How much to pay for a factory AC setup - '68 300

[hotdog647]

I have most of the 68 system still here including the under box unit, the only part missing is the pipework that laid across the engine as another member here bought that. $100 and its all yours, oh and when I pulled it apart the gas still hissed a little. I'm in NC.

Wolfen if OP doesn't want the box/pipe/work/etc. put me next in line. PM sent

Wolfen, No pm space.

 

[Wollfen]

Wolfen if OP doesn't want the box/pipe/work/etc. put me next in line. PM sent

Wolfen, No pm space.

Cleared some of my box

 

[Wollfen]

I will get all the parts out tomorrow and take pictures and post them

 

[300Nutter]

...

The floor vent system works very well, and when you combine that with the wing vent windows, the car actually stays pretty cool as long as you're moving.

..

"flow through" or was it "flow thru" ventilation?

At one time, I think Chrysler advertized how well the floor and wing vents worked as a "feature".

When I was growing up, we called it "2-40" AC or "4-40" AC, depending on how many windows the car had.

 

[300Nutter]

In my experience, you're looking at $1000 to $1200 or so. If you do the work yourself. I won't lie. It's a big project for anyone who's never done one before. It's a big project for someone who has, too.

I've nerver done an AC restore without all the parts being there, so I can only imagine what it would take.

Thankfully, for our modern drivers, I have an excellent AC tech who only charges about $45 an hour plus wholesale parts. When he retires, dont know what I will do. Move to Alaska?

 

[Big_John]

"flow through" or was it "flow thru" ventilation?

At one time, I think Chrysler advertized how well the floor and wing vents worked as a "feature".

When I was growing up, we called it "2-40" AC or "4-40" AC, depending on how many windows the car had.

Flow Thru and it was a GM advertising term. They had vents in the door frames etc.

 

[hotdog647]

Didn't Mopar use something like Flo-through ventilation when they went with ventless windows to exchange air?

 

[300Nutter]

In '67 Chrysler was advertising "Flow-Through" ventilation, that allowed you to get air through without having a window or vent open.

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/230/page13.htm

But I know those floor vents worked pretty well in the older C bodies I've ridden in, too.

Guess there wasn't a marketing name for it, but unless it was a very hot day, they would at least get some air moving and cool things off in a hurry...even in a non-AC car. On a cold day, if those vents are open, it will freeze you.

 

[barsteel]

Wollfen -

Can you give me an idea of the shipping cost to 06615?

Just recovering from HD crash, haven't been on line since Sunday.

Thanks...

Chris

I have most of the 68 system still here including the under box unit, the only part missing is the pipework that laid across the engine as another member here bought that. $100 and its all yours, oh and when I pulled it apart the gas still hissed a little. I'm in NC.

 

[Wollfen]

Wollfen -

Can you give me an idea of the shipping cost to 06615?

Just recovering from HD crash, haven't been on line since Sunday.

Thanks...

Chris

Oh crap, sorry Chris I sold the under dash box today. Umm I still have the engine bay parts, here is a picture if that's of any help. One pipe is missing that travels across the engine. It is L shaped, maybe Detmatt has it?

 

[BillGrissom]

I agree w/ a newer Sanden compressor, using Bouchillon brackets (~$150). Every mod car you see at shows uses a Sanden. I have bought them for $50 new on ebay (winter) and just saw a new one sell for $85. I would have grabbed it at the starting $40, though I have enough for all my 60's cars now. Aluminum parallel-flow evaporators also boost efficiency and save much weight. I bought an AC crimper so I can make hoses cheap and easy. I recently replaced the old hoses in my 85 M-B. I will put an under-dash evaporator in my old Mopars. You are ahead w/ the factory AC box. Shouldn't be hard to install a modern alum evaporator (ebay) in your box, by adding sheet-metal plates. Might need to silver solder extension tubes thru the firewall, or you can get fittings to go thru (ebay, for rodders). O-ring fittings are easiest to use today. Don't fear removing the climate box. I can remove the non-AC box in my 65 Newport in 20 minutes. I removed the AC box in my 69 Dart fairly easy too, and long ago when I was a dumb kid. So, unless yours is much different, don't fear the job.

 

[barsteel]

Wollfen -

Damn...I always seem to lose out .

I'm going to have to do some research to see if I can find the missing pieces. I'm leaving for vacation tomorrow, so I don't know if I'll be able to look into it till next week.

FWIW, I'm interested if I can find the other parts that I need...

Chris

 

[hotdog647]

So, this is for C body New Yorkers etc. I'm an A/C and heat dummy with only basic A/C education. Would it be better to use a newer type large A/C Condenser and sanden and keep the stock box evaporator? Or just drop in a new evporator assembly=assuming both operate as designed.

 

[BillGrissom]

hotdog647 is suggesting what most of us are. The under-hood stuff is easy plus more efficieint w/ modern parts, ~$300 if you shop around and make your own hoses. The cabin part would be easy had the PO not mangled the evaporator tubes. Those could be repaired or a new, more efficient evaporator installed in the existing box. Hot rodders do this stuff everday, just visit at any car show and ask questions politely. ebay makes it easy to source parts.