Hard shift

Thanks for clarifying and keeping things on track.
Sometimes when learning something new people can read into it too much when trying to understand.
He asked for pictures,which i provided.
I agree not much point chasing original parts.
I did not follow the FSM either since I had modified my engine and trans internals so the book was useless.
Pretty much went by test and tune.
Cheers!
NP, sorry for being brash.
Pictures are worth a 1000 words.
The FSM have a technical way to do this adjustment for that "just so shift" for the non car enthusiast customer, none of us are that person, so simple is good, a firm shift is better.
 
I can't flip the rod....won't fit with the current carb lever...added the spring and adjusted...made a big difference. The fsm procedure gives me a good starting place since I don't know how it's supposed to act stock...from here I can adjust to my liking.
 
Its an edelbrock thunder series avs.

OK I just googled that and the Edelbrock site lists it as "Application - Universal"

Also this;

PARTS RECOMMENDED FOR INSTALLATION

Throttle Linkage Kits for Ford or Chrysler applications
(see "Carburetor Preparation" section, Step #1)

CARBURETOR PREPARATION
Chrysler vehicles with automatic transmission will require Throttle
Lever Kit #1481.

May wanna check the throttle lever and see if it's the correct one.
 
OK I just googled that and the Edelbrock site lists it as "Application - Universal"

Also this;

PARTS RECOMMENDED FOR INSTALLATION

Throttle Linkage Kits for Ford or Chrysler applications
(see "Carburetor Preparation" section, Step #1)

CARBURETOR PREPARATION
Chrysler vehicles with automatic transmission will require Throttle
Lever Kit #1481.

May wanna check the throttle lever and see if it's the correct one.

You are absolutely correct....and even without checking yet I'm positive it's not the correct lever setup....but will look into it and see what I can find out.
 
Looks like it has the Chrysler adapter on the lever. You need to flip the rod over. It's on the wrong side of the bell crank and the geometry is off, low point looks like it will bind with pivot on the bellcrank at WOT.
 
67 newport 383/727

So I finally started driving the Newport and I'm finding that it seems to stay in gears a bit too long and then shifts a bit hard due to higher rpms. Anyone have thoughts on this? Kickdown not adjusted right? No clue where it is actually supposed to shift but I'm sure it's not kicking down when it should and I don't know anything about adjusting that.
Shorten the kickdown rod, drivers side of carb goes down to the transmission. End is threaded so remove from stud on carb linkage and screw it clockwise to shorten. Only do about 1 turn at a time and retry.
 
I have a similar issue. Only picked this up at the weekend. As you can see zip tied at present! Any advice appreciated. Do l just need correct spring, or am I looking at new kick down linkage? Thanks

ADCB06AE-7751-4EFA-824C-3E00974999C7.jpeg
 
could you post a closer picture of the linkage? the throttle cable looks strange.
 
the carb bracket is not right. the geometry is all wrong. the throttle , cruise and kickdown should all be parallel with each other on a flat plane. it must be tough to push the gas pedal with the way the return spring is set up. you have to pull the carb linkage over center while fighting the resistance of the spring. can't say about the kickdown because i don't know where the rod sits at rest. yes, you need a spring :) also if your throttle cable is being held by a piece of wire, like it looks, that could be dangerous.
 
Yes, it does need sorting. However pedal to the floor is smooth, although those zip ties are not doing anything.

The other lose cable I think must be the original one, as it does not seem to be attached to anything.

Also, I could not see a choke cable. Are these set up with a automatic choke?

As you can tell im new to these engines
 
I will take some more pictures, but any assistance as to how to rectify appreciated.
 
So this is an older thread of mine, but I did finally get it all figured out. I was having issues with it never kicking down after getting the shift points correct...or so i thought. with my speedo being really far off I didnt realize the speeds were still off. It took adjusting the throttle rod about 1/2" more to finally start getting a kickdown. Its shifting crisp but not hard and definitely hits kickdown now with a slight delay. Holds the gears nice and doesnt sound like its bogging down anymore. I also adjusted the kickdown screw to make sure it was correct. I used the method of pushing the gas pedal to the floor and then adjusting the linkages from there. It seems it was getting hung up on the shift linkage, so i adjusted that to move the block out of the way a little. Much better...actually feels like a V8 again.
 
I do still think I have the wrong carb to bell crank rod though. I think its the shorter 2bbl....I have to have it adjusted way past what the factory procedure says.
 
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