Hey there everyone, hope yall are doing well! So i have this weird situation happening. Under starting and moderate acceleration i started to hear this metallica type clicking sound so i pull the Fury into the garage and started to mess with it to troubleshoot where the noise was coming from. BTW it is a 1965 Fury with the 318 poly. Anyway i narrowed it down to the ignition coil which is brand new. I took the center wire off the coil and dizzy and started to crank the car over and noticed arcing from the center of the coil to the negative post on the coil. I had one of my boys crank it over while i watched, anyway they went back inside and i decided to hook up my bump starter when i crank it with thati get no clicking from the coil or arcing.Im kind of at a loss here and have no idea why it would be doing that, any help is much appreciated!
ignition coil click?
- Thread starter Rooster34
- Start date
69PHOENIX
Active Member
G'Day I would Consider That a "Faulty" Coil.
It Should NOT be Arching.
However If You are Running a High Energy System I can Understand.
About 40 Yrs Ago I was Involved in the Supply & Fitting of CDI Systems.
We Experienced this Problem fairly Often.
You will Notice that Most of the Better "Super" Coils have a Much Wider Spacing of the Connections & Output.
If it's Arching with the Lead in Place I'd return it to the Place of Purchase & see if you can Upgrade.
Failing That, Check carefully for Cracks or Tracking between the Output & Post.
Clean Carefully & Hope for the Best,
Regards Tony.M
It Should NOT be Arching.
However If You are Running a High Energy System I can Understand.
About 40 Yrs Ago I was Involved in the Supply & Fitting of CDI Systems.
We Experienced this Problem fairly Often.
You will Notice that Most of the Better "Super" Coils have a Much Wider Spacing of the Connections & Output.
If it's Arching with the Lead in Place I'd return it to the Place of Purchase & see if you can Upgrade.
Failing That, Check carefully for Cracks or Tracking between the Output & Post.
Clean Carefully & Hope for the Best,
Regards Tony.M
69PHOENIX
Active Member
O.K.
You will Get a Better Result with a Better Coil, But Your Leads, Cap Etc. Need to be in Top Condition. (It All Costs Money)
Also DON"T Play with the Leads, the Bite of a Normal 12V System is Painful Enough.
I Plan on Running One of the Units We Made Back Then with 8MM Leads, An Acel Coil Etc.
I'm Not Up with All the Latest Gear so Someone Else will Need to Help You.
Anyway All the Best.
Tony.M
You will Get a Better Result with a Better Coil, But Your Leads, Cap Etc. Need to be in Top Condition. (It All Costs Money)
Also DON"T Play with the Leads, the Bite of a Normal 12V System is Painful Enough.
I Plan on Running One of the Units We Made Back Then with 8MM Leads, An Acel Coil Etc.
I'm Not Up with All the Latest Gear so Someone Else will Need to Help You.
Anyway All the Best.
Tony.M
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
That's scary. I can see that the current would jump to the nearest ground, which would be coil negative. Hope it didn't damage the magnetic pickup on your distributor (if converted to electronic ignition).
Last edited:
69PHOENIX
Active Member
N.B.
I Assumed a 65 Fury would be Running Points.
When did Chrysler go Electronic in the States?
Here in the Mystical Land of OZ We Didn't see Electronics till the 70's.
None of that Fancy Stuff for Us Yokels LOL.
All the Best.
Tony.M
I Assumed a 65 Fury would be Running Points.
When did Chrysler go Electronic in the States?
Here in the Mystical Land of OZ We Didn't see Electronics till the 70's.
None of that Fancy Stuff for Us Yokels LOL.
All the Best.
Tony.M
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
As a sanity check, plug your coil lead back into your distributor, then watch for if the super coil arcs to the ground terminal in any way. It might be a case of poor insulation and high voltage seeking the nearest ground. I would get a different coil. Accel makes a big yellow monster of one which I used yrs ago w my NYer and a 440.
thethee
Senior Member
Sorry but I'm pretty sure that if you unplug the center wire at the coil and crank the engine, the arcing you are seeing is only logical? The coil is producing massive voltages and if you remove all resistance in its path it's just gonna jump to the nearest ground and big voltage can jump big gaps.
Not saying your coil isn't the problem, but I'm sure the arcing isn't.
Not saying your coil isn't the problem, but I'm sure the arcing isn't.
Knebel
Senior Member
The clicking could be the coil arching. Put a little dieelectric grease in the boot and maybe on the terminals and see if that helps?
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
As a rule, kilovolt potential can arc through dry air with a dielectric breakdown voltage of about 1kV/mm. To wit, 25kV can jump about an inch. Now, to obtain an arc from say, a 40kV coil terminal, some pointed source within the HV (distributor wire) terminal would have to be within 40 mm of a ground. THEN, VOILA! That's why I advised capping the coil with the proper wire at least. IFF he gets an arc after taking that measure, then I'd look for a crack in the plastic or other insulating surface near the HV connection. One could probably use rubber tape to patch such a crack, while awaiting the arrival of a replacement of course.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
hi Tony
Electronic ignition came in 1972-3 to Chrysler in the USA.
Chrysler Electronic Ignition
Somehow I got it into my head that we were talking about a car that was being converted to electronic ignition.
Unless @Rooster34 has converted to electronic ignition, his system would be points. I still think current coming to the distributor from both directions would not be helpful to the contacts in the distributor or the condenser, if we have a points ignition. Rooster could tell us that.
Sorry for the misleading comment. Cheers! Ben
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Cool! I run breaker point ignitions on all my pre-1972 rides. Its a major reason I PREFER the older stuff. Get a little rubber boot, like the sort used to close a vacuum port, dab some dielectric grease into it, and stick it on your negative coil terminal. THAT will block any stray kilovolt arc seeking it. Then wait until dark, crank your engine up and watch for any other possible places an arc might ground to. If you don't see or hear any, consider the Problem Solved, and roll on.
If you DO see an arc from some point on your coil, tape it over or just replace the coil if the case is compromised.
I prefer the older stuff as well! And I did put my older coil on and it seems to have subsided but still clicks on start up and sometime when driving so, I have to wait until it gets dark out I'll also put some dielectric on the negative coil terminal as you suggest. I'm thinking one of my wires may be compromised
volksworld
Active Member
electricity takes the path of least resistance...so if you have some old carbon core wires on there its possible the resistance is too high...or even excessive plug gaps or badly corroded distributor cap terminals
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Shouldn't need to worry about the coil at all now, if you changed it. DO look over those plug wires! If you're running a breaker point setup, get some 7mm copper core wire, terminals and a good crimper. I do my own plug wires in Packard 440. There are a few other good varieties of actual copper wire for plugs but use it ONLY for older, relative low voltage systems. Over 30~35 kV, one needs a little fancier conductor packaging as MAGNETIC fronts become the means for conveying potential. Thus all the suppressor cable tech since the late 1960s....
'66 Fury I
Active Member
Years ago, after chasing ignition problems and being frusterated, I learned that when flash-over occurs, it creates carbon tracks. The tracks form on the inside of the boot and the outside of the component it is covering. Replacing one half of the pair results in a new carbon track on the new part. Lindsay
Similar threads
