jct
Senior Member
working on fixing one thing and find this a tad bit melted
The resistors have overheated. Replace them, and repair the connectors before you do anything with the blower motor. Also check your switch, if there are burn marks replace it also.it's a slabbie.
cleaned the resistor a lil bit and went to the fuse panel have no idea how it got cruddy, wire bushed it and applied no-ox-id
it's the from the vacuum switch/time delay abd the med fan setting
already took out my old glove box out fell apart into many pieces that was hacked back together.
i have been noticing a good draw on my system when i have the heater on at idle, will check out the blower motor the next chance i can get
Chrysler blower motors continue to work and sometimes even make a little more noise as they age, but start drawing increasingly large amounts of current that the wiring/connectors can't handle - and you might not even be aware of it. Although replacing the blower motor in a fuselage at least is a bit of a pain since you have to remove the passenger side inner fender, it is worth doing to avoid melted terminals and an eventual problem with the wiring, bulkhead connector, etc. and even an eventual fire (you should be sensitive to a burning plastic smell, and you get a whiff of such, fix it now rather than later). I get the under $50 replacement Bosch replacement motors to power the blower rather than risk using an original motor when restoring my cars (and Bosch because they usually get the inlet fitting right compared to the other options).
X2......?Can you explain where one would find a Bosch blower motor for a 1972 or 1973 Fusie? Do you have a part number or a place online to find the part number?
X2......?
Just because it works doesn't mean it isn't drawing too much current.checked out and tested the blower motor today, it appears to be fine for now
just stuck 12 volts to it at the motor, the connectors on it looked fine and not melted.
haven't checked voltage draw yet