Heater valve - I guess it still looks stock?

Northcoast300h

Northcoast300h

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From my previous posts, you guys know I was having problems with the plastic Mopar heater valves starting to leak before 3yrs old on my 1970 300 Hurst. You guys also know I'm cheap, so I didn't want to buy a 3rd $120 valve. Maybe I have too much pressure in my cooling system which causes these to leak, I don't know. The problem was that almost all heater valves are vacuum close, plastic or just don't fit. The one I'm trying now is a $30 GM 1963-1986 steel one which is one of the few that is vacuum open. I had to buy a 90 degree heater hose since the pipe comes out the bottom, but I was lucky to find that a heater hose made for a Grand Caravan that fits. I also had to make a collar that screws onto the wheel well to hold it on. The car''s not going to win any awards but I try to make it look stock without breaking the bank.

Anyone see any problems doing this? I'll let you guys know if it doesn't last.

IMG_E4735.JPG
 
Looks good. There used to be some of the water valves which had a clip on top to hang from the fender-to-cowl brace, IIRC.
 
heheh, i dont think any one will notice the non stock heater valve, they will be focussing on your non stock air ducting ! :poke:
 
I certainly don't have a problem with it, as you can see. The correct OEM plastic/phenolic unit has been problematic since......1970. Or maybe it was 71 when they actually started leaking. The EVERCO replacement was what everyone did back then. And now. :)
IMG_0197.JPG
IMG_2052.JPG
Everco valve.JPG
 
Northcoast300h said:
From my previous posts, you guys know I was having problems with the plastic Mopar heater valves starting to leak before 3yrs old on my 1970 300 Hurst. You guys also know I'm cheap, so I didn't want to buy a 3rd $120 valve. Maybe I have too much pressure in my cooling system which causes these to leak, I don't know. The problem was that almost all heater valves are vacuum close, plastic or just don't fit. The one I'm trying now is a $30 GM 1963-1986 steel one which is one of the few that is vacuum open. I had to buy a 90 degree heater hose since the pipe comes out the bottom, but I was lucky to find that a heater hose made for a Grand Caravan that fits. I also had to make a collar that screws onto the wheel well to hold it on. The car''s not going to win any awards but I try to make it look stock without breaking the bank.

Anyone see any problems doing this? I'll let you guys know if it doesn't last.

View attachment 591485
Click to expand...

Were you buying NOS heater valves or the reproductions that kept failing?
 
FURYGT said:
Were you buying NOS heater valves or the reproductions that kept failing?
Click to expand...
That's a good question to ask. In my case, OEM factory installed valves and then normal replacement parts off dealer shelves in the 70s and 80s failed miserably. Along came the inexpensive and reliable Everhot/Evercool replacement item. IIRC, it was available by the mid-70s. I have a hazy memory of installing them while I worked at a Chrysler dealership while in college ('78?).....we knew not to use the OEM item.

I certainly wouldn't use an expensive NIB NOS item now unless it was for a trailer queen.

I have no knowledge of the repro item reliability and functionality.
 
Big_John said:
Somebody cleaver could gut one of those and hide a modern valve inside.

Just thinking out loud here....
Click to expand...
Or assemble it using RTV instead of that leeetle black gasket.

I recall doing a temporary "fix" to the OEM valves using BuleGoo or Permatex or whatever. The cracks or warps in the plastic didn't much care what fix I tried for very long. In retrospect, JB Weld might have worked if it would stick to whatever that thing was made of.
 
That's what I was wondering. If the failures were due to cracks in the material or a gasket failure as the gasket material was not robust enough to last a good while?

Back then, apparently Chrysler had issues with HVAC sealing, as evidenced by the sometimes persistent a/c case leaks, many of which went unnoticed for years, by observation. Helped along by the solid rubber/vinyl floor mats that kept moisture under them for extended periods of time. Even normal heater core leaks, too.

Back then, too, "plastic" had a poor reputation for long term use, so when the valves started to leak, then the metal ones were "the long term fix". Although the lack of an apparent vac reservoir made the vac bleed heater valve on my '70 Monaco vibrate at certain engine vac levels. When I figured out what it was and why, I'd either back out of the throttle a bit or move the lever a touch to quieten things down. Then came the cable-operated versions for 1972.

Usually, nobody wanted to try to rebuild a valve that was perceived not in the best orientations. Nor was silicone sealer technology what it now is, by observation. Or even basic gasketing technology, either, as evidenced by the heater case issues!

CBODY67
 
I'm pretty sure I used super glue on mine a couple times!
I bought a used metal replacement style one years ago, cleaned it up and it's been living with the turbo heat ever since.
 
I tried NOS, then repro. I tried gluing it, then I tried one steel one that hangs, all failed within 3 yrs. One lasted 2 months. I was going to buy the one Trace has pictured, however at $140, I just don't want to keep throwing money at this problem. So over the last 6yrs , I've spent around $400 so far to fix this, so I went with the cheapest $30 fix. I might do what big john said and gut the original to make it look stock, but I'm too lazy now. Maybe some other year, I'll get to it. Thanks for everyone's post.
 
Interesting thread. I'm thinking of buying this one. The Everco.

NOS MOPAR A/C WATER VALVE BY EVERCO 1969-71 C BODY 1971 B BODY | eBay

The one i have now is also vacuum actuated, a brand new piece from a newer Volkswagen Passat - plastic but over 3 years and 10k miles and still good. The thing is i only have 0/1 heating. I don't have any blend in between.

Does the water valve regulate the temperature, or is something else responsible for this ? You know, the "in between" cold and hot. If it's not the water valve, then something is wrong in my Newport. I can go from cold to the middle of the range, and nothing, when i go over to the other half then i get HOT. Driving the car this much, it's really annoying, i either freeze from AC or get full HOT.

Need some help pinpointing the problem. Thanks in advance
 
Unix said:
Interesting thread. I'm thinking of buying this one. The Everco.

NOS MOPAR A/C WATER VALVE BY EVERCO 1969-71 C BODY 1971 B BODY | eBay

The one i have now is also vacuum actuated, a brand new piece from a newer Volkswagen Passat - plastic but over 3 years and 10k miles and still good. The thing is i only have 0/1 heating. I don't have any blend in between.

Does the water valve regulate the temperature, or is something else responsible for this ? You know, the "in between" cold and hot. If it's not the water valve, then something is wrong in my Newport. I can go from cold to the middle of the range, and nothing, when i go over to the other half then i get HOT. Driving the car this much, it's really annoying, i either freeze from AC or get full HOT.

Need some help pinpointing the problem. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Here's another... Saves you $23. EVERCO WATER VALVE H1949 t284 | eBay

I have used the same valve in my '70 300 and it works well. I did one extra thing... I installed a small shut off valve in the hose to completely block the hot water from circulating. That keeps the AC just a little colder, or at least that's what I hope it does.
 
Northcoast300h said:
From my previous posts, you guys know I was having problems with the plastic Mopar heater valves starting to leak before 3yrs old on my 1970 300 Hurst. You guys also know I'm cheap, so I didn't want to buy a 3rd $120 valve. Maybe I have too much pressure in my cooling system which causes these to leak, I don't know. The problem was that almost all heater valves are vacuum close, plastic or just don't fit. The one I'm trying now is a $30 GM 1963-1986 steel one which is one of the few that is vacuum open. I had to buy a 90 degree heater hose since the pipe comes out the bottom, but I was lucky to find that a heater hose made for a Grand Caravan that fits. I also had to make a collar that screws onto the wheel well to hold it on. The car''s not going to win any awards but I try to make it look stock without breaking the bank.

Anyone see any problems doing this? I'll let you guys know if it doesn't last.

View attachment 591485
Click to expand...
Love the fresh air set up. Did you modify the snorkels?
Sorry for changing subject.
 
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