't been able to test for leaks gear box and pump may need to be replaced also drum brakes are working fine so far but this car will be a daily driver one day so I'm considering a disk brake conversion other minor issues may need to be address but I haven't seen car in months
Thanks for adviceTo the OP. I took a look at some of your earlier posts. I would keep the car as stock as possible and sell it.
Now if you really want a classic Chrysler to drive, take the money you get from sale and go find the best disc brake, big block, rust free shiny condition, electronic ignition, best interior, best chrome and stainless, etc, etc....
Pay for that best condition, turn key classic Chrysler and drive it. No restoration, just regular maintenance as you roll through the miles. Way ahead in the end.
You will be into a classic car restoration tens of thousands of dollars just doing it your self if your a skilled mechanic with a shop of tools. Let alone a guy that wants to pay a guy that might be able to pull off what you want.
Questions to ask the future builder/mechanic of your classic Chrysler. Past projects, where do you source your parts, have you been to any national mopar shows events, what does he drive, Are his projects complete, any on the road? If he says he knows all about C-bodies, does he know this forum, does he know about Murray park? Firm feel, Dr Diff. Etc... Etc...
Some of my thoughts on your rabbit hole.
I am not being mean or trying to be discouraging. I just saying from experience with cars that end up here with BS brake swaps and hacks to make them chevyized in ignition and carbs and on and on .....
I would have a time with your car, sourcing what parts and where to get in order to do a correct brake swap. easy a hundred hrs gets eaten up sourcing parts. Why lots of shops just open Summit site, order a kit, bolt it on, give it back and don't want to see you again after when you say it stops slower then the drums that were on it.
I had a Cuda here with a Wildwood disc swap, thin non vented 9" disc with aluminum hub, bolted onto old ball joints, broken lower control arm mount caused by missing lower bushing, master cylinder incorrectly sized, small nuts shoved into bore of master to take up slack for push rod depth, It goes on and on, and these cars come from so called professional shops. This Road Runner GTX I have here now, is a very shinny mess. So called restoration, after paint everything thrown together loose or missing bolts, screws and nuts all over, bumpers held on with four nuts. I gotta stop ranting.
Just saying You gotta be ready.
OK. Now you've got my interest.Actually car is in great condition but since it will be a DD my main concern will be safety. 68 newport 2 dr
BeautifulOK. Now you've got my interest.View attachment 590293
I got a snicker out of it when he said what it was. I knew that would catch your interest.OK. Now you've got my interest.View attachment 590293
The 67 Newport formerly know as Mine.