Crack a rear bleeder and see if it releases.Uncross your fingers.
Went for test drive, things are getting worse. Rear brakes are staying loaded, smoking on return to garage after 20 min drive. wheels off ground I can barely turn. loosened master to see if I was as stupid as I am starting to feel. no difference. Loosened rear brake line at master to see if it was holding pressure. no change. tried parking brake, locks tight, released parking brake, very tight wheels.
Still hard pedal.
I took temps when I returned, right rear 205 deg, left rear 195 deg. Fronts 150, all temps taken between lug nuts on wheel.
I didn't think the crack in hose was going to be the cause.
I'm looking at doing the brakes on the '73 as well, which supplier did you get the parts from?, did you have to quote specific part numbers or just year/make of vehicle? Thanks.Hello, I think I need some input or knowledge help with the brake problem on my Imperial.
1973 Imperial, New Raybestos pads and shoes, rebuilt and restored booster, new master cylinder, then back to the original master, new rear wheel cylinders, new flex lines front rear, all new brake hardware in drums, new NOS calipers.
I have had a hard pedal with slow stop since I brought Tux home. I pulled the booster and had it rebuilt, it failed booster test with vacuum and had plenty of old brake fluid crystallized inside. Also had booster replated.
Installed booster but bad winter, held off on road test till April. Once road tested I still had a hard pedal, so I thought it might be a faulty new offshore master cylinder I had installed with booster. replaced with good working Chrysler master from Imperial.
Still hard slow stopping.
Replaced front calipers that I rebuilt earlier with NOS calipers, I was thinking maybe my old calipers were hanging up.
Still hard pedal and slow stop.
I replaced the pads and shoes with new wheel cylinders and all drum hardware.
Same feel, this time I feel the pads grabbing better, car stops straight as it always has, but it is still a hard pedal slow stop. While sitting at a light waiting for change, the pedal almost feels as if its starting to push back.
I took Imperial out for a 40 min drive on two lane, urban main and side streets.
As I was on the return run I could feel pulsing brake grab on side streets. Not enough to stop the car, but enough to create a pulse slowing pulse in the car. This is new, but may be because new pads and shoes grab better the the asbestos.
Could this be the combination/proportioning valve?
Could the metering valve be stuck?
I have not had this problem before, all the cars I have done over the years, I have had symptoms like this but it was booster, seized calipers, etc...
Running out of time for the big Carlisle drive.
Extra input. Brakes get harder after first few stops, hard from start. I have been bleeding brakes with hose into jug of brake fluid with steading push of pedal until no air and pedal hard.
Thinking I might try another master.
I think I might have found the cause. I have not repaired it yet, but I think it might be the cast iron combination valve. I purchased a rebuild kit for the valve, I plan to do it now that the show season is winding down and when I get TB up to sale condition.Does this mean you finally found the problem?
As far as pad and shoe material-please stop the old thinking that asbestos materials are superior to today's modern materials-that is complete hogwash. Carbon metallic is the best choice. Drum brake cars stop like disc brake cars with the proper materials! Prove me wrong- you can't and no one will try it because they will find out i am correct. lol You can't make this $%@# up
The rear shoes need to be placed in the drum, pushed against the drum and a feeler gauge used to see how much difference there is between the arc of the shoe and the arc of the drum. If this is not done the shoe will never fully cantact the drum! That's a geometry thing. I forgot what the rule of thumb was for the gap distance. Call a real Clutch & brake company who has the tools to measure and arc the shoes to match the drum and ask what the spec is. I took Automotive Braking Systems class 101 and 201 in technical college college and i paid attention. HA!