Hidden (Concealed) Headlight Doors Misaligned

amazinblue82

amazinblue82

Old Man with a Hat
FCBO Gold Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Messages
10,865
Reaction score
19,597
Location
United States
I want to try to adjust the hidden highlight doors on my 1978 Salon. I am assuming they can be adjusted since until a day ago they were fine for the four years I have been caretaker..

This first photo was taken one hour before the one below it. Spring startup, however the headlight doors did not completely close after actuation.

BEFORE
1683114795377.png


ONE HOUR LATER
1682972748042-png.png


Next two ARE from my car, specifically where torsion rod connects to each door.

I was hoping that "clip" looking "V" shaped thing on each door could be how adjustments/torsion rod removal are made?

They both have slightly different orientations yet the doors are both in the exact observable misaligned position (won't close completely). Wishful thinking maybe they can be adjusted?
Sport fury.png


There is a "square" shaped, metal bar (the "torsion rod") that runs thru the motor and operates both doors together. Mine just apparently started to NOT rotate sufficiently to completely close the the doors.

Pictures below are NOT from my car but represents the style/look on the setup.
1683135204968.png


There are a few of threads here but I was not able to find an answer to whether there is a adjustment technique.

hidden headlight gears....info, Headlight Relays with Hidden Headlights, 1969 Headlight Door Motor

Surely Chrysler would have contemplated the need to adjust the doors WITHOUT having to replace a motor/gear INSIDE the motor or something, yes?

Does anyone know whether the doors can be adjusted? Related, does anyone have a shop manual reference diagram/instruction you could post?

Thanks anyone/everyone interested in advance for any help.
 
Last edited:
My car is 10 years older than yours, but I aligned my headlight doors by adjusting the stopper and twisting the torsion bar. Mine just didn't close far enough, but by twisting the torsion bar I was able to get them to close tighter.
 
Two interesting sources.

Headlight motor

Repair and General Information About Your Imperial's Headlight Door Motors

20190121_141706-jpg.jpg


excerpt from Imp pages about a 1974 headlight door issue.

Question from Zack (1974):

On my 74 LeBaron, the right headlight door shuts too tight and the left one doesn't shut enough. Every now and then, the doors will not open when I turn the lights on because the door on the right is so tight it's jamming the motor. I have to open the hood and turn the manual crank slightly so it opens the doors. Anyway, I was wondering if there is a way to adjust the tension of the motor or the doors so it will not jam anymore.

Reply From Brad:

This is a tricky one. As far as I know, there are few adjustments on the doors. There is a long "torsion bar" that runs through the motor in the center and out to each door, on either side. There should be sufficient tension on the doors to keep them open or closed (without flapping around) but they shouldn't be so tight they jam. Is the header panel on the car out of alignment, causing the jamming? The header panel is VERY adjustable by its many bolts and support points. I suppose there is a chance the torsion bar is twisted, thus creating a problem such as you describe but I have tried to twist them, unsuccessfully, being that they are spring steel. If I were you, I would take the two grille halves out and take that torsion bar out and inspect it for damage and correct installation. The grilles are quite easy to remove from the rear side of the header panel. They will have either 4 or 5 nuts holding in each half.
Many people, including the B-body folks using a similar, NON-vacuum set up like the C's, have wrestled with door alignment. Problems are a mix of electrical & mechanical.

Its rather confusing to me -- conversations jump around from topic to topic -- with NO experience with this problem before yesterday. My "shade-tree" intuition tells me a manual adjustment must be possible and preferred, of course, to ANY other kind of intervention into this thing.

In that vein, a new term that comes up is a "manual adjustment knob" that I presume is ON the motor. The context is positioning this knob properly when one replaces the motor.

Sport fury.png


Anyway, I draw an interference, perhaps incorrectly, that this device can be used to correct door mi-saligments NOT caused by permanent damage/interferences in the actuation system.

somebody has ONE of these from 1978 or some other year sharing the motor/door system design, that must answer this clearly for me an ANYONE interested I hope.

1683205443242.png
 
Last edited:
Just a random thought... Since it's not quite closing all the way, and the bars do act as a spring to protect the drive... Would a little grease in the right spots help?

If nothing else, disconnect the rod and see if it closes all the way by hand.

The "adjustment knob" doesn't adjust. It allows you to open/close the doors by hand. You could still give it a twist and see if it closes more... In which case, those motors aren't that bad to take apart. The problem I've seen in working motors (where the gears and contacts are good) is the bottom bushing gets dry and needs greasing. I had an issue with that with my car with its supposed rebuilt motor. The motor was filled with sludge from the sandblaster (yea, that kind of rebuild) and years of crud. An hours time disassembling/ cleaning/ greasing/ assembly made all the difference in the world.
 
Big_John said:
Just a random thought... Since it's not quite closing all the way, and the bars do act as a spring to protect the drive... Would a little grease in the right spots help?

If nothing else, disconnect the rod and see if it closes all the way by hand.

The "adjustment knob" doesn't adjust. It allows you to open/close the doors by hand. You could still give it a twist and see if it closes more... In which case, those motors aren't that bad to take apart. The problem I've seen in working motors (where the gears and contacts are good) is the bottom bushing gets dry and needs greasing. I had an issue with that with my car with its supposed rebuilt motor. The motor was filled with sludge from the sandblaster (yea, that kind of rebuild) and years of crud. An hours time disassembling/ cleaning/ greasing/ assembly made all the difference in the world.
Click to expand...
that makes sense that a manual way to open the doors was designed in. otherwise, no headlights and that's a safety issue.

Thanks john. sorry to bother you.

:thumbsup:
 
thethee said:
There's a 74 parts catalog on mymopar.com but after looking through it, it appears to be no help at all
Click to expand...

I went to the 1970 Charger manual which uses a similar system - single motor/torsion rod set up. Answer(s) may be there but I gotta study it.

Still gives me hope that a C-body manual would give THE factory answer for our cars. @Big_John and @marko are right on the mark with their guidance.


1683149305038.png

1683149380432.png



1683149509436.png
 
THe 1970 Chrysler Manual is there. The text resembles the 1970 Charger's, with differences in the names/design features of specific carline parts.

I put a red arrow on that "V" clip that's on my 1978. Its talked about when removing torsion bar FROM the doors. It has specifc instructions for the 300 vs. Imperial as well.

If there is anything MORE than trying what @Big_John said, I am not as brave as @marko to take on R&R of torsion rod without help.

I'll try it (john's suggestion in #8) this/next weekend and see/report results.
Sport fury.png


1683150616692.png


1683150768102.png
 
Last edited:
bronze turbine said:
My car is 10 years older than yours, but I aligned my headlight doors by adjusting the stopper and twisting the torsion bar. Mine just didn't close far enough, but by twisting the torsion bar I was able to get them to close tighter.
Click to expand...
I will just add that on one of my 1973 Dodge Monacos I too had this problem and the only way I too solved it was to bend the torsion bar just a little more to get the doors to close fully. It worked just fine thereafter. Put open end wrenches (vice grips would work fine too) on it in two spots and twisted it just a little more and problem solved (I didn't forget because I tried everything else possible and was frustrated since nothing else worked). Have a nice day!

100_7315-jpg.jpg
 
Last edited:
saforwardlook said:
I will just add that on one of my 1973 Dodge Monacos I too had this problem and the only way I too solved it was to bend the torsion bar just a little more to get the doors to close fully. It worked just fine thereafter. Put open end wrenches (vice grips would work fine too) on it in two spots and twisted it just a little more and problem solved (I didn't forget because I tried everything else possible and was frustrated since nothing else worked). Have a nice day!

View attachment 595066
Click to expand...

thanks for weighing in chief! appreciate the practical experience in solving the problem you encountered.
 
@amazinblue82 my FSM doesn't show any adjustments in the mechanism, other than internal adjustments in the motor. But I don't think that would be the issue here. More likely some play in the linkage.

Maybe check the bushings on the headlight doors also? Other than that I'm liking the earlier suggestion of simply twisting the torsion bar itself.
 
thethee said:
@amazinblue82 my FSM doesn't show any adjustments in the mechanism, other than internal adjustments in the motor. But I don't think that would be the issue here. More likely some play in the linkage.

Maybe check the bushings on the headlight doors also? Other than that I'm liking the earlier suggestion of simply twisting the torsion bar itself.
Click to expand...
excellent contribution. Many thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ayilar
NOT MINE 1970 Chrysler Newport convertible in South Dakota (blue now beige)
2
Replies
22
Views
3K
mopar preferred
mopar preferred
S
Hidden headlight motor differences?!
Replies
9
Views
1K
Stargazer
S
marty mopar
NOT MINE 1956 Chrysler New Yorker 4-door Sedan in New Raymer, CO - $19,500 (2 cars for the price of one)
Replies
0
Views
524
marty mopar
marty mopar
jet1969
1971 Imperial 2 door restauration
2 3
Replies
54
Views
5K
Big_John
Big_John
S
Another “hidden headlight switch plate” question.
Replies
5
Views
996
Stargazer
S
Back
Top