Fixed one issue another popped up

jct

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Fixed my over heating issue due to a intake manifold gasket leak.

Now it seems like it's choking for air. Already changed the condenser and reset the point gap. No change, i have plenty of fuel and air filter appears to be clean enough. Even with the air filter off it's choking for air. Everything was fine before this happened back in early May

It sort of stumbles from a stop
 
Base timing and vac advance are fine? Accel pump output?
 
Base timing is set at 10° btdc, carburetor is new rebuilt last year or so BBD
 
You had a vacuum leak with that gasket giving the engine more air at idle.
Lean out your idle.
 
Get yourself a vacuum gauge and use it to tune.

https://fordsix.com/ci/Vacuum.html

When using any vacuum gauge keep in mind that they are all calibrated at sea level and read-outs in the instructions are in reference to that level. When above sea level all readings will drop one division per each 1,000 feet of altitude above sea level. Thus a reading of 20 inches of vacuum at sea level would drop to 19 inches at 1,000 feet, 18 inches at 2,000 feet, etc. All readings are taken at idle except as noted.

If your engine is barely able to sustain 2"Hg vacuum at idle, it will be hard to tune using this method, but it is still useful. In most cases if you use a quality large faced Vacuum gauge, with some experience you can effectively tune your car's fuel and timing systems. Tuning with the engine running compensates for wear in the timing gear and valve train, and therefore providing better results than with the manufacturers recommended settings.

Note: All adjustments are made with the transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL, with the exception of Idle Speed, which is set in DRIVE.

Caution: Make all adjustments from the side of the vehicle, rather than standing in front of it.


Vacuum Gage Connection

Connect the gauge to a "manifold" vacuum source, NOT "ported" vacuum, that rises as RPM increases. In most cases this will be a direct manifold source or possibly the PCV port (larger port) on the carb.

Start by first warming the engine and note the idle vacuum reading. Normal vacuum at idle should be 19-21 inches for a six cylinder, or 15-18 inches on a low compression engine. Pre-set the ignition timing so that it is close to the manufactures recommended setting, before making any carb adjustments.

Carb Adjustments

To adjust the carb, start by leaning out one of the mixture screws (turn in) until the gauge as well as the engine begins to shudder. Next bring the screw back towards rich (turn out), while watching the gauge. Stop adjusting when the gauge reaches it's highest reading. Then do the same process for the other mixture screw. After each adjustment is made, reset your idle speed.

Small adjustments are best, and in fact "optimum" carb settings on the vacuum gauge (highest reading) is usually richer than it needs to be. In other words, once the highest reading is reached, back-off (or lean) the adjustment approximately 1/4 turn in. You may have to repeat the process a few times to get optimum results, but it's worth the time and effort.

Note: With a properly jetted carburetor, turning either of the mixture screws all the way lean, should kill the engine. If not, you're too rich! This may require re-jetting, or drilling the primary butterflies to add more idle air. Many of the newer "race" carbs allow you to change Idle air bleeds to fix this.

For carbs with 4-corner mixture screws, you have to take a bit more time. You can also run the engine at a "steady-state" RPM of say, 2500 RPM to double-check your secondary mixture screw settings. Do this with temperament! It takes time to get used to what you are seeing as well as if it is actually helping. Each engine will behave differently.

Remember to rev the engine to clear the spark plugs before taking your final reading and readjust if necessary. When you blip the throttle, the needle should drop to as low as 2, pop back up to as high as 26, and quickly level off in the normal zone.

Ignition Timing

After the carb mixture is set, you can proceed with the ignition timing. Slacken the distributor clamp bolt, and with the engine still at idle, advance or retard the ignition until the highest steady vacuum reading is obtained. Then retard the timing until the vacuum gauge reading drops slightly, approximately one half to one inch. In some cases, you may need to retard the timing up to two inches to prevent pre-igniton (pinging).

Note: If you can't get the reading into the "normal" zone by adjusting the distributor then valve timing is the problem. Timing with a vacuum gauge will normally result in timing that is more advanced than what specifications call for, so you need to be alert for any pre-ignition (pinging) in the engine and adjust accordingly (retard the timing if needed).

Your engine should now be tuned to perfection.
 
Adjusted the a/f and no change, the car shakes when i accelerate and at a steady throttle. I did do a propane test around the intake area no change, only change i noticed is when i put it down the throat of the carburetor and I did notice a change there

I still do have my old BBD carburetor with the one air mixture screw in the back
 
Let’s go step by step.
Correct me if my facts are off. Only going off what I think I am reading and maybe remember
‘68 383 2bbl ?
Was running fine until over heating issues in May?
While fixing over heating issues the carb was removed?
Was any thing done with the carb when it was off?
How long did it sit?
Was a carb kit put in and/or was it cleaned with carb cleaner?
Have you tried spraying carb cleaner into any of the air ports or jets and letting it sit a while?
How does it idle and at what RPM?
Is your base timing still 10 degrees with vacuum advance pinched off?
I know a thousand questions, but should help narrowing down the issue. Whether it is a plugged carb or timing issue.
My guess is that since it was running smoothly and you didn’t mess with the timing (assumption) when you fixed the intake gasket, that you may have something gummed up in the carb or taking it off and moving it, dislodged some debris causing some plugging.
Those BBd’s are simple and don’t take much to set if clean and not plugged.
 
My current BBD i got and put on last year or two just so i can tune the a/f mixture screws instead of the one air mixture screw on the 68 BBD's. (Which was rebuilt and bought off of eBay)

I still drove my car just to keep fluids moving that was every few weeks or once a month

My timing is at 10° with the advanced plugged off, idles kind of rough

From what you're saying i need to open it up and clean it out
 
Are you sure you didn't disturb anything ignition related?

Does the carb have a choke pull off?
If so, have you checked to make sure it's working?
 
if you can't kill the engine when it's idling by adjusting the mixture screws you either still have a vac leak or the carb is messed up. Since you're having trouble at more than idle, if it's the carb it's not just the idle circuit but the main circuit as well.

Can you confirm whether you can kill the engine by adjusting the mixture screws? What happens to the vacuum reading when the engine acts up?
 
you still have a major vacuum leak then somewhere. It's possible to have a leak on the underside of the intake ports. Try to aim your carb cleaner or propane under the intake and into the valley pan area and to the underside of the ports to see if you pick up rpm.
 
I have my tin foil insulation under there ಠ_ಠ

I already know that the bottom half of my engine needs rebuilt
 
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spray carb cleaner all around the intake while running and listen for any change if the motor changes you still have a vacuum leak on the intake
 
Adjusted the a/f and no change, the car shakes when i accelerate and at a steady throttle. I did do a propane test around the intake area no change, only change i noticed is when i put it down the throat of the carburetor and I did notice a change there

I still do have my old BBD carburetor with the one air mixture screw in the back
what was the change you noticed with the propane down the carb ? speed up, bog down or smooth out ?
 
2-3 inches at idle? I'm going with late valve timing. If you haven't done a timing chain yet its where I'd put my money.
 
With propane down the barrels it smoothed out

I did a timing chain 2-3 years ago
 
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