Finally got my dream car : 2-dr 300!

CitronPresse

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It may be a better option to replace all the fuel lines, the perfect opportunity once the tank is out.

Okay thanks for the advice!
For the rubber fuel lines (5/16) it should be quite easy, but for the steel lines I don't have the kit required, so it could be done later after the corona crisis when I'll get the car to my mechanic for an intensive check-up, and for all the repairs that I can't achieve by myself

I think I have a good amount of mechanical knowledge but it's mainly theoretical, I don't have many practical experience (other than for basic operations like oil changes, brakes, and bodywork as it's supposed to be my profession)
But the 300 is my chance to improve my skills :p

Anyway, all the best with your car, as for your English, it's good, interacting with native speakers like those on the forum will improve it, but there's nothing too much wrong (if anything) now.

Ahah happy to know that! :p
Like you said this car and this forum are a good reason and opportunity to get better! :thumbsup:
 

CitronPresse

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Since everything is ready for the arrival of the 300 next week, I have some time to share a few things...

First, my spare '70 440 engine and why I have it in my garage...
Back in summer of 2015 I had my '68 300 and my '71 Imperial, my passion for C-bodies was already contagious, and my good friend James also wanted a C-body
So we found a beautiful and very well-optioned '70 NewYorker Brougham, 2 hours from Quebec-city
Once there, we find a car in average condition for a canadian car...rusty, but working very well, and I'm impressed by the amount of options...power windows, power locks, power decklid release, optional wheel covers, automatic "sentinel" headlight dimmer, Autotemp climate control, rear air conditioning/heater, passenger mirror, cornering lamps, AM/FM stereo with 4 speakers and 8-track, cruise-control, dual exhaust...and I like the color combination: silver metallic with black interior and vinyl top...and the interior is like BRAND NEW!!
Otherwise, there is water infiltration through the backglass (it drips directly on the backseat), but we were young and crazy, we didn't realize that this car is too big a challenge

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My Imperial had no options but it was absolutely like new, his NewYorker was well worn but it was fully optioned, and the two cars together were beautiful...I think I even have a picture with our 3 C-bodies together (68 300, 70 NewYorker, 71 Imperial) but I can't find it!

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Check out this beautiful and brand new Holley carb in the NewYorker!

We had a great summer with our beautiful C-bodies :p

But the time passes, the NewYorker spends several winters buried under the snow...already rotten, it degrades quickly...
We change a ball-joint, James loses a piece of exhaust on the road, the valve covers start to leak, and in spring 2017, we found the car sagging on one side...the front driver side torsion bar broke during the winter...
The time has come to decide what to do with the poor NewYorker...
The car is too damaged, James decide to keep it for parts and plans to find another C-body next summer

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The trunk floor is surprisingly clean, but the frame, the floor pans, the firewall, the front fenders and rear quarters, everything is scrap

[the rest in the next post]
 
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CitronPresse

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Finally for personal reasons James must leave the house and the Chrysler must be removed before the snow...a race against the clock begins at this moment: there is no other solution than send the car to the scrapyard, but we want to save as many parts as possible
We dismantle the car as much as possible, starting with the engine
We lack time, tools, method, experience, shelter, and the weather is not at our side...it's freezing and the snow is coming quickly

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In the end, we saved the drivetrain, driving shaft, headlights, front bumper and grille, wheel covers, front bench seat, 2 door panel trims and a lot of little parts, moldings and accessories
Unfortunately we couldn't save the brand new tires, fuel tank (it would have been useful for me today), (like new) rear bumper, tailights, (like new) backseat, windows, right side door trim panels, (like new) dash, steering wheel, side chrome trims, wiper linkages and motor...
Over time, James abandons the plan to buy another Chrysler...knowing that I plan to buy one soon, he sells me part of the stock for a very good price: I got the drivetrain ('70 440 with the transmission), the brand new Holley performance carb, the driving shaft and a couple of other things for 400$ CAD (285$ US)

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This is why I have a spare engine in my garage ;)
I wanted to share with you the story of this car that marked me a lot...RIP NewYorker :(
For info the car still exists for now, the owner of the scrapyard is an acquaintance, I visit the scrapyard every spring, so I'll take some pictures soon of what's left...at least all the good parts may be useful to someone, since the scrapyard specializes in vintage cars ;)

James also leaved the rest of the stock in my basement so that I could put it for sale...everything is already listed on Mopar groups on Facebook but I'll list it on the forum soon, if someone is interested about some parts from the '70 NewYorker just ask: headlight sentinel system, headlight bezels, front grille, front bumper with turn signals, driver side black door trim panels, dash black ashtray, stereo speaker crossover multiplex, dash maplight black panel, deluxe wheel covers, front bench seat side chrome covers, glovebox black and woodgrain panel, steering wheel black center cover, left rear gray corner trim, rear air conditioning/heater system, headlight assemblies...
 
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CitronPresse

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After James' NewYorker and since I still have time, I'd like to present you another car which has its place in the story..."Denizen"'s '71 Lincoln Continental Coupe, Denizen is sort of my Yoda, an old sage who has helped temper my pulsives over the years, making me stay focused on my goal of finding my dream-car: a 2-door Fuselage 300 instead of buying the first cheap old car that shows up
My friend Denizen is a self-taught who worked miracles on his Lincoln, for those who like well-stocked threads, here is that of his Lincoln:
TheLincolnForum.Net • View topic - 1970 Lincoln fever: just picked up my new coupe

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Next to my (ex) Imperial, we realize the difference in appearance between a stock and lowered suspension...the lowered car seems wider and even bigger
Like I said I'm rather "OEM or nothing" habitually, but as I intend to keep my '69 300 for a very long time, I intend to make it a little more "roar" to my taste, with a slight lowering and (gradually) some performance upgrades like exhausts, headers, aluminium intake manifold, performance carb (the Holley I already have or another one), and probably a camshaft
But before that obviously the priority is to restore it to safe working condition! :)
 

CitronPresse

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The beast has arrived!

Went to get the car yesterday, she barely got in the trailer, but she entered! :p
I don't have pictures of the entry or the exit unfortunately, sorry

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The truck did its job perfectly, with almost 10,000lbs to tow for 1 hour :p

The 300's fuel tank is not operational but the engine is running with a gas can connected to the fuel pump...at least, it WAS running...it always worked very well according to the former owner who always moved the car this way, and it worked to start the car and put it in the trailer
When I got home, the car started, idled for a while, then stalled because the (small) fuel can was almost empty
I filled it, then the car never started again...it cranks but it's like gas doesn't arrive to the carb
After a few tries the battery was dead (it was an old battery only to move the car), so we got the car out to pushing it

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Then since there is a slight climb we pushed it into the garage using the pick-up, with a tire between the two bumpers... :D

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Redneck but it worked fine, the car came in its new place at the first shot, now I could start to relax!

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I don't know why she didn't start anymore but I'm not too worried, maybe the feeding hose was too much at the bottom of the can and could not bring enough fuel to feed the greedy 440, maybe some air got into the fuel line when the pump ran out of gas...in this case I think I should "prime" the system but anyway I plan to change several rubber fuel lines, not to say all...
Now the car is in the garage, the priority will be to remove the fuel tank to bring it to radiator shop for a refurbishing (boiling/cleaning, lining)

I have not seen it but I expect that the fuel sending unit in the tank to be dead...I read several things about it on the net: what do you recommend?
Install a new one or repair the original one with new parts?
Some advise against the new reproduction part because it is often of poor quality, these prefer to only change the float and the "sock" if the rest is salvageable, what do you guys think?


After that, taking advantage of the fact that the car is perfectly dry (it hasn't seen the weather since fall), I'll apply silicone around the backglass and windshield moldings to isolate them (or rather the gap under them) from humidity/rain: the car is safe for the time I work on it (a few weeks probably) but after that it will stay outside for the whole summer season :(

Another point to improve...there is no power brake, it brakes very well but it needs a big effort on the pedal (no more power brakes), and the pedal goes almost to the floor (brakes need to be bleeded)
The seller told me he managed to bleed the rear brakes but he was not able to do it up front (althought the bleeders are good)
I will have to change the brake booster, I found it on Rockauto but I have to send them my brake booster so that they can fix it and send it back...I don't have time for that: I am not going to remove the booster by myself by lack of experience, it will have to be done by my mechanic and he will probably not be open for weeks (thanks coronavirus), so I prefer to have the new part in hand so that he installs it when he opens

I heard some horror stories about master-cylinder/brake boosters on C-bodies that didn't fit, someone would have advice for me, a site where I could find the right part for sure? (I'm in Canada)

Thanks guys if you accept to help me, if so I will need a lot of advice and experience sharing in the few next weeks :D

At least the car is at home, I didn't expect to be able to bring it home for weeks, now I can start moving forward to get the car ready to go the mechanic, who will do a complete check-up and tell me what should be done in order to get back the car on the road safely! :)
 
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3C's & a D?

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Hey hubcap hoarder! Glad the new car made it home safe and sound. It looks great! I enjoyed the story of the New Yorker, the top side sure looked good, very similar to my story with a '71 Newport, though I knew it was a parts car when I bought it. And for what it's worth, it wasn't a Brougham, that package wasn't available on a New Yorker until '74. And It's not an HP 440, as you stated in your first post, it could be though!

You're right, a little prime is all it needs. And it's a dirty job, but you have to get under there, clean the area around the sending unit really well, apply penetrating fluid around the lock ring, use a hardwood or brass punch, or the proper tool, to remove. Inspect unit and tank, go from there. Be sure to save original lock ring if you need a new tank (hopefully not).

No silicone under the trim! That would make doing the job the right way even more of a pain, and may risk breaking the glass or bending the trim(when trying to remove). To buy some time you can remove the rear seat and surrounding window trim, and carefully cut away excess butyl. You may be able to see some gaps at this point. Squeeze as much urethane into them as possible and apply a small bead around the perimeter. I've done this with great results.

The master cylinder should be easy enough to find locally, booster is a little trickier. And looking at it, it needs replacing. Sometimes previous owners have installed the incorrect master, that one looks like a drum/drum master. Does your car have discs? If it's drum/drum, I have an extra booster, it needs rebuilding though, that usually runs about 4-500$. And careful when looking, B body's used the same booster, with a longer or shorter rod, I can't remember, it makes a difference, ask me how I know.
 
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CitronPresse

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Hey thank you very much for your complete and detailed answer, I really appreciate!! :D

Hey hubcap hoarder!

Ahahaha yes I haven't had time to tell you about it yet but I'm an incorrigible collector...
I picked up this lot of 1000+ vintage hubcaps (from 1930s to 70s, mainly 50/60s) recently, they will be used to decorate my garage walls when I have time (once retired) to take care of them :rofl:
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The problem is that in addition to collecting the real cars (6) and hubcaps (1200) I also collect car books (400+), car magazines (1500), car emblems/crests (2500), diecast cars (3000+) and dealership car brochures (12,000)... :BangHead: :realcrazy:

Glad the new car made it home safe and sound. It looks great! I enjoyed the story of the New Yorker, the top side sure looked good, very similar to my story with a '71 Newport, though I knew it was a parts car when I bought it. And for what it's worth, it wasn't a Brougham, that package wasn't available on a New Yorker until '74. And It's not an HP 440, as you stated in your first post, it could be though!

Ahah thanks! :p
Parts-cars are often heartbreaking, but it's true that sometimes we have no choice :(

Sorry for the Brougham, I was sure it was but you are right, there was no Brougham NewYorkers in '70! :eek:

For the HP you're right too, at first i thought the dual-exhaust NewYorkers were all HP, I learned later that there was no HP NewYorker but I still called this one 440HP anyway I don't know why

You're right, a little prime is all it needs. And it's a dirty job, but you have to get under there, clean the area around the sending unit really well, apply penetrating fluid around the lock ring, use a hardwood or brass punch, or the proper tool, to remove. Inspect unit and tank, go from there. Be sure to save original lock ring if you need a new tank (hopefully not).

Alright thank you! :)
For the tank in the worst case (if there is some pinholes) as far I understand the shop can fix them, but for the sending unit I hope that the unit itself will be good and that I can just change the float and the sock
I plan to remove the tank tomorrow (the bolts are not even rusty, I'm sure that it was removed recently), I keep you informed! :p

No silicone under the trim! That would make doing the job the right way even more of a pain, and may risk breaking the glass or bending the trim(when trying to remove). To buy some time you can remove the rear seat and surrounding window trim, and carefully cut away excess butyl. You may be able to see some gaps at this point. Squeeze as much urethane into them as possible and apply a small bead around the perimeter. I've done this with great results.

I didn't know your method of acting for the inside, that's a good idea I'll try that to prevent water from entering the car thanks! :)
For the silicone the goal is above all to prevent rainwater from infiltrating under the moldings and stagnating there, eventually creating rust
The method is to apply rows of masking tape around the backglass molding, one on the body, one on the glass, and one on the molding (to do a visually clean and straight job), then apply a layer of silicone in the gap, only to block the passage to the water
If the job is done well, the water cannot get in any way so no trapped moisture possible, and the silicone applied in a enough small amount to prevent it from filling the space under the molding, can be cut and removed in case I later want to remove the backglass and the moldings
My good friend Denizen always did that on his Lincolns and I tried this method on my previous '68 300, it was quite good :)
In the case of a car that spends its (summer) time exposed to the weather I think it is very important to prevent water and moisture from seeping under the moldings and under the vinyl top
But if other methods exist I am fully attentive! :D

The master cylinder should be easy enough to find locally, booster is a little trickier. And looking at it, it needs replacing. Sometimes previous owners have installed the incorrect master, that one looks like a drum/drum master. Does your car have discs? If it's drum/drum, I have an extra booster, it needs rebuilding though, that usually runs about 4-500$. And careful when looking, B body's used the same booster, with a longer or shorter rod, I can't remember, it makes a difference, ask me how I know.

Oh yes I realize that the booster is quite difficult to find! :eek:
Mine is drum/drum

I found that on Rockauto: I have to send them a booster to rebuild, the operation itself seems affordable ($93 for the booster or $167 including the master-cylinder) but the shipping cost is not included and that's what must be expensive!
1969 CHRYSLER 300 7.2L 440cid V8 Power Brake Booster | RockAuto
Your booster might very well interest me, how much do you ask for it? :)

Great thanks for the precisions about the shorter/longer rods from B-bodies, and for all the infos!!! :thankyou:
 

CitronPresse

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I spent yersterday to examine the car in more detail, I found many little bad surprises, some little good surprises and one big good surprise! :)

I'll post more details later but overall the car is amazingly sound and solid, there is no important rust, only surface rust! :)
And as I was thinking the engine has actually been changed under warranty by Chrysler, but they actually put a 1973 engine unfortunately :(
I would have preferred it to be a 1969 like that I would have had two pre-smog 440s (one 69 and one 70) but I see the positive side: I will be able to modify the '70 engine at my own pace, gradually, without immobilizing the car at each operation! :)
 

73 T&C

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Congrats on getting your 300! And thanks for sharing. Look forward to seeing your progress.

Like your DS21 too!
 

3C's & a D?

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Love the minivan loaded with wheel covers!

For the HP you're right too, at first i thought the dual-exhaust NewYorkers were all HP, I learned later that there was no HP NewYorker but I still called this one 440HP anyway I don't know why

You could get an HP New Yorker, and they did make some. They would have came with factory dual exhaust. I'm guessing that car had duals? It would have been converted at some point. HP engine would be orange and have different exhaust manifolds.

I can just change the float and the sock

If the float floats, keep it, I'd the sock is in good shape, clean it. If the whole unit is corroded, it's probably time to change out. Before you do that though, search this forum for "fuel sender restoration" I seem to recall a member or two cleaning old one's up. Also good info pertaining to purchasing new.

For the silicone the goal is above all to prevent rainwater from infiltrating under the moldings and stagnating there, eventually creating rust
The method is to apply rows of masking tape around the backglass molding, one on the body, one on the glass, and one on the molding (to do a visually clean and straight job), then apply a layer of silicone in the gap, only to block the passage to the water
If the job is done well, the water cannot get in any way so no trapped moisture possible, and the silicone applied in a enough small amount to prevent it from filling the space under the molding, can be cut and removed in case I later want to remove the backglass and the moldings

That's one way to go about it, if it's worked for you in the past, I say go for it! That way you don't have to take all the interior stuff out.

found that on Rockauto: I have to send them a booster to rebuild, the operation itself seems affordable ($93 for the booster or $167 including the master-cylinder) but the shipping cost is not included and that's what must be expensive!
1969 CHRYSLER 300 7.2L 440cid V8 Power Brake Booster | RockAuto
Your booster might very well interest me, how much do you ask for it? :)

Great thanks for the precisions about the shorter/longer rods from B-bodies, and for all the infos!!!

Don't go the rock auto route, you will regret it if you do. There may be reputable brake shop in your area that can offer this service. Again, a good job is going to be 4-500 CAD. This is why guys buy the rock auto one, because it's "such a great deal"! Not when you have to return it three times! You get what you pay for. I would give you the one I have if you want to pay for shipping. It's from a '70 though, I'll take some pictures and get the part number. Since the car isn't roadworthy right now, if I was you, I'd take it off, and get it in right away.
And you're welcome, it's great to see these old beauty's getting ready for the road again!
 
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LocuMob

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For your tank, make sure you reuse the lock ring, new replacement ones will leak.
 

CitronPresse

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Okay guys so I've made some progress on the 300

The tank is removed, it took me about 30mn it was quite easy since the bolts were in perfect condition :)

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However the tank itself is in a terrible condition...
The car was probably stored with the tank almost empty or I don't know, but the inside is awful
I emptied the little old rust-gas mix that was left, the pictures speak from themselves

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Here are the fuel sending unit :eek:
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If you tell me that it can be cleaned and rebuild with new sock and float I'll try but in this condition I think that it's dead...I would have preferred to keep the original one than a jobber but...

My biggest fear is for the tank: I found several small holes (I'll probably find others by searching)
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I'm supposed to bring it to the radiator shop early next week for the rebuild (boiling, cleaning, sandblasting probably, and lining), but can they fix the holes? :eek:

Congrats on getting your 300! And thanks for sharing. Look forward to seeing your progress.
Like your DS21 too!

Thanks!! :thankyou:
Ohoh you have an SM!? :eek:

Love the minivan loaded with wheel covers!

Ahahah yes it was a funny moment :rofl:
A brand new rental van (3000km IIRC) loaded with old dirty hubcaps (they layed in a trailer in the wood for 40 years) to the ceiling...


You could get an HP New Yorker, and they did make some. They would have came with factory dual exhaust. I'm guessing that car had duals? It would have been converted at some point. HP engine would be orange and have different exhaust manifolds.

Yes it was factory dual exhaust ;)
But the engine is blue and I think it has regular exhaust manifolds so it's officially a regular engine, thanks for the precisions! :)
I've not yet taken the time to dig up the engine from my garage to decode its numbers

If the float floats, keep it, I'd the sock is in good shape, clean it. If the whole unit is corroded, it's probably time to change out. Before you do that though, search this forum for "fuel sender restoration" I seem to recall a member or two cleaning old one's up. Also good info pertaining to purchasing new.

Hehe I now have the answer: the float no longer floats at all :rofl: (see above)
And I'm almost sure there is nothing left to do with my sending unit unfortunately :(
What do you think about it?

Don't go the rock auto route, you will regret it if you do. There may be reputable brake shop in your area that can offer this service. Again, a good job is going to be 4-500 CAD. This is why guys buy the rock auto one, because it's "such a great deal"! Not when you have to return it three times! You get what you pay for.

Thanks for this info! :)
It's true that as long as I change it I would like to be okay for years!

I would give you the one I have if you want to pay for shipping. It's from a '70 though, I'll take some pictures and get the part number. Since the car isn't roadworthy right now, if I was you, I'd take it off, and get it in right away.
And you're welcome, it's great to see these old beauty's getting ready for the road again!

Oh wow you are really very nice!! Thanks a lot!! :thumbsup:
I'm still evaluating my options, I posted ads to find one and I don't know yet if I'll buy one or opt for the rebuild way in a shop near that I found near me (I'm waiting for a quote)

A guy offers me one in good condition but apparently there are 2 versions of bolt pattern between the 4 studs that go info the firewall, I'll try to measure this bolt pattern on my car to be sure

For your tank, make sure you reuse the lock ring, new replacement ones will leak.

Great thanks for this useful info I was not aware of that! :)
I'll have to change the seal but I'll keep the original lock ring!
 

3C's & a D?

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I'm supposed to bring it to the radiator shop early next week for the rebuild (boiling, cleaning, sandblasting probably, and lining), but can they fix the holes?

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that tank is shot! That's the worst I've ever seen. You can see what the guy's at the shop say, I'd say you need a new one. With the amount of holes visible now, by the time it's been cleaned and boiled, it'll look like a strainer. Too much work to fix. I could be wrong, see what they say. They're available new, made in Canada too! The company's name is Spectra. And it appears you'll need a new sender too.

A guy offers me one in good condition but apparently there are 2 versions of bolt pattern between the 4 studs that go info the firewall, I'll try to measure this bolt pattern on my car to be sure

Careful if buying used, just because a booster "looks" good doesn't mean it "works" good.
 

CitronPresse

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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that tank is shot! That's the worst I've ever seen. You can see what the guy's at the shop say, I'd say you need a new one. With the amount of holes visible now, by the time it's been cleaned and boiled, it'll look like a strainer. Too much work to fix. I could be wrong, see what they say. They're available new, made in Canada too! The company's name is Spectra. And it appears you'll need a new sender too.

Unfortunately this is what I also think: if holes are already present before I even touch it, I'm afraid that after cleaning it'll be unrecognizable...
Obviously I'll see what they say, but I prepare for the worst :/

However I just remembered something: years ago I was delivery man for a little car parts shop and I often went to get orders from a supplier called Spectra Premium...I just made the connection: they are the ones who make new tanks, as well as most sending units!
After some research I see they are based in Boucherville (2 hours from here) so monday I'll just call their warehouse here in Quebec (5 mn from my home), if they receive truckloads of parts every week they can order a tank from me and save me the (exorbitant) shipping cost
A new tank from eBay or Rockauto costs me $450 + $300 (CDN) for shipping, if I can buy it directly at the source it'd be nice!

Spectra seems to make most of sending units but I only found one on the net (not made by Spectra)
Mopar Fuel Gas Sending Unit 5/16" 67-73 Fury Monaco 300 Newport New Yorker | eBay
Since it's the only one I found (even Rockauto doesn't have one) I'll probably buy this one, hoping it fits...

Careful if buying used, just because a booster "looks" good doesn't mean it "works" good.

Alright thank you! :)
I'm collecting all the informations and prices for now but if I can just have mine rebuild I think it would be better than buy a used one without proof that it works




Other question: the idea of not having music in my car (there are no more AM stations here in Quebec-city) is painful, so I'm looking for an AM-FM OEM radio, I found one but it seems to be from a 72 Chrysler and I'm not sure if it could fit in mine: I'm a real noob, are original specs from the car important?
My car is a factory 1 speaker AM sound system, it has 2 added rear speakers, will an AM-FM radio be "plug and play"? I imagine not...what should I do to make it work in my car?
It seems that it is a Motorola Mk2, here are some pictures
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Can it be fitted in my car ('69 300) or I better find the exact model?

Once again, thanks for your help! :)
 

3C's & a D?

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That would be great if you could get the parts directly! No AM radio! Chris Parnell would be disappointed. The dashes are the same from '69-'72 on Chrysler's, but there were so many different radios offered, I can't tell you if it would fit. I keep the one in the dash for looks, and install a new deck in the glove box, if you do this, be sure to get a deck with a remote. Lots of guy's are praising those Bluetooth speaker's.
 

brougham brummel

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I love those early 70,s chunky looking lincolns.Love them.They are my 2nd tier favorites in full size luxe boats. I just like chryslers more.There,s a subtle sinister quality to them that say,s i,m big and bad.heh.B>B
 

slamabad

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After James' NewYorker and since I still have time, I'd like to present you another car which has its place in the story..."Denizen"'s '71 Lincoln Continental Coupe, Denizen is sort of my Yoda, an old sage who has helped temper my pulsives over the years, making me stay focused on my goal of finding my dream-car: a 2-door Fuselage 300 instead of buying the first cheap old car that shows up
My friend Denizen is a self-taught who worked miracles on his Lincoln, for those who like well-stocked threads, here is that of his Lincoln:
TheLincolnForum.Net • View topic - 1970 Lincoln fever: just picked up my new coupe

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Next to my (ex) Imperial, we realize the difference in appearance between a stock and lowered suspension...the lowered car seems wider and even bigger

I would bring the suspension back to stock but what an appealing car!

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Kram Edyorloh

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C Bodys look better lowered around 1-2inches IMO if its possible
My 300 with DeTomaso Pantera wheels. LOL, I worked on Renault 5 and DS back in the 70's.80's, do the headlights turn with the steering? also had a 1,4 Gordini for a while
My 300 with a 2" drop...".before it was Trendy"

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Kram Edyorloh

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Just for giggles the Duster just behind it had complete drive train out of a '70 440+6 Super Bee, we bought one for £800 in the late 80's and cut it up for the D/T...Plum crazy car, white int, white vinyl, crazy days when it did not matter about values.

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