Fury brake pedal return spring

66furys

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What say yee C body.....problems bleeding new master cylinder. So, I get up under dash to check play in the pedal so the cylinder can return.....yes play. But, could not get pedal. So, back up under, wiggling and waggling the pedal.....still play, not tight. But, all of a sudden I have pedal. So, I am concerned about the new master piston and seals sticking, not returning fully....unknown. So, just to help things out, I added a small spring on the pedal to make sure at least it fully returns.....I am surprised there was no sign of a return spring, just to keep the thing back up in place, relying on the springs inside the master. But, your thoughts please.
 
The brake shoe springs are really what make the pedal return. IMHO, you don't want to use an extra spring to pull the pedal up.

There's a few things that could make you have a low pedal. Probably first and foremost is the brake shoe adjustment. If you've just put new shoes on, are they adjusted?

The length of the pushrod into the MC can also give you problems if it's not adjusted correctly... Including problems bleeding the brakes.

Do you have power brakes?
 
Got your points, but I think that maybe because the pedal was not coming up, the piston was not returning, meaning no opening of the orifice to allow fluid into the cylinder....but am guessing yet. So, after my wiggling and moving, the pedal is back near top....so I am guessing. But, to your other points, I have done initial adjustment with pretty tight drums on the two I have finished. Will need to be done again, as will bleeding at the wheels. You are correct in pedal travel with loose shoes....so try to keep up with that. But, for some reason, there is no adjustment in the pushrod.....except for the stop and light switch. The last thing here is that if the pedal sticks or does not return, after applying the brakes, that fluid could not return.....and I would HOPE that you other point about the brake shoe springs should force the master cylinder back home??? I have not been able to see this happen yet, since I have not worked brakes after getting back some pedal....more bleeding first. But thank you for all great points.
 
I would be surprised if you need the return spring after all you brake work is done.

Keep in mind adding a return spring is not fixing the issue. I have done things like this many times to put a band aid on the issue but know it is only band aid. I had an old farm truck that the pedal would not always return and the brake lights would stay on an kill the battery, I did the same thing you did and never had an issue, then again this was a farm truck that saw more miles in the hay field than the road.
 
Do you have power brakes?

there is no adjustment in the pushrod
That answers the question about power brakes. The manual brake pushrod isn't adjustable.

Keep in mind adding a return spring is not fixing the issue.
^This^

Got your points, but I think that maybe because the pedal was not coming up, the piston was not returning, meaning no opening of the orifice to allow fluid into the cylinder....but am guessing yet. So, after my wiggling and moving, the pedal is back near top....so I am guessing. But, to your other points, I have done initial adjustment with pretty tight drums on the two I have finished. Will need to be done again, as will bleeding at the wheels. You are correct in pedal travel with loose shoes....so try to keep up with that. But, for some reason, there is no adjustment in the pushrod.....except for the stop and light switch. The last thing here is that if the pedal sticks or does not return, after applying the brakes, that fluid could not return.....and I would HOPE that you other point about the brake shoe springs should force the master cylinder back home??? I have not been able to see this happen yet, since I have not worked brakes after getting back some pedal....more bleeding first. But thank you for all great points.


Did you bench bleed the MC or are you trying to do it on the car? You get faster and much better results doing it on the bench. You get more travel on the piston.

What about hoses? If the brake hoses are old or damaged, that will cause a return problem.

Without the entire system finished, it's hard to tell if you have a problem or if you just need to complete what you've started.

Finish up the other brakes, adjust them, then bleed until you have a hard pedal.
 
Again, good points. Yes I did bench bleed, but took the so called first option which uses plugs......and I will not do that again. Next time I will make the lines to dump back into reservoir instead. New hoses on front so far. As our day here warms, I will bleed the two again, and make sure things are on track....and hope I dont loose the pedal again.
 
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